Help! Looking for a Superchip program for a Vortech SC
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Help! Looking for a Superchip program for a Vortech SC As in the title: I need the program loaded by the Superchip programmer when you buy a complete Vortech kit.
It sould be for a M6, if possible for a 98.
If possible as a LS1Edit file (or HPT).
My SC is a couple of years old: at that time my tranny was an A4 and Vortech sent a program for an automatic car.
I now have a manual transmission and I'd like to see if they load a different program for a M6.
I hope someone can help
Thank you - Stefano
It sould be for a M6, if possible for a 98.
If possible as a LS1Edit file (or HPT).
My SC is a couple of years old: at that time my tranny was an A4 and Vortech sent a program for an automatic car.
I now have a manual transmission and I'd like to see if they load a different program for a M6.
I hope someone can help
Thank you - Stefano
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the conversion itself wasn't that bad: there is a good description in the Manual Section (sticky).
The big mess was with the Spec clutch I ordered at the same time with the swap kit: the flywheel was warped and the pressure plate unbalanced. Result: a lot of vibrations and chattering! They claimed it was an installation issue. At the end I installed the stock clutch that went with the tranny (probably a 2002 = Z06): that solved the problem.
It's still holding grate, also with the blower! But I don't drag race either
Are you thinking about a swap?
Let me know if you need help...
The big mess was with the Spec clutch I ordered at the same time with the swap kit: the flywheel was warped and the pressure plate unbalanced. Result: a lot of vibrations and chattering! They claimed it was an installation issue. At the end I installed the stock clutch that went with the tranny (probably a 2002 = Z06): that solved the problem.
It's still holding grate, also with the blower! But I don't drag race either
Are you thinking about a swap?
Let me know if you need help...
not swapping anytime soon, but I would like to have a 6 sp just for the fun factor, i'm sure that will make the car even more fun to drive.
please keep your notes on the conversion.
please keep your notes on the conversion.
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Car is fun to drive, also because of the direct link engine-wheels (I hate converters!)
On the other hand you can't drive as easy as with the A4: have a smoke, eat an icecream, have a phone call and shift at the same time
Have you installed the original Vortech program? Or is it a custom tune?
From the original Vortech (Superchip) tune I kept only few tables: the IFR was way out, PE, weird tranny settings...
I kept the timing table and some other minor stuff.
Do you have some pics of your setup? Mine are on my homepage.
On the other hand you can't drive as easy as with the A4: have a smoke, eat an icecream, have a phone call and shift at the same time
Have you installed the original Vortech program? Or is it a custom tune?
From the original Vortech (Superchip) tune I kept only few tables: the IFR was way out, PE, weird tranny settings...
I kept the timing table and some other minor stuff.
Do you have some pics of your setup? Mine are on my homepage.
I've posted pics of my setup here, I'll find them and post em up.
I don't like a mail order tune so when the car was originally put together we used ls1edit. I modded that tune with EFI live. then we put a forged bottom end in and cam and unfortunately it was retuned with ls1edit. I need to get me my own laptop and EFI live to fine tune cause the car has plenty more in it and the part throttle tune and hot start sucks.
I miss having a stick car, plus I want the better economy. Thing is the car will suck at launching that's the biggest reason I love my automatic, I can really rape from a dig.
I don't like a mail order tune so when the car was originally put together we used ls1edit. I modded that tune with EFI live. then we put a forged bottom end in and cam and unfortunately it was retuned with ls1edit. I need to get me my own laptop and EFI live to fine tune cause the car has plenty more in it and the part throttle tune and hot start sucks.
I miss having a stick car, plus I want the better economy. Thing is the car will suck at launching that's the biggest reason I love my automatic, I can really rape from a dig.
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Ahhh! I love you rims!! Really like them!
Also the filter... is there any advantege? Does it breathe better than the stocker? Are you using a K&N element?
I adapted a FIPK but later on I went back to the stock filter because the FIPK picks up too much hot air from the engine bay
What kind of BOV is that? I installed an updated Bosch model (part number ending with 108). It has a stronger spring and doesn't make the usual farting sound. But it closes at the wrong moment (too soon) and the engine gets boosted at too low rpm causing KR. So I went back to the original supplied by Vortech (xxx 102).
Also the filter... is there any advantege? Does it breathe better than the stocker? Are you using a K&N element?
I adapted a FIPK but later on I went back to the stock filter because the FIPK picks up too much hot air from the engine bay
What kind of BOV is that? I installed an updated Bosch model (part number ending with 108). It has a stronger spring and doesn't make the usual farting sound. But it closes at the wrong moment (too soon) and the engine gets boosted at too low rpm causing KR. So I went back to the original supplied by Vortech (xxx 102).
