damn that sucks, sorry to see that. a valved didnt come out to say hello did it? definatly a source of compression lose.

 

no, what i think it was is it ran lean on a dragstrip pass for just a split second, and I got in the tune and added fuel and corrected it, flashed it and ran again...but I guess it was a minute too late...

that still doesn't explain cylinders 1 ,3 ,5 but I'm betting the rings broke. I would have to guess it was just running too lean/hot as if you look at the top of the pistons I would have expected more carbon build up, but maybe on a boosted car that doesn't happen as much due to the higher temperatures/pressures, it doesn't have time to build up or breaks off due to the heat/pressure...but for one side of the motor to be entirely good and the other bad... I don't know. My good ol' ls1 when we rebuilt it the first time and got it ready for boost, we honed it out 5 thousandths...problem is now will the block hold if we have to go another 5 thousandths.... or will I have to buy a new ls6 or even ls2 and go from there.....

my guys all say it looks good ( i mean the car ran great) no detonation, looks as if everything was running fine

 

You, sir, have no manner of luck what-so-ever! Sucks to hear about the motor dude. Hope you can get it back up and running without dropping too much cash.

 

Well, I don't see it as luck or no luck...it just wasn't setup properly and after talking to a few vendors the proper parts were realized, should have done this from the beginning.

found an ls2 block, not expensive...going to tweak a few things while I'm at it.
I tell ya the car ran great though....can't wait to see it when its done correct!

It made 650 and 680 on 3/4 of a leg...going also while I'm at it for a full size T72 instead of my TC76, which will be for sale along with some boost springs and other parts I have had for a while. Will be looking at ~700RWHP ~720RWTQ at around 14~15psi

 

I don't understand, are you saying you used the wrong parts? improper assembly?

 

the wrong piston rings were used. we used a high tensile strength ductile iron ring...which in high boosted applications is not recommended.

a normal ductile iron ring is highly NOT recommended.

Most boosted cars are running some kind of steel ring.

 

UPDATE:

problem was not rings or pistons. At some point exceeded 15psi, and the last table value in the tune was not sufficient for anything above 15psi. I likely had my boost controller set too aggressive and it spiked above 15psi for a second or so causing a lean condition. Also didn't help running on 93 octane and 130+ intake temps

 

Meth=no intake temps above 100 degrees

 

ew, so note to self, do a little extra tuning outside of my normal range of desired boost lol
So i should tune for 15psi even though my desired boost is 10psi right? just in case. and keep my nrm boost at 10psi

 

here is the kicker... 1 bar map actually maxes (will quit reading) prior to the max value in HPTuners... it will stop at something slightly above 101.325 (atmospheric) maybe somewhere around 103. the standard VE table goes to 105

anyway.. i witnessed a 2 bar map maxing out at 207kpa instead of 210 in hptuners that the table has. REason this happened is that my offset value was set too high in my boost controller and it went beyond my 15psi boost...lets say 16 instead of 15 when my hptuners tune was set for 15psi...so..... yeh.

what I should have done was tested my boost controller settings at like 10psi and seen how far it jumped then tweaked accordingly...

another option would be make the last table values in hptuners 25% or higher in value to keep fueling if it were to jump ever so slightly higher in boost.

another option is to forget the 2 bar map and go 3 bar and just tune for what I need and scale the rest.

REMINDER... just be careful. oops.

 

lol yeah, im gonna have somone walk me thru my tuning when ever i get HP tuners one day

 

Hey, I'm new and still saving up for a camaro. I was looking at a kit like this. I'm not very mechanically inclined but I was wondering how this would affect the exhuast system. I plan on getting this

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/pe...tips400hp.aspx

and selling whatever I don't use or need to use.

 

headers and turbo car equals bad idea for rear mount.

I would get the SLP Y-pipe ( 3 inch ) and leave the rest. stick to your stock manifolds. and for a ls1 engine, a 70mm turbo is a nice size. Also look for Zombie and his build on here.

 

so hey, since we are talking size lol A t76 should flow good without lagging too bad right? Im still wondering if i should get a .96 or a .84 AR though. still not sure which will be ok for me while i wait to get a spool valve later. mind you stock internals so even with a good tune, not going past 10psi for awhile.

 

uummm... I would suggest a 72mm ball bearing, billet wheel if you like.

Here is mine:
TC76 Ball bearing, .81A/R T4 housing 3" DP flange

what block are you on Joshua?
If I could go and re-spec my turbo from turbonetics I would go with the full size 72mm ? T-72 with ball bearing and billet wheel.... I would go all out with it, lol.

I'm still debating taking mine and paying to upgrade to the full housing and billet wheel. As I'm going to be on a 370 motor now...I think my 76 is going to be perfect...especially if I upgrade to the full housing.

 

hey man how do you have your scavenge pump wired up?

 

same as sts has it, I literally replaced their pump with mine with their relay and it is tied in with my ignition as the sts is.

 

Hey so i got a exa pump and it is giant. So i am wondering how you mounted it to the floor pan... i had my old one on with welf tapping screws but this one too heavy.. so im just wondering what you did

 

4 beefy self tapping screws up above where the electrical connections are under the car in front of the rear end.... let me see if i have a picture. Home depot or lowes should have some rather beefy self tapping aluminum screws for ya that you can use.

Here ya go:

 

Well a few updates. got my 6.0L motor all together and get the car running again. I have driven the car for break in and I'm hoping to hit the dyno soon.
Going to do a little street tuning to get the trims in line and AFR somewhat tweaked.

Also, swapped injectors for FIC 725 injectors (which actually flow 732 or 69.65 LB/Hr @ 43.5psi) and I must say the O-rings were of better quality and fit nice and snug when installed. On the ID injectors I had to replace 3 O-rings as they were leaking. Bosch apparently on the rubber seal that goes down at the intake seat is larger on FIC725, however, I was told that this is a bosch piece so it varies. I liked the bigger seal.