STS install pics... and stuff...
Don't just settle for the "aww yeh I tightened it". Hope to dyno my setup when I get home in another month.
Have a forged 347 in the works right now. After a bit of a break-in, on to the rear mount
Think I've been up and down this great thread about 20 times now. Props on the build and progress. I read the whole thing and gave me alot to keep in mind. On a side note, ive read of people doing stand alone oil systems with the turbos. You ever consider or even done this yet? I kinda like the idea of the turbo having its own oil and not having to tap into the block keeping engine temp away from the turbo AND if the turbo fails no shavings into the blocks oil. PLUS!! lol no need for miles of oil lines going to and from the turbo in the rear. the only thing is would the turbo get hot enough or does the exhaust do a good enough job? I gues the question is what temp is a good temp for the turbo and oil? Was wondering what you thought since you think out side the turbo box lol
OH and seeign how your set up doesnt have the new 3 point charge pipe, have you considered SFC? and if so, have you ever wondered how to keep regualr 2PT SFC with the STS intalled?
Last edited by JoshuaGrooms83; Jan 9, 2011 at 02:48 PM.
NOt my car, just a car i found on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pC5KKhZBx0M
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I dont expect 800hp out of this thing, but 400-500 is good enough for me with a good 3200 or 3400 TC. should be a fun ride lol. If i get it, im going to figure out a way to keep my driverside SFC. im gonna figure it out. unless somone has do it, im gonna figure it out. But back to the car. thanks a lot for the words, it has been a long haul and well worth it now. To answer your question about a separate oil system & etc questions. I have thought about it...and I have also tried my best to raise the turbo up. If I were to do it again I may have gone separate, which you would have to use some kind of pump to move the oil at around 40psi to the turbo and you would still need a way of scavenging the oil away from the turbo, which with that you try and keep the kinks, turns, height rise to a minimum. Now if you had a scavenge pump right off the outlet of the turbo this wouldn't be a big deal. So basically if I cut my rear section out for the T-tops, mounted the turbo up there setup a system in that area and then sealed it off and used some sound deadening material all is good. this is probably similar to what Paul Major did.
Your statement about the turbo getting hot enough, etc. You absolutely MUST WRAP your exhaust & turbo blanket. I installed manifolds back on my car and it was a night and day difference. It was really nice, as I bought brand new ones and coated them myself & put heat shields on them.
Sub Frame connector Question:
I will definitely have to look into the new STS cold pipe piece. Very interested in this, as I know my chassis is not liking me right now. I have dimples above my rear tires on my body panels and from experience & others it isn't due to me banging on it...chassis flexing.
Preferred turbo... well in my experience, and from talking to Turbonetics & Jose @ Forced Inductions & looking at the LS1 airflow & power a 60mm turbo of any sort is a freaking joke for our cars. they might be perfect for a smaller motor, but for the mighty LS1 they are a joke.
MINIMUM size I would start out with on a slightly bolt-on LS1 would be a ball bearing (high quality) 67mm turbo and if stock pistons, rings, rods, etc. I would NOT run more than 7psi of boost.
MAXIMUM size I would say for most daily drivers & NOT HEAVILY MODDED CARS I would end up with, lets say a car that has new heads (AFR 225 or similar) , new cam, forged components, maybe even a slightly bigger motor, would be a 76mm ball bearing turbo and the boost level would depend on the setup. I'm running ~10~10.8psi right now.
The selection of the turbo will GREATLY (duh) affect your car & its power. You make a shitty selection of a turbo and you will get mostly shitty results. Sorry, it is what it is.
Another thing is, STS piping is 2.25 inches; it would be nice if it was all 2.5 inch, as this would directly match up to the TC76 factory unit output.
Another thing is if you have a nicely done engine & car, I would recommend the upgrade race package on that 76mm turbo. Speak to Jose @ forced inductions if you are curious...that 76mm will pickup a good bit by doing this upgrade, however, the output goes from a 2.5 inch to a 3 inch. Wow momma.... LOL.
If you want low 500-ish horsepower, get a 67mm
If you want a mid to upper 500-ish horsepower get a 72mm ~ 76mm turbo (even 600hp)
If you want 700+hp ... well talk to Jose @ forced Inductions... LOL. I haven't experienced this, but he would be your best advisor. I would have to guess you would be in the 80mm+ territory.
If you can get a ball bearing turbo, get it. and as far as an oil restrictor, you won't need it unless the turbo manufacturer says they want one, or you are running greater than 75~80psi oil pressure.

Going to start chatting to my dyno guy and see when we can get this thing in for some fun.
but im not a big drag racer, more into RR so a 10bolt saves some weight. Just gotta be gentle lol. Got a 3200 stall coming though so this should wake up the car up by its self
Im looking into fuel upgrades. WIth what id like to see, 60# injectors and a walbro (possibly duals) pump. Looking into the mocal oil pump too. Ive been reading up on the junkyard site for rear turbo setups. I plan on running the intake up into the filler neck area and semi sealing it off. Ill vent it so it doesnt become a source of restriction. Im still gonna try and figure out how to make it work with my current subframe connectors. I started looking into running a reverse dual set up. Instead of a true dual exhaust... one is the exhaust, the other is the intake. Of course alot of custom fabing would be involved. just trying to figure it out. Gotta get the kit here first
im definatly gonna refine the self contained oil system. If procharger can do it, a rear turbo can do it
With this a better oil can be introduced to help save the life of the turbo longer. either a good synthetic 10w30 or somthing that works better then the regular 5w30. even a turbo specific gear oil or somthing. AND a cooler too with a sump, like 2 or 3 quarts. (the kit im getting is modified so its almost all there)lots of plans in the works for the birdy. Some laps at the nurnburgring, german racewars (drag), and try and get some dyno runs(got to to tune it i suppose)
If necessary, grab a beer, a friend and spend some time away from it, then come back and things will dawn on you.
Hey real quick, sorry to bug you so much im just trying to get a n idea of how to keep this system running right.
For a STOCK ls1 at 5ish PSI, an Intercooler, T70 turbo, and 42lb injectors (for now)
what do i want my AIT? and also whats a safe A/F ratio? Im getting a wideband A/F gauge and boost gauges to keep a close eye on it.
I used a Turbowerx scavenge pump, the 12V DC version. comes with a 5 year warranty. It is kind of expensive, and they do make a cheaper version that I think is $2xx I remember mine was $350 I believe.
Hey real quick, sorry to bug you so much im just trying to get a n idea of how to keep this system running right.
For a STOCK ls1 at 5ish PSI, an Intercooler, T70 turbo, and 42lb injectors (for now)
what do i want my AIT? and also whats a safe A/F ratio? Im getting a wideband A/F gauge and boost gauges to keep a close eye on it.
You don't want intake temps staying or going above 130+, obviously on a HUGE pull they will approach that easily. I'm running an 11.5 AFR and 16 degrees timing at ~10:1 compression
You will also be safe on 7psi with a stock ls1, but absolutely NO MORE. and be DAMN SURE TO USE COLDER PLUGS!!! me likeys NGK TR6 (especially the iridium) I have a buddy that works at an Auto parts store, so I can get them a dollar off