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Verdad Gallardo the air lid provides a straighter shot to the blower which I know helps but I don't have it documented plus it cleans up the engine bay a little bit.
I forgot what bypass valve that is, I just wanted a chrome one to go along with the rest of the polished bling I have. It doesn't make any noise.
I use the Fast Toys Ram Air to pick up cold air from underneath. Works good and the car pulls harder and harder as the rpms go up.
I do run a Holley Air Filter the washable kind.
How bout some pics of your ride?
I forgot what bypass valve that is, I just wanted a chrome one to go along with the rest of the polished bling I have. It doesn't make any noise.
I use the Fast Toys Ram Air to pick up cold air from underneath. Works good and the car pulls harder and harder as the rpms go up.
I do run a Holley Air Filter the washable kind.
How bout some pics of your ride?
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Here they are!
this during the tranny swap
SC oil filter (Amsoil bypass filter) - it allows a longer oil change interval
WI details
homemade boost + fuel gauge
this during the tranny swap
SC oil filter (Amsoil bypass filter) - it allows a longer oil change interval
WI details
homemade boost + fuel gauge
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This is how the intake temp dropped on the dyno (in Celsius).
Green is without WI... this alone gave me 30 additional RWHP and 15 lb in.
AFR is set at 12.5 with gas alone, then I spray 5 GPH 50% ethanol which gives me about 12 : 1
No KR, no problems.
Green is without WI... this alone gave me 30 additional RWHP and 15 lb in.
AFR is set at 12.5 with gas alone, then I spray 5 GPH 50% ethanol which gives me about 12 : 1
No KR, no problems.
which kit did you end up using? I like that you did't have to tap into the windshield washer fluid. I'm gonna have to check that meth kit out, so does it come on automatically after a certain throttle position or rpm?
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This is 100% homemade. I used industrial components: stronger but unfortunately much more expensive than automotive parts.
I'm actually using the windshield tank: if you look at the pics you will see a "level switch" in the right side of the tank. It's to signal low level.
The fluid is distilled water, lab grade ethanol and some concetrate soap (those to dilute 1:100 with water, normally used for the windshield).
The cooling effect is amazing and it cleans the windshield like no other product
Some details:
The pump is a magnet driven gear pump.
The pump controller is fully programmable pressure switch: you can choose ON and OFF every 0.1 PSI, has a ON and an OFF delay in 0.1 seconds.
On the gauge a green LED signals if the pump is ON and if it's building enough pressure.
The system kicks in at a certain manifold pressure (2 PSI) and stops at 0.5 PSI with a delay of 0.2 seconds.
For this kind of boost it's OK, for more PSI it would be better a MAF or a MAP controlled system: something that injects more alcohol with more air.
On the other hand an on and off system is simpler and less prone to brake...
PCV and blow-by catchcans were necessary in my case... do you have something similar?
In one of your pics I think to see a fuel pressure regulator with a pressure sensor.. right? Any advantage? Do you have a modified fuel system with 100% fuel return?
I'm actually using the windshield tank: if you look at the pics you will see a "level switch" in the right side of the tank. It's to signal low level.
The fluid is distilled water, lab grade ethanol and some concetrate soap (those to dilute 1:100 with water, normally used for the windshield).
The cooling effect is amazing and it cleans the windshield like no other product
Some details:
The pump is a magnet driven gear pump.
The pump controller is fully programmable pressure switch: you can choose ON and OFF every 0.1 PSI, has a ON and an OFF delay in 0.1 seconds.
On the gauge a green LED signals if the pump is ON and if it's building enough pressure.
The system kicks in at a certain manifold pressure (2 PSI) and stops at 0.5 PSI with a delay of 0.2 seconds.
For this kind of boost it's OK, for more PSI it would be better a MAF or a MAP controlled system: something that injects more alcohol with more air.
On the other hand an on and off system is simpler and less prone to brake...
PCV and blow-by catchcans were necessary in my case... do you have something similar?
In one of your pics I think to see a fuel pressure regulator with a pressure sensor.. right? Any advantage? Do you have a modified fuel system with 100% fuel return?
good engineering!! Were you having blowby issues? I have a ls6 pcv system and no catchcan. No blowby issues here.
I do have a Aeromotive regulator with a return line. With the amount of power I'm starting to push I needed to make sure my fuel pressure stays up. The sensor you see is for my fuel pressure gauge I have on the A pillar. I'm always keeping an eye on that.
Are you planning on upping the boost any to maybe 7-8 lbs? forged bottom end in your future?
I do have a Aeromotive regulator with a return line. With the amount of power I'm starting to push I needed to make sure my fuel pressure stays up. The sensor you see is for my fuel pressure gauge I have on the A pillar. I'm always keeping an eye on that.
