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LT1 Turbo Build PT.2 S400 Turbo 396ci's....

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Old 12-03-2006, 07:10 PM
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Thanks should be pretty nice after this week, we have more tubing on the way for the DP, somehow UPS didn't deliver it on Friday

IC should be a snap.....getting air to it...thats another story
Old 03-14-2007, 11:29 PM
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Back from the dead, but not yet alive:





Still having a hard time trying to get the griffin rad and flex a lite fans to fit. Might have to go to a pusher system instead of a puller. The fans still wont clear the compressor cover on the pullers.

Eric
Old 03-14-2007, 11:32 PM
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some more:





sorry for the large pics. dont know how to resize 'em
Old 03-15-2007, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Eric Bazan
Eric, it looks like the welds are cold... like you or Jer are using the trigger tapping technique with the mig welder. That ends up stacking the welds up, but doesnt generate a ton of heat for penetration. You'll get better penetration and strength if you keep the trigger held the whole time and work your way down the seam (there are different techniques while moving along the seam).
Old 03-15-2007, 09:09 AM
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Looking great Eric! Cant wait to see the results
Jason
Old 03-15-2007, 10:26 AM
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subscribing

i was looking at the pics thinking "how is he gonna get a radiator/fans in there?"

cant wait to see the final result
Old 03-15-2007, 02:17 PM
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such a nice build, i love fab work
Old 03-15-2007, 04:23 PM
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Realquick, you are dead on about how I was welding it up. I was trying to keep the bead steady but being ms it was blowing through it like paper. I adjusted my wirespeed, and voltage output from high to low and everything inbetween. No luck burned through. I also didn't want to warp the flange on the DP to turbine outlet from excessive heat. With the trigger tapping technique (lol) kept the warpage down but we still had to tap it over the S400 Vband outlet to get it to slip back over after welding. We quickly put the V band clamp back on it to make it spring back to its original shape.


Don't know why it was hard to throw the bead down, both pieces were clean. We did have the welder hooked up to a rinky dink extension cord...might have affected it.....I was also out of practice too keep up the welding redicule, it'll help me better my skills


BUT being its only the DP, strength at the weld wasn't too much of a concern.....oh yeah make sure you guys really take the aluminized coating off any pipes if using aluminized anything when you weld **** up That stuff will kill you

Eric we'll get the fan/radiator in...but your going to have to sell your radiator...I found a thinner one Gwad Dang S400 is a huge bitch LOL.
Old 03-15-2007, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by frcefed98
Realquick, you are dead on about how I was welding it up. I was trying to keep the bead steady but being ms it was blowing through it like paper. I adjusted my wirespeed, and voltage output from high to low and everything inbetween. No luck burned through. I also didn't want to warp the flange on the DP to turbine outlet from excessive heat. With the trigger tapping technique (lol) kept the warpage down but we still had to tap it over the S400 Vband outlet to get it to slip back over after welding. We quickly put the V band clamp back on it to make it spring back to its original shape.


Don't know why it was hard to throw the bead down, both pieces were clean. We did have the welder hooked up to a rinky dink extension cord...might have affected it.....I was also out of practice too keep up the welding redicule, it'll help me better my skills


BUT being its only the DP, strength at the weld wasn't too much of a concern.....oh yeah make sure you guys really take the aluminized coating off any pipes if using aluminized anything when you weld **** up That stuff will kill you

Eric we'll get the fan/radiator in...but your going to have to sell your radiator...I found a thinner one Gwad Dang S400 is a huge bitch LOL.
Jer, no worries dude. Your right about the strength of the downpipe, there isnt much load on it. I didnt know if you did the x-over like that too, so I was just mentioning it. The extension cord does mess with output I noticed. You still shouldnt burn thru though. What kind of welder are you using? I use a licoln Pro Mig 140A, and I have no problems. Maybe its the welder itself, perhaps it doesnt allow the correct adjustability, or using the ext. cord now messes up the settings. This could happen if no you need to be inbetween a setting (i.e. one setting is too cold and the next setting up burns thru).

Jon
Old 03-16-2007, 01:43 AM
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Jon anytime we use that damn extension cord...we have issues. If the welder is plugged directly into the outlet in the garage we are good to go. My pops bought a nice heavy duty short cord for us to use after those welds and things have turned out well from then on anytime we have to drag the welder to the car.

The crossover was done right, no burn through and the only areas that the weld came out heavy was in areas that I couldn't get to easily ( most of it was welded up on the car to avoid shift or warpage) but it came out very nice and we should have any problems with cracking or weak areas. The turbo will be braced to the engine tho as it is a heavy SOB.

Welder is a Clarke EN130 or something like that, been real solid for anything that i've thrown at it so far, but i'm really wanting to upgrade soon.

J
Old 03-16-2007, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by frcefed98
Jon anytime we use that damn extension cord...we have issues. If the welder is plugged directly into the outlet in the garage we are good to go. My pops bought a nice heavy duty short cord for us to use after those welds and things have turned out well from then on anytime we have to drag the welder to the car.

The crossover was done right, no burn through and the only areas that the weld came out heavy was in areas that I couldn't get to easily ( most of it was welded up on the car to avoid shift or warpage) but it came out very nice and we should have any problems with cracking or weak areas. The turbo will be braced to the engine tho as it is a heavy SOB.

Welder is a Clarke EN130 or something like that, been real solid for anything that i've thrown at it so far, but i'm really wanting to upgrade soon.

J
I hear ya Jer, when I use an extension cord my heat settings are completely different. I finally ran an outlet across my garage to my workbench, so no problems now.
Old 05-02-2007, 11:13 PM
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Default Look what I got back from the coaters!

Thanks to FX Coating!






Old 05-02-2007, 11:24 PM
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Man thats some good lookin tile!!

































The hot parts look good too
Old 05-03-2007, 12:36 AM
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believe it or not the actual headers i used were only $196 shipped. Kyle (kbracing96) welded v-bands on and moved number 7 primary. They worked out sooo good.

But the headers that i posted in ur guy's thread on TM.com (the ones eric posted) would be the best ones. less modification and look great anyways.

Last edited by Dragframe; 05-03-2007 at 12:47 AM.
Old 05-03-2007, 05:53 AM
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Lookin goo eric....

Kyle
Old 05-03-2007, 09:22 AM
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Nice!!!
Old 05-03-2007, 04:46 PM
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Man I feel left out, my hot parts were done by FX the same time as Eric.

FX coating did an outstanding job and really communicated well with us before and after the work. The pricing simply cannot be beat.


















Old 05-03-2007, 05:25 PM
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Looking good. Glad to see an update, it's been a while.
Old 05-03-2007, 05:36 PM
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That's some nice coating Jeremy... Did you ever get that problem fixed with not being able to build boost??

So when are you guys going to fire the LT1 up?? Looks like it's going to be zinging...
Old 05-03-2007, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 98turbls1
That's some nice coating Jeremy... Did you ever get that problem fixed with not being able to build boost??

So when are you guys going to fire the LT1 up?? Looks like it's going to be zinging...
He found multiple issues that could have all contributed to the problem. He can give specifics.

Looks good buddy, you coming over for the fight this weekend?


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