STS install pics... and stuff...
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 152
Likes: 17
From: Saskatchewan, Canada
ZL1Killa - Thanks for all your posts. I've been working through my build (Under the Canadian Member section) and had gone through your thread a few years back. I finally after 5 years of tinkering/fabricating and tuning am happy with the rear mount setup.
I am going to do my final dyno session within a weeks time and then leave the car for a full year to simply enjoy (unless there are issues/breaks/etc).
There are tons of members out there with rear mounts facing several challenges with their systems and with posts like this, hopefully we are able to help them save time and energy with problem solving some of the quirky bits.
What were your final dyno numbers at with your setup (if different from your sig)?
Have you run your car at the track...if so, what was your 1/4 et and mph through the trap?
What tire size and brand are you running on the rear of your car?
Ryan
I am going to do my final dyno session within a weeks time and then leave the car for a full year to simply enjoy (unless there are issues/breaks/etc).
There are tons of members out there with rear mounts facing several challenges with their systems and with posts like this, hopefully we are able to help them save time and energy with problem solving some of the quirky bits.
What were your final dyno numbers at with your setup (if different from your sig)?
Have you run your car at the track...if so, what was your 1/4 et and mph through the trap?
What tire size and brand are you running on the rear of your car?
Ryan
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,747
Likes: 0
From: NC - Charlotte area
Well, after a long while, I finally got the car back on the dyno.
654HP & 688TQ @ 13psi
6.0L LS2 w/ LS6 untouched heads
Forged Rods & Pistons
Turbonetics TC76 Turbo
Limiting factor is Turbo and/or heads. Would make more power, but not spending more $$. Really happy with this setup. Look at how the HP flatlines. will post dyno graph this afternoon
654HP & 688TQ @ 13psi
6.0L LS2 w/ LS6 untouched heads
Forged Rods & Pistons
Turbonetics TC76 Turbo
Limiting factor is Turbo and/or heads. Would make more power, but not spending more $$. Really happy with this setup. Look at how the HP flatlines. will post dyno graph this afternoon
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,747
Likes: 0
From: NC - Charlotte area
Don't have the $$ to upgrade to the next level as in reality, I would need a newer transmission, new clutch, new heads, ? new manifolds?, ? new turbo?, new crank (still stock ls1)
The original intention of this car was to make ~550rwhp... so it has more than fulfilled the power I wanted to make.
Crank - ~$9xx
Heads - ~$1800
manifolds - ~$ ? (custom built)
clutch - $1100
...not happening.
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,747
Likes: 0
From: NC - Charlotte area
The turbo....F1-68 w/60 series housing (compact- TC) is what is holding me back. I could swap to the full housing and gain some... or swap out to the F1-75. Who wants to throw me a bone? LOL.
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,747
Likes: 0
From: NC - Charlotte area
People with new AFTERMARKET torque arms, whether chassis mount or transmission mount. always check throughout the entire length of your driveshaft to torque arm the distance between the two. The need to be as parallel as they can. You can achieve this, depending on the torque arm, but in my case SPOHN, to completely fit my 12 bolt correctly, you have to completely cut the first set of bolt holes off.
2nd best information ever. Learn how to and assembly & disassemble your rear end no matter the cost/time/effort. For nearly 2 years my rearend was setup wrong, barely tightened bolts/nuts, and the crush washer/pinion was never preloaded/tightened. FML.
I have now ordered all new bearings and parts/pieces from Moser for my rearend and completely torn apart and put back together, all vibrations gone and no noisy rearend. Spent from Friday at 4pm till Sunday at 5pm....I must say well worth it though. Nearly a completely new car after fixing all the crap. If you get an assembled rear end, DO NOT TRUST IT. CHECK everything for yourself
2nd best information ever. Learn how to and assembly & disassemble your rear end no matter the cost/time/effort. For nearly 2 years my rearend was setup wrong, barely tightened bolts/nuts, and the crush washer/pinion was never preloaded/tightened. FML.
