remember to set all high values 25% higher than your current max in the entire map you think is out of range being high boost. and/or high RPM (even beyond the limiter!)

I used to work as an automotive tuner, we did a lot of 3rd party product testing, but also custom tuning on mostly FI cars, and when I built a tune I would always do this as a failsafe, last thing I needed was somebody wanting to kill me because they cracked some pistons. I would tune the car, print the Dyno after making max power/torque and usually add 5-10% fuel to most of the map, and sometimes pull a degree or two of timing. Helps the motors live longer at the expense of a little power.

Cant wait to see your next setup, I read probably your entire thread and it was surely informative.

I am getting ready to build my LS1 equipped Toyota Tacoma with a rear-mid mount turbo system, probably going to shoot for low boost at first and go from there, should be a blast in a 2900lb pickup and 500ish hp, if it will ever hook up that is (hoping 11.5" rear wheels will help)

Do you have the specs on your new turbo? Cold and hotside? I am currently turbo shopping as well so just comparing notes..

 

I will definitely add to the VE for that matter as you have said. The turbo has been the same since I trashed the stock STS 60mm.

Turbonetics TC76 Ball bearing, I think 0.84 A/R...have to double check.
If I was on a 5.7L I would have gone or changed out to the TC72 for a faster spool
now that I'm on the 6.0L motor... it spools the 76 nicely

 

from what everyone keeps saying, the 76mm with .81 range is a very good choice size for nice power and fun factor.
I just ordered one for myself wish i could have worked in the ball bearing one in but from what i keep reading, the journal bear type turbo will sufice for us less needy types lol

 

Are you running clamps on rubber hoses for your oil lines? How long have they been like that?

 

clamps and they are barbed connections (oil return) or stainless threaded connections (oil feed)

its been like that for 2+ years, and I've always had my eye all over the car continuously

 

Ok thanks, i have mine with 6an feed, 10an to pump, then barbed with clamps from pump to valve cover. So i hope this is a good set up.

 

Well, took the time and some dough to replace all of my worm/pipe hose clamps with T-Bolt clamps. I just ordered my last silicone hose & will be swapping out my last pipe clamps for the T-bolts once I get that in.

All is running great, I have a leaky water pump that I'm going to replace shortly, will keep updated details on what I choose & install.

The tap point where an oil cooler goes on trucks for oil feed to the turbo was a little leaky, further tapped it properly and then due to it not quite tightening up to our satisfaction, we JB quick welded it in place. By the way, it is removable without taking the exhaust off, you just have to do some maneuvering.

I'm still running a 38mm wastegate on a 76mm turbo (68mm exhaust) and I have the boost controller installed (HKS), still experimenting with it for exact boost setting, but its coming along. Going for 3 settings. Off, just on wastegate spring 6.5psi (7.25psi spring @ 20 celsius) so I'm losing about 0.7psi drop across all tubing & intercooler. Then 10psi on setting A, and 12psi on setting B.

Turbowerx oil scavenge oil pump is working great, the bosch 044 pump is working great in conjunction with my 255 in tank. Not having any issues there.

Currently looking at a new battery box, as mine broke during a hard acceleration and deceleration.

Other than these few minor things its still all doing great.

 

nice, yeah i went staright with tbolt clamps and mishimoto couplers all around just to get it over and done with, i also had an advantage of piecing together my own system so thats a bonus lol i also took you advise and went with a slightly larger wastegate. A 44mm Wastegate . not too large but with my starting 4psi spring, also a much larger 31x13x3 intercoolerll have TONS of room to grow lol glad to hear yours is coming along nicly after a few mishaps

 

yeh, always something man. But I guess it would be boring and no fun if we weren't always modding.

I don't really have a reference for an estimate on pressure drop (typical), but I know it will absolutely vary from setup to setup and intercooler to intercooler. Some vendors probably provide data on intercooler psi drops. 4psi...c'mon this is forced induction not a hair dryer, LOL.

