Thats quite a jump there lol
I understand its a ratio, Ive been reading around that keeping any sized turbo to an .81 or lower turbine housing helps keep lag down a bit with rear mounts. Obviously the bigger the turbo, the more lag is gonna show its ugly head.

 

I have not gotten numbers yet. trying to fix a small transmission leak now, and replacing both front wheel bearings/hub assemblies.

Doing basic maintenance.

It also doesn't help with work I have been out of the US for 2 months in the past 7 months.



Josh, call Jose @ Forced Inductions if you haven't. He is awesome. When I spoke with him, he said the smallest for my goals he would recommend would be the TC72. However, I told him 600HP...so for your 500HP or so you should be fine with a 70mm or 72mm. Talk with Jose about the ratio & sizing.

Also, for your questions about boost control... if you are wanting different levels you would be best to go with a Boost controller, where you can set it in the car to your liking. Are you running the factory pistons, rings, bottom end?
If yes please oh please run TR6 or TR7 plugs. The only real difference in the grade of plugs (standard...iridium..etc, is the service life) I'm sure you already know this though.
With regards to boost and all those factory parts, I wouldn't run more than 7psi; and I'm dead serious when I say that.

If you have aftermarket parts, then 10psi would be fine and just leave it. The way the wastegate spring works is it is the only resistance to control pressure, that is it. you do not get any other options, if its a 10 LB spring, then you will get ~9.8Lbs of boost roughly, its not going to be exact due to losses, more or less depending on piping design, intercooler.

with a electronic boost controller, you can change the boost on the fly, say you are in 5th gear doing 80mph and it is set on 10psi. you floor it, you will get 10psi. you can then change it to 14psi or 18psi if you wanted. I built the engine based on a maximum supportable boost of ~15psi, my limiting factor is my 2 bar MAP, as I have a HPTuners Custom OS 2bar installed. My rings & pistons along with my compression are good for at most 18psi (generalized statement).

if you have more questions feel free to PM me.

 

transmission rear seal replaced. going to drive for a week or so, and hopefully by NEXT friday be on the dyno!!!

 

lol i did the hubs too, they arnt too hard supprisingly, just make sure you thread a bolt in the new hub before doing anything else, or it will fall... and you can crack the sensor dust cover.... ask me how i know lol

Thanks for the boost relatred answers, gave me alot more clear idea of what i want. So a 8-10lbs spring should be ok then huh? Yeah, my block is pretty much stock minus the LS6 induction and PCV system. I got ahold of a T70 with .84 AR turbine housing. Im gonna start with that.

 

LMAO
just make sure you get a good one way valve, you don't want boost heading into your engine external to the combustion process, and make sure that your engine can breathe external to the combustion (PCV) process. Depending on your wastegate size (mm) usually a 38mm or 40mm or 44mm .... TialSport has a website about wastegates and spring sizes, etc. check it out. Make sure that you CLEARLY read what boost a certain spring is on a certain wastegate size. For instance, a 12 LB spring on a 38mm wastegate is NOT a 12LB spring on a 44mm Wastegate.

They should have some lower pressure springs that would suite your needs.

 

i picked up the hks evc-s for mine. cant wait to get it in, it looks so good.

 

damnit. Transmission is still leaking. I think that I have a damaged mainshaft bearing race inside the transmission housing extension. I put in a new rear seal and went for a drive and checked it out afterwards and it still leaks.

Going to take some pictures and investigate some more. Already bought ANOTHER new rear seal, and went ahead and purchased the new transmission extension housing that comes with the race bearing.
Hope to have the housing by Tuesday...start on it Tuesday night maybe Wednesday...hopefully be finished by Thursday night and if not will have to work on it starting that following Monday...traveling on the weekend.

 

IU learned alittle somthing about spool valves if you have a twin scroll turbo. THink i might invest in one of those as well

 

Well, found out that my transmission leak isn't at all a transmission leak. It is a drive shaft leak. Yeah how about that.

The damn thing is leaking between the seal surface at the point of the front shaft that goes into the transmission and its associated U-joint I guess you would call it.

