head gasket bummer
Originally Posted by Slowhawk
We pull our heads after every race weekend to check them.That is only a 800hp blower car. 
Originally Posted by kp
I'm hard on the car since I just can reach over and crank a **** if I want 100 more HP
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,018
Likes: 51
From: Virginia
i would say when you start to push water it's time to change them
i have bs3 set up to command my air fuel and auto correct for it. my 02 sensor was verified correct just a short time ago
i think i didn't have enough octane
i have bs3 set up to command my air fuel and auto correct for it. my 02 sensor was verified correct just a short time ago
i think i didn't have enough octane
FWIW here is the other side on mine, 3 out of 4 were leaking pretty good. There is no doubt some combustion was getting in the coolent - just dont know exactly how much..
I dont think overtorqueing and copper spray is going to help me out any, I checked every bolt and they were same as I torqued them originally so I dont think a heat cycle retorque is going to do anything.
Maybe some thicker deck heads like AFRs or something will help me out some - but I can buy a lot of GM MLS gaskets for what a set of AFRs cost
I dont think overtorqueing and copper spray is going to help me out any, I checked every bolt and they were same as I torqued them originally so I dont think a heat cycle retorque is going to do anything.
Maybe some thicker deck heads like AFRs or something will help me out some - but I can buy a lot of GM MLS gaskets for what a set of AFRs cost
Originally Posted by kp
FWIW here is the other side on mine, 3 out of 4 were leaking pretty good. There is no doubt some combustion was getting in the coolent - just dont know exactly how much..
I dont think overtorqueing and copper spray is going to help me out any, I checked every bolt and they were same as I torqued them originally so I dont think a heat cycle retorque is going to do anything.
Maybe some thicker deck heads like AFRs or something will help me out some - but I can buy a lot of GM MLS gaskets for what a set of AFRs cost
I dont think overtorqueing and copper spray is going to help me out any, I checked every bolt and they were same as I torqued them originally so I dont think a heat cycle retorque is going to do anything.
Maybe some thicker deck heads like AFRs or something will help me out some - but I can buy a lot of GM MLS gaskets for what a set of AFRs cost
I'm not sold on the thicker head issue. I have ET heads and half inch studs torque to 100 lbs. I'm on my third set of head gaskets. I'm also running c16. As stated earlier it's the head design, it will only handle so much pressure. The only way I've seen high cylinder pressures work is with copper head gaskets and oring-receiver grooved set ups! That will be done on mine this winter.
Andy
Even with copper head gaskets and o-ringing, guys like the OH Boys will push some water. Kurt views coolant as a consumable. 
So Kevin you think you had detonation and had your tune over the edge a little bit?
So Kevin you think you had detonation and had your tune over the edge a little bit?
Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
im pissed i can't race tonight, i've discovered i'm moving about a cup of coolant to the overflow during a 1 gear pull on the 'test track'
i checked the torque on the center head bolts, were tight, and i bought a new 20psi rad cap, same situation.
i have a fairly small relocated overflow and am not interested in overflowing or bursting it going down the track
i'll be sitting out tonight and replacing them with another set of stock ls2 gaskets tomorrow
i believe the tq to the studs was 80# should i stick with that or go more? stock arp replacement studs, 6.0 ls2 alum block.
i also have some copper gasket spray that i used before on cometic gaskets, think that is a good idea this time around?
any advice (other than turn it down)?
i'm running around on a set of 11.5" 17" et street slicks now and they hook up ok in 4th.
i checked the torque on the center head bolts, were tight, and i bought a new 20psi rad cap, same situation.
i have a fairly small relocated overflow and am not interested in overflowing or bursting it going down the track
i'll be sitting out tonight and replacing them with another set of stock ls2 gaskets tomorrow
i believe the tq to the studs was 80# should i stick with that or go more? stock arp replacement studs, 6.0 ls2 alum block.
i also have some copper gasket spray that i used before on cometic gaskets, think that is a good idea this time around?
any advice (other than turn it down)?
i'm running around on a set of 11.5" 17" et street slicks now and they hook up ok in 4th.
Last edited by PurEvl; Sep 12, 2006 at 01:33 PM.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,018
Likes: 51
From: Virginia
nope, that was the plan last (and now this) friday, i will surely not start at 22psi immediately, nor go that far now that this has happened.. dont feel like blowing another saturday under the hood right away.
Originally Posted by PurEvl
I went to 85 with my arp head studs, i havent popped anything all year even at over 820rwhp on pump
Originally Posted by Slowhawk
Thats the trick.This car isn't tuned for max hp.Timing is at 14 degree's and A/F is safe at 11.5-1 or so for the 15lbs. We could add timing and probly hit 900+rwhp but that would probly hurt the gaskets on 93 octain.Been there,done that
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Even with copper head gaskets and o-ringing, guys like the OH Boys will push some water. Kurt views coolant as a consumable.
So Kevin you think you had detonation and had your tune over the edge a little bit?
So Kevin you think you had detonation and had your tune over the edge a little bit?
I dont think it was detonating bad, never had any signs of it at all and the car was running well.
I ran copper gaskets/o-rings on my bigger 706" DRCE nitrous motors and trust me they arent blow proof even with 5 bolts a cylinder
It does what it does and you cant change the design, you can either push it and accept the work or tune it safer/slow it down and it will live for a long time.Here is a couple pics of my GM graphite gaskets from last year after 136 passes. They were leaking some but it doesnt seem as bad as the MLS. Just part of the deal
Last edited by kp; Sep 12, 2006 at 03:23 PM.
Originally Posted by LASTLS1
The only way I've seen high cylinder pressures work is with copper head gaskets and oring-receiver grooved set ups! That will be done on mine this winter.
Andy
Andy
Anyone know how much extra that is when a motor is being built??
On my next motor ill do it..... Ill do an Aluminum 370 from W2W also......save an extra 90lbs too
But hopefully not soon
Kyle
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
From: Glenview, Illinois
I know this might sound a lil nuts but what if you had longer sleeves slipped in the block which hung out over the deck a pinch , and machined the perimeter of the chamber to accept the sleeve and literaly dowel the head to the block? Im sure somewhere along the line this has been done but on an lsx?
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
Anyone know how much extra that is when a motor is being built??
On my next motor ill do it..... Ill do an Aluminum 370 from W2W also......save an extra 90lbs too
But hopefully not soon
Kyle
On my next motor ill do it..... Ill do an Aluminum 370 from W2W also......save an extra 90lbs too
But hopefully not soon
Kyle
It's not that much. I'm pissed I didn't. LME strongly recommended to do it but I said no. I didn't want to have water leaking just driving around. I've now found out that it isn't that bad.
Rule #1 LISTEN TO YOUR ENGINE BUILDER!It really stinks running off the waste gate springs, I would really like to turn up the boost!
Maybe I'm wrong, but the engine would be under longer sustained load making a pass versus making a dyno pull on a Dynojet. I would think the load would be very different. On a different note, Purevl, what has your car trapped in the quarter?
Andy have you changed hg's since the last RSD?
Andy have you changed hg's since the last RSD?
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Maybe I'm wrong, but the engine would be under longer sustained load making a pass versus making a dyno pull on a Dynojet. I would think the load would be very different. On a different note, Purevl, what has your car trapped in the quarter?
Andy have you changed hg's since the last RSD?
Andy have you changed hg's since the last RSD?