 

LOL I know, I know lol Im getting a 8psi for it too so i can up it later. 4psi is just my start point to get everything safely running. I dont want to go to a tuner that gets all dyno happy and blows my motor because he got too greedy with the boost.

 

promised pictures of turbo bracing and etc. here they are:

 

That looks nice and beefy! i like that. i gotta do somthing like that.
hows it holding up?

hey had a couple of questions on about the oil return line.

first, are you running it over or under the axle? i saw on the first few pages that you have it going over followign the charge pipe hoop but i know youve changed alot over the years lol so just needed you input on it

second, i was throwing around an idea and was wondering what you think. I already have a 10 an line from turbo back to oil pan. I was wondering if about a 1ft section of 12 an line right off the turbo and then back to 10 an into the pump. my thinking is that the short 12 an line will act as a mini sump, mostly when the car is running hard, allowing the pump to return the oil back without struggling to keep up.

your thoughts?

 

OP: Unless I missed something, your car doesn't have any mufflers on it, and it seems surprisingly quiet... Am I wrong about either or both of those observations?

 

Under the axle, along the cold side tubing up until in front of the rear end, then it goes and follows the transmission and taps into the oil pan. I'll get some pics soonI would keep the entire return line all -10, what pump did you buy?

no mufflers, stock manifolds, to stock cats (gutted), completely empty. slp y pipe to factory I pipe that turns and goes to turbo (I believe this is an STS piece that joins the I pipe to a turn pipe that makes it to the turbo). Out of turbo dump.

Its really not that loud, but its certainly not a stock exhaust. I would say its very similar to a car with headers, 3 inch exhaust, and a muffler of some sort. I will record a video with the camera 10 ft away and tell me what you think.

 

That'll be great, thanks!

 

I'll do a drive by with the video camera in the driveway soon also. Its not all that loud, but you know its something.

 

Thanks, that really isn't loud!

 

I wanted to add further explanation to those that buy rear ends, as the instructions given via phone or via manual in the shipping box, I want to elaborate a little on the 12 bolt rear ends.

With C-clip retained rear ends (12-bolt w/ C clip), the end bearing needs lubrication from the oil in the rear end (I believe from what I was told) and with a pumpkin filled to the point of fluid coming out of the FRONT allen key hole this is satisfactory. This is how the factory rear is.

HOWEVER, with NON-C-CLIP rear ends, and WITH SEALED bearings which I believe many have, you actually DO NOT WANT TO FILL THE REAR END UP to where it is coming out of the FRONT 9/16ths allen key (or whatever size it is at the front of the pumpkin).
you want it about 1/2 and inch to an 1 inch BELOW the hole.

If you still experience leaks, then you can also order seals from a company called Seals-it, here are a few pictures of their seals. they are installed where the axle tube meets the pumpkin and seal completely around the axle itself. Only thing with installing this type of seal, is that you have to completely take off the back cover, take out axles, take out the center section of the rear end.









I feel that the answer to the oil coming out of the axle tubes is due to people over filling them, as per MOSER instructions it simply states fill the pumpkin until it comes out of the front fill hole.

HOWEVER, this is not necessary, as with it that FULL, fluid is basically just at the axle tube area and likely creeping down the axle tube without you even moving the car. Sealed bearings do not need lubrication, in the C-clipped rears they use bearings that are NOT sealed and require this lubrication.

So with installing these inner seals from Seals-It, and not filling the rear up all the way that will for certain stop the leaking. I however feel from my experience with all my BS with MOSER that simply leaving it 1/2" or 1" below that front hole will be significant enough to not leak anymore. However, being I don't want to deal with this crap anymore I'm taking all the steps I can to ensure no more leaks.

 

ALSO PAY VERY close attention to what CENTER SECTION you are using.

Detroit True Trac (made by Eaton), NO SYNTHETICS, NO ADDITIVES - Straight conventional 80w-90 or next similar.

If you don't know, or don't believe whatever manufacturer you are purchasing the rear from, or better yet; YOU shouldn't trust what they tell you, and YOU should find out for yourself BY CALLING EATON.

 

good rear mount info in here.