can you drive an STS car untuned?
#21
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your not gonna be detonating by running super rich, from what I understand detonation only occurs when you run to lean for the octane in the motor, which is what causes miscalculated spark resulting in explosion in the chamber when the piston isnt all the way to the top yet.
#23
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guys keep in mind sts delivered these kits with stock tunes when they were first introduced. They were tested on stock tunes and driven for awhile, some for years. Should you do this? No, I would certainly advise against it. But driving 10,20,30 miles down the road should be fine following the guidelines already given. stay out of boost and ease into the throttle. I see that its from TRT. Call them if you have any questions.
#26
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Man what a bunch of overly paranoid people. It will be very hard to go into much boost at all unless you pretty much floor the car. Just watch boost gauge and make sure you only see a pound or two max if even that. If you are super paranoid then buy some race gas or mix 5 gallons of xylene or toluene in your tank it would be super hard to hurt anything on the equivalent of race gas running 5psi even without a tune. A tune is not magic it will just knock down some timing likely and up the fuel.
Buddy drove his lt1 sts with stock pump and stock injectors and kept the rpm under think it was 5000 and no problems at all.
You are also forgetting the engines have knock retard systems in them. While I agree that our stock pistons are total crap for any forced induction at higher boost levels at 5 to maybe 7 psi they survive if decently tuned.
So don't go wot just baby it around upshift and drive the speed limit until you get the injectors and tuning and you won't hurt anything.
But if you want to go trailer it there whatever. I don't even think the stock injectors would have a problem running 5psi or so especially for short amounts of time. Lots of guys with heads,cam/headers pushing around 400 rwhp seem to be able to get away with it for short periods of time.
Course if maf is run blow thru not draw thru could just create a little boost leak before the maf also.Car will run with boost leak before the maf even a big one. After the maf not so good..
Also unlikely you will hurt your tranny till you start going pretty far up there on boost. Like past 7psi. Buddies lt1 was fine and it was stock auto.
Again wouldn't be overly paranoid.
Buddy drove his lt1 sts with stock pump and stock injectors and kept the rpm under think it was 5000 and no problems at all.
You are also forgetting the engines have knock retard systems in them. While I agree that our stock pistons are total crap for any forced induction at higher boost levels at 5 to maybe 7 psi they survive if decently tuned.
So don't go wot just baby it around upshift and drive the speed limit until you get the injectors and tuning and you won't hurt anything.
But if you want to go trailer it there whatever. I don't even think the stock injectors would have a problem running 5psi or so especially for short amounts of time. Lots of guys with heads,cam/headers pushing around 400 rwhp seem to be able to get away with it for short periods of time.
Course if maf is run blow thru not draw thru could just create a little boost leak before the maf also.Car will run with boost leak before the maf even a big one. After the maf not so good..
Also unlikely you will hurt your tranny till you start going pretty far up there on boost. Like past 7psi. Buddies lt1 was fine and it was stock auto.
Again wouldn't be overly paranoid.
#27
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well an update here........ started her up at the exhasut shop for the first time with the exhaust connected to the turbo. at first it idled pretty good, same as it did before the turbo. then lots of popping started coming out of the exhaust, and my a/f was jumping all over the place so i shut it off. the boost guage also showed vac.
now i checked the tailpipe and there is a little oil trickling out of it, and oil dripping down the exhaust side of the turbo. the intake side and piping looks ok on the outside, but i havent disconnected anything to check the inside. i dont have a jack or anything to lift the car up, as i can barely peek under the car. i just had it towed home and its just chillin in the garage. so thats the status of the car now. anyone with ideas of whats going on, your input is greatly appreciated!
now i checked the tailpipe and there is a little oil trickling out of it, and oil dripping down the exhaust side of the turbo. the intake side and piping looks ok on the outside, but i havent disconnected anything to check the inside. i dont have a jack or anything to lift the car up, as i can barely peek under the car. i just had it towed home and its just chillin in the garage. so thats the status of the car now. anyone with ideas of whats going on, your input is greatly appreciated!
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it sounds like the oil pump my not be working - it will fill the turbo and come out the exhaust you can bet you have oil in the charge pipe also, but not very far you were just at idle. your eng is going to be in vac until you spool the turbo under a load and come out of vac into boost. follow the instructions from sts to check the pump. i had similiar problem its usually minor, you could have wiring backwards on pump causing it to keep oil in turbo instead of scavaging it back to eng.
#29
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Originally Posted by MY99TAWS6
Man what a bunch of overly paranoid people. It will be very hard to go into much boost at all unless you pretty much floor the car. Just watch boost gauge and make sure you only see a pound or two max if even that. If you are super paranoid then buy some race gas or mix 5 gallons of xylene or toluene in your tank it would be super hard to hurt anything on the equivalent of race gas running 5psi even without a tune. A tune is not magic it will just knock down some timing likely and up the fuel.
Buddy drove his lt1 sts with stock pump and stock injectors and kept the rpm under think it was 5000 and no problems at all.
You are also forgetting the engines have knock retard systems in them.....
Buddy drove his lt1 sts with stock pump and stock injectors and kept the rpm under think it was 5000 and no problems at all.
You are also forgetting the engines have knock retard systems in them.....
...what I was really commenting on though was your statement about the KR system... you DO realize that MAX retard in PE is ONLY 4 degrees right? I wouldn't count on that to save anything as far this goes.
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Johnny, have your installer check and make sure the pump is running first. Also, make sure it is running the right way and the power and ground are not reversed. Feel free to have him call me if I can help. If you already have it home, call me and I'll walk you through some things to check. Done run it until you figure it out or you will end up with more problems. If you read this in the next 30min, you can even call me tonight.