I have now ordered all new bearings and parts/pieces from Moser for my rearend and completely torn apart and put back together, all vibrations gone and no noisy rearend. Spent from Friday at 4pm till Sunday at 5pm....I must say well worth it though. Nearly a completely new car after fixing all the crap. If you get an assembled rear end, DO NOT TRUST IT. CHECK everything for yourself
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,747
Likes: 0
From: NC - Charlotte area
holy thread resurrection. New updates for this build.
* Going to Advanced Induction for their full 232cc CNC porting package
* replacing factory rockers with new units (undetermined yet)
* replacing factory radiator (either Griffin or Ron Davis)
* replacing transmission with TR6060 - Tick Performance
* replacing clutch with Monster twin disc
* replacing injectors with 1000cc, lowering fuel pressure to 43.5psig from 58 to get more flow from pumps
* replacing turbo with Work Turbochargers custom S300SX
* getting some intake tubing re-worked/fixed
* Going to Advanced Induction for their full 232cc CNC porting package
* replacing factory rockers with new units (undetermined yet)
* replacing factory radiator (either Griffin or Ron Davis)
* replacing transmission with TR6060 - Tick Performance
* replacing clutch with Monster twin disc
* replacing injectors with 1000cc, lowering fuel pressure to 43.5psig from 58 to get more flow from pumps
* replacing turbo with Work Turbochargers custom S300SX
* getting some intake tubing re-worked/fixed
Last edited by ZL1Killa; Sep 10, 2017 at 02:38 PM. Reason: bullets
holy thread resurrection. New updates for this build.
* Going to Advanced Induction for their full 232cc CNC porting package
* replacing factory rockers with new units (undetermined yet)
* replacing factory radiator (either Griffin or Ron Davis)
* replacing transmission with TR6060 - Tick Performance
* replacing clutch with Monster twin disc
* replacing injectors with 1000cc, lowering fuel pressure to 43.5psig from 58 to get more flow from pumps
* replacing turbo with Work Turbochargers custom S300SX
* getting some intake tubing re-worked/fixed
* Going to Advanced Induction for their full 232cc CNC porting package
* replacing factory rockers with new units (undetermined yet)
* replacing factory radiator (either Griffin or Ron Davis)
* replacing transmission with TR6060 - Tick Performance
* replacing clutch with Monster twin disc
* replacing injectors with 1000cc, lowering fuel pressure to 43.5psig from 58 to get more flow from pumps
* replacing turbo with Work Turbochargers custom S300SX
* getting some intake tubing re-worked/fixed
So looks like your build is taking a drastic uptick 😊 what are you looking to do with it now?
People with new AFTERMARKET torque arms, whether chassis mount or transmission mount. always check throughout the entire length of your driveshaft to torque arm the distance between the two. The need to be as parallel as they can. You can achieve this, depending on the torque arm, but in my case SPOHN, to completely fit my 12 bolt correctly, you have to completely cut the first set of bolt holes off.
2nd best information ever. Learn how to and assembly & disassemble your rear end no matter the cost/time/effort. For nearly 2 years my rearend was setup wrong, barely tightened bolts/nuts, and the crush washer/pinion was never preloaded/tightened. FML.
I have now ordered all new bearings and parts/pieces from Moser for my rearend and completely torn apart and put back together, all vibrations gone and no noisy rearend. Spent from Friday at 4pm till Sunday at 5pm....I must say well worth it though. Nearly a completely new car after fixing all the crap. If you get an assembled rear end, DO NOT TRUST IT. CHECK everything for yourself
2nd best information ever. Learn how to and assembly & disassemble your rear end no matter the cost/time/effort. For nearly 2 years my rearend was setup wrong, barely tightened bolts/nuts, and the crush washer/pinion was never preloaded/tightened. FML.
I have now ordered all new bearings and parts/pieces from Moser for my rearend and completely torn apart and put back together, all vibrations gone and no noisy rearend. Spent from Friday at 4pm till Sunday at 5pm....I must say well worth it though. Nearly a completely new car after fixing all the crap. If you get an assembled rear end, DO NOT TRUST IT. CHECK everything for yourself
