ARP rod bolts allow more boost???
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From: Mufflerville, CA
ARP rod bolts allow more boost??? Wondering how many PSI are safe on a stock bottom end if I installed new rod bolts.
I figure 8 psi is sorta the standard on a completly stock bottom end....so would the rod bolts buy me a few more PSI, or would I still need forged internals to surpass 8 spi (somewhat safely).
Thanks!
I figure 8 psi is sorta the standard on a completly stock bottom end....so would the rod bolts buy me a few more PSI, or would I still need forged internals to surpass 8 spi (somewhat safely).
Thanks!
ehh. the pistons are still a weakpoint, and i'd be hesitant to bring up the boost. maybe u can squeeze 1 or 2 psi. sure, people have successfully ran higher boost but they are lucky. just make sure to keep ur timing low and ur fuel rich.
On The Tree
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From: Oslo, Norway, Europe
this is an interesting thread, by timing low you mean late? rod bolts, pistons are the first things then maybe? stuff as valvesprings, pushrods and so on wont be necessary to upgrade if you run low rpm, Im thinking of boosting my 04 GTO engine, and i want to lower the rev limiter to 6000 or something.
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From: Mufflerville, CA
Originally Posted by Hersker Hans
this is an interesting thread, by timing low you mean late? rod bolts, pistons are the first things then maybe? stuff as valvesprings, pushrods and so on wont be necessary to upgrade if you run low rpm, Im thinking of boosting my 04 GTO engine, and i want to lower the rev limiter to 6000 or something.
I have patriot stg 3 heads and a decent size cam. I am just wondering if the $80 part, and $100 extra for labor I would pay, would be worth a few extra safe PSI.
Interesting. Here is the scenerio for me. Just bought a D-1sc and what to run about 15psi on it in my upcoming Corvette purchase. The items I have are TPIS LQ9 stage 3 heads with Diamond 20cc dished pistons. I was just going to throw the pistons with stock rods and some ARP rod bolts and slap the heads on. Is this going to be O.K. with the stock crank and rods. Probably put new bearings in it while I am there. Also what is the part number for ARP L19's that will fit stock rods?
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If I were to replace rod bolts I would go with the Katech ones. Check the internal section for more info on that.
But, I agree with EPP that the pistons would fail first. Usually rpm kills the stock rods (from some of the failures I have heard about).
But, I agree with EPP that the pistons would fail first. Usually rpm kills the stock rods (from some of the failures I have heard about).
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Originally Posted by redrumss
Interesting. Here is the scenerio for me. Just bought a D-1sc and what to run about 15psi on it in my upcoming Corvette purchase. The items I have are TPIS LQ9 stage 3 heads with Diamond 20cc dished pistons. I was just going to throw the pistons with stock rods and some ARP rod bolts and slap the heads on. Is this going to be O.K. with the stock crank and rods. Probably put new bearings in it while I am there. Also what is the part number for ARP L19's that will fit stock rods?
Last edited by BOONE; Oct 3, 2006 at 03:24 PM.
It seems you're better off running a good piston with stock rods and bolts. 
My stock pistons never fell apart on me with 8.5 psi and a year's worth of driving. Then again, I only drove my car twice a week.
To be honest, I've never heard of a rod failing on a stock motor under boost... It's usually ringlands that fall apart from what I've read here... Our stock rods are actually pretty decent I hear.
My stock pistons never fell apart on me with 8.5 psi and a year's worth of driving. Then again, I only drove my car twice a week.
To be honest, I've never heard of a rod failing on a stock motor under boost... It's usually ringlands that fall apart from what I've read here... Our stock rods are actually pretty decent I hear.
The rod bolts may not give you more PSI, but they will allow you to rev higher. This will allow you to take advantage of your better flowing heads, cam, and allow you to have a wider power band. The power band is dependent on turbo size, AR, and other factors, but I think you're running a 76mm turbo so it should be good. I say go for it.
Originally Posted by BOONE
If you put new parts against "worn to fit" metal they will not wear to fit. You must have newly machined surfaces to have the other new surfaces wear to fit, "like rings seating". Cylinders must be honed, "or deglazed" and possibly bored out. The whole motor needs tolerances checked, "measured by someone that knows what they are looking at", or the motor will not last. You don't want a motor that uses copious amounts of oil and smokes, and bearings that become loose in a matter of weeks to months. If you do this, the whole motor will wear acceleratedly. Even if the motor is fairly new this is the case. Not trying to be a smartass, just don't want you to be devastated.
if you're going to take it apart and redo your motor do it right and do the rods too, its cheap insurance and only a few hundred more bux.
forged shortblocks are going for pretty cheap now thru our sponsors.
forged shortblocks are going for pretty cheap now thru our sponsors.