Are you planning on upping the boost any to maybe 7-8 lbs? forged bottom end in your future?
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Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
good engineering!!
I build chemical plants for living... guess where I have the WI components from?
Were you having blowby issues? I have a ls6 pcv system and no catchcan. No blowby issues here.
The little catchcan is between the valvecover and the blower inlet: somehow there was a little amount of oil going back that way (probably under boost).
There was some oil before and after the blower and I wanted to know if the impeller seal was broken... since I have the catchcan it's all clean, no more oil.
Are you planning on upping the boost any to maybe 7-8 lbs? forged bottom end in your future?
But blowing this car did cost me already a lot:
SC kit
Smoked automatic tranny (can't hold the power)
M6 conversion
Spec clutch (for nothing, a real POS, removed after 500 miles)
new Yukon gears to accomodate the M6 ratio (for nothing, another POS, pinion shaft was out of specs and the bearing did spin on the shaft)
New (occasion) rear end
WI
...
With more boost I'm gonna need a new (this time serious) clutch, a stronger rear end (12 bolts), my convertible body will need a reinforcement and my 65'000 miles engine won't survive that.
Talking about... maybe an additional $6000?
Better I keep it like that!
And you? Are you planning more boost?
I think its really cool when members here engineer their own stuff.
As for me with more boost the answer is YES! Well right now in the hot weather my car is making 11 lbs but when it was cooler it was reaching 13.
I need a built trans and rear too. I think the rear will last as long as i don't dead hook but I know the trans won't hold up with the extra power I have now. I try to drive it conservatively. I don't like breaking parts and having to being forced to upgrade. Once I secure a new position I will send the trans out to get built. i was thinking of running a bigger trans cooler possibly with a fan too along with a bigger pan to keep the temps down, in addition I want to get the converter tightened up a little and built stronger to hold the future power I plan to make.
my goal with the car and this is no time soon is to have the Vortech YSi blower RMCR conversion along with nitrous. I want the car to make 900 rear wheel effortlessly. I want the car to be stupid fast and to scare me, lol. My car is mainly a street/show car I don't rag on it at the strip. i'd like to get another ride for that.
(have my eyes on a 67 Camaro with a 565 ci BBC with a big shot of NOS for that )
As for me with more boost the answer is YES! Well right now in the hot weather my car is making 11 lbs but when it was cooler it was reaching 13.
I need a built trans and rear too. I think the rear will last as long as i don't dead hook but I know the trans won't hold up with the extra power I have now. I try to drive it conservatively. I don't like breaking parts and having to being forced to upgrade. Once I secure a new position I will send the trans out to get built. i was thinking of running a bigger trans cooler possibly with a fan too along with a bigger pan to keep the temps down, in addition I want to get the converter tightened up a little and built stronger to hold the future power I plan to make.
my goal with the car and this is no time soon is to have the Vortech YSi blower RMCR conversion along with nitrous. I want the car to make 900 rear wheel effortlessly. I want the car to be stupid fast and to scare me, lol. My car is mainly a street/show car I don't rag on it at the strip. i'd like to get another ride for that.
(have my eyes on a 67 Camaro with a 565 ci BBC with a big shot of NOS for that
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Vortech YSi blower RMCR conversion? what is this?
BLower + nitro... is it "healty"? Pretty scary to me!
Good luck for the 900 HP!! What kind of budget is necerrary for that?
BLower + nitro... is it "healty"? Pretty scary to me!
Good luck for the 900 HP!! What kind of budget is necerrary for that?
With a blower and nitrous you better have a built bottom end, good valvesprings, etc.
Actually for 900 hp it won't be that bad. I figure around 5500 or so. (from where I'm at)
3500-4000 for a YSi conversion
1500 for a complete wet nitrous system
read here about the conversion:
http://rmcrperformance.com/rmcrttrim.htm
Actually for 900 hp it won't be that bad. I figure around 5500 or so. (from where I'm at)
3500-4000 for a YSi conversion
1500 for a complete wet nitrous system
read here about the conversion:
http://rmcrperformance.com/rmcrttrim.htm
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I see... is this the standard unit for the Corvette?
How much boost does it make?
+$5500: isn't it better to go for a twin turbo since the beginning? If it wasn't forbidden here to mod the cars I would have installed that instead of the Vortech.
OK, my little blower is also firbidden, but I can remove it in a couple of hours
How much boost does it make?
+$5500: isn't it better to go for a twin turbo since the beginning? If it wasn't forbidden here to mod the cars I would have installed that instead of the Vortech.
OK, my little blower is also firbidden, but I can remove it in a couple of hours