 

that sucks, make sure thought that you clean all the tranny fluid out of your tranny/Torq arm bolt holes or you will experience "leaking" when it really isnt lol I had a tailshaft leak for awhile in mine, nothing uncommon, but then when i replaced it I noticed it seemed like it was still leaking, but when i finally replaced my Torq arm with my new UMI one i was met with royal purple ALL over me from the TA mounting bolts lol not somwhere i would think of oil going lol but they can hold quite a bit of oil in there lol

 

Yep, yoke leak @ freeze plug at the back of the yoke.

question:
why in the ************** do they machine the yoke all the way through, and then put a damn plug at the back of it? what the hell is the point?

 

Maybe a case of the drive shaft being tooo long ? As it did last 3k miles and i took it easy for those miles. Lately been beating the hell out of it... maybe all the movement has caused the output shaft to hit the plug...

what are the drive shaft tolerances?

 

damn that sucks. I was trying to hope for ya the easy solution lol but ya got the leak lol
on a positive note I got my turbo in today lol
Just a simple T70 with .84 AR Twin scroll



now to build the rest of the components lol

 

ooo pretty well at least you found out what was leaking, and that really is a back assward design imho. my build hit yet another snag as eaton apparently has no carriers in stock for their 12 bolt posi's. so my strange 12 bolt cant be finished. they said next month "sometime" at the earliest. smh

 

my moser 12 bolt has a detroit true trac. Love it.


Here is the leak.... was trouble shooting and the black crap is RTV I was using to determine if it was the transmission or the rear yoke seal

 

really? 30 or 33 spline? strange said there was only one option for my 12 bolt and that was the eaton hd posi. but of course as i write this i find eaton's diff application guide and i see the pn for the truetrac. i'm guessing their posi just has 33 spline gears swapped out. cause there's no pn listed for it. i'm gonna call in the morning and see what the heck the deal is.

 

i hit up strange about using a true-trac. apparently the spline angle on the true-trac is slightly different than that on the clutch posi. the true-trac matches the moser spline angle.

i was wondering, what program did you use for tuning? my guy is using hp tuners and isnt used to doing a forced induction application so he's hit a wall with it. he's trying to get the ve tables set before going into boost.. can he use the ltft table histogram and just set the pe parameters ? there has to be an easier way to do it than what he's doing.

 

I've run into a problem after fixing my yoke. Just FYI, my fuel setup is:
Racetronix PnP 255 in tank w/wiring harness
External Bosch 044 w/ window switch at 3k
Fuel rails (black anodized) and all AN fittings, Y at front of car, loop at back of engine
Aeromotive FPR
Aeromotive external filter

I swear previously, when I turned the key to RUN and the fuel pump primed and my fuel gauge went up to ~50psi (set at via FPR) and it would hold. I could then crank the car and it would crank just fine.

Now, I turn the key to RUN, it takes what seems a few seconds longer to prime and it peaks at 50 then falls right on its *** down to zero and the car won't crank (obviously).

Then key off, then back to RUN, and then I cranked it right when I saw the fuel press gauge peak and it started right up. It maintains pressure during running, even during WOT and it increases with MAP (FPR feature).
Only thing I have noticed is that lately my voltage gauge in the car seems to be reading high. I got under the car and checked for leaks... couldn't see any. Grabbed my 12V battery and some wire clips and went for the pump (in tank) forced it to run for a bit, then checked under the car, then forced it again, then checked under the hood.

i looked all over the injectors, fuel rail, fuel lines.... couldn't see a single wet spot. Any advice?

 

hptuners. are you Open loop or what is your setup? I have a custom 2 bar operating system on mine. I don't do my tuning all of the time, and once I was setup the first time I went back and looked at things..from what I remember we set PE ~11.5 AFR and it kicks in early as we are just using it for fueling, we watched the VE values (after raising them a good bit) my highest VE is 113. We tweaked them by looking at the trims. Hope I helped.... I'm not 100% certain that was all thats involved. I may be able to answer better after dynoing tomorrow

 

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