So what is "the" solution to the ATI overheating issue?
I've read a ton on different solutions and ideas, but some were old and some hadn't been tested very well. Ideas ranged from bigger radiators, dual fans, better single fan, pusher fan(s), etc. What is the best fix? I would like to able to use the A/C at least on the open road.
I saw pictures of cars using the dual Be cool 11" fans and some added a 9" fan to the driver side of the ATI shroud, but I think I have even less space than normal due to still having the power steering cooler and my piping. I just need some monster fans I think, my fmic is blocking most of the opening in my (cut out) front bumper, and after going through the fmic the air still has to go through the tranny cooler and condenser.
Please help!!! Should I just order the SDCE fan assembly and be done? Will it even fit with the PS cooler in place?
1) Buy a hood pin kit
2) Cut out the rad support and move the rad/condensor forward till you can fit the stock fans
3) create a new front rad support and paint
With the 408 and the blower an upgraded rad might be an option as well. Depending on what you decide you can buy a shorter unit as well.
i run mainly water with waterwetter, ewp, 160 tstat. but no ac condensor or heater.
i have gone on a three hour straight drive and a twisty backroads drive which was about 1.5 hrs each way rpms ranged from 1500-3000 constant in the back roads
Fig
I'll order the 9" fan tomorrow, for like $80 its worth a shot!
Also I think my condensor is one of the main reasons my car runs hotter. Granted, I'm not using the A/C, but its one more thing its gotta flow through. I think I'll also remove the tranny lines from the radiator and just use the cooler I have, maybe another in series with it.
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I'm sure removing the A/C would help alot, but thats why I went ATI vs. turbo, I want my A/C. I think its just a lack of enough airflow from the fan. We'll see if the 9" fan helps, it seems to have worked for some others.
I run the SLP radiator, 160 and Meizere.
Perma-Cool PN:771-19122, 13-3/4''x12-1/2'', Thickness: 2-3/4'': Motor RPM: 3000, Amp Draw: 6.0, CFM: 1200, Fuse: 30 amp.Welding the frame together would have been a little easier except I don't have access to a tig. I also didn't feel like waiting to find a shop to do it or find somewhere to bend me a shroud. Just got the "bug" in me one day to find a solution and acted on it.
My A/C is out only because I lost a belt one time and it ate the A/C idler pullies. Just never replaced them since I never used it anyway.
Moved the bottom of the radiator forward 1/4" and tilted the top as far forward as it would go. It's tight but it just clears my SDCE tensioner. Metal taped the lexan where it comes in contact with the radiator and used the foam insulation around the edges of the holes in order to seal the fans to the shroud.
Temps used to sit at 200-220 in the summer (90-100 deg) and take forever to come down.
Now it stays around 185-195 in the same weather. The temps rise to 205-210 when I romp on it but they come right back down.
I'll pull the sticker off , paint the steel piece, and just clean it up next time I'm in there messing around. It might not be the prettiest but it gets the job done.
Just took these shots when I saw the thread. Sorry for some of the odd angles. I was "blind" shooting from underneath the car.
Don't mind the dirt. She's due for a thorough cleaning.












Last edited by SSmokin 01; Aug 18, 2006 at 03:22 PM.
Engine Temp is not Air Intake temp.
LS1's are known to run better hot & then that isssue of
burning the condinsation out of the oil. (not sure I believe)
I drive an hour to the track go straight to the lanes
and I always get my fastest run. Progressively gets slower
as the engine cools. I am thinking of going to the stock thermostat.




