Damn, thats some good looking work on that car!! I wonder who did all that?


Looks good man!

Zach

 

thanks man, just had my first oil change after 550 miles and everything looks great. Normal shavings, about 1/2 a tsp worth on the magnet.

Rearend is doing good also, slightly whines at 50-60 mph, but is quieter than my 10 bolt was.


LMAO, I gotta say, Heintz did a great job with the motor & installing all my new goodies. Everything was a tight fit and things went in the right places and I don't have any rubbing issues or leaks.


Working on getting the turbo raised up, IC fan installed, and complete exhaust wrap.

Then time for dyno

 

in driveway looking at turbo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HGNeDDdc70

cruising by with rev
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-tLmPDfxKE

 

i would like to see how you routed your pipe from the discharge of the turbo under the axle and over to the pipe that runs along the rocker.

showing clearances and how it looks from the side of the car, etc...

 

will do. give me this weekend and i'll have them up by Sunday.
Checked clearances, everything can easily come up one inch, probably an inch and a quarter.

 

Ok, so the red circled parts are the rotor stud holes.
The yellow parts are my studs that are sticking through the rotor (for example). In reality some are centered with the rotor holes, other studs are to one side or the other

the holes for my studs ON THE ROTOR are WAY LARGER then my studs.

when I bought the 12 bolt, i bought studs from moser that are factory size, which is 12 mm X 1.5 pitch commonly marketed as M12X1.5.
Which the studs do measure correctly to that spec, however my rotor holes are ~0.612 inches ----> 12mm is 0.472 .........so YEH.

well after examining my studs, i have several bent ones.

 

does the factory rearend (10 bolt) axles & studs have something that helps the rotor fit better such as a flare or taper?

 

i bet when I'm braking, all of my rotor holes are out far enough that the rotor is slamming on the studs and causing a stud or two to bend

 

No. NO. no.

Alrighty, fully investigated this ENTIRE crap.
So wheels are pulled off, pulled the brake pads & etc off. Stared at the rotor on the studs.

So I had all of my brakes transferred to the 12 bolt; nothing changed there. Same rotors, same pads, etc.

The ROTOR stud holes are ALL 0.63 roughly on ALL the holes.
The STUDS are 12mm, or 0.472

So, I was told that my rotors were the problem. So I then investigated how the STUDS were in each rotor hole.

On the left (drivers side) of the car, the studs are sticking through the rotor and touching the rotor at damn near 12 o'clock per each hole center line, towards the outside.. In other words, all the studs are centered with each rotor hole correctly. AND while holding the brake rotor by hand & having someone else try to rotate the studs on the rotor, it moves freely.

On the right (passenger side) of the car, the studs are sticking through the rotor and touching the rotor at all various positions, anywhere from 2'oclock till 10'oclock. Attempting to hold the rotor on the passenger side axle and then have someone rotate the rotor is a no go. It will not rotate.
and the rotor is hard to put on and remove (yes, the parking brake is released AND is not part of the problem removing the rotor)

So then I think, ok, the rotor holes are out of whack. So I pull the driver side rotor off, and put it on the passenger side that is giving me the problem.
Same result with the opposite side rotor on the passenger side.

So I then take the passenger side rotor and put on the drivers side. Studs line up at 12'oclock just as the other rotor did. Well what in the sam hell.

Swap them again and look at them. passenger side is a problem still. So I punch the stud out that keeps bending. hole appears to be fine, no burs. pull a new one in that is straight.

put everything back together and tightened up the wheels. I'll be durned if all of a sudden I look at the lugs & studs in the wheel and I have a bent stud from simply torquing the wheels on the car ON THE LIFT without subjecting the studs to a severe load.
Explain to me how the rotor is the problem if I can torque the wheel up and it bends a stud. I also believe that the axle hole is drilled sideways.
The AXLE is the problem. Will take up with Moser this next week.


ALSO, I was told that the rotors are the problem as they should be more of a tolerance towards the studs, well I will guarantee you that if you look at passenger vehicles on the road today, that ALL or damn near all rotor holes for the studs are LARGER than the studs. The rotors are simply along for the ride, now if a single stud is the only one touching the rotor and the rotor shifts for whatever reason, then yes it could also cause bending.

and I'm going to order a full set of ATE rotors & Hawk HPS pads here shortly from Sam Strano, that have more of a tolerance towards the studs (0.472 in) and I'm going to even see if I can get the rotor on the passenger side, but in the meantime will see about those ATE rotors

 

So the axle flange isn't drilled correctly?

 

that is the conclusion we have arrived at.

 

hey its been a while since i've been on the forum. thanks for the help when i was setting up my system. sadly i think it was october i blew a piston ring and rod bearing while tuning my kit, amongst the other issues i had (like blowing my turbo off the back of my car x3) but now shes in the shop getting ready for a massive overhaul. forged 383 stroker, billet t76 w/.81ar, sts "biggest" comp cam, prc 2.5 cnc heads, upgraded oil pump n timing chain, walboro 255, spec stage 2 clutch (might need the 3) alum flywheel, bigger bigger injectors, and i'm probably gonna pick up a fast 102 with billet rails. i want to get it to 14 psi, but i'll be happy with starting at 10. we'll see what problems come up when they start the rebuild. the vids you put up have me super stoked to drive her once i get home from the s**thole i'm currently in.

 

This thing is cool!

 

Saweet. you will want spec stage 3 or 3+, maybe even 4 with an adjustable master cylinder. I wish I had gone with a 3/3+ or more; the key with the higher stages is an adjustable master cylinder

Get a custom cam from PAtrick G if you can, or if you are happy with that cam stick with it. You will need more than a single walbro 255 pump; grab a Bosch 044 pump, its external, but Heintz Racing set me up with their external kit with my internal 255 and everything works great. It costs the same as other "kits" external. Grab some 63LB siemens injectors you will love ~12psi+.


I'm running the HPTuners custom OS 2 bar setup; which limits me to 15psi; HOWEVER, my engine compression is 10:1; as my intentions are to run it at 12psi and leave it for a fun DD. May dyno at 12+ and see what she makes but will leave it at 12 on the street. Still running pump gas 93; I do have access to 100 but at 5.99 a gallon and always having to run that is crap.
I'm running my 11.7psi spring now, and it has 1,500 miles on it and I just got into it the other day (also checking everything while doing so) and all is good and I tell ya 7psi in 1st gear is awesome!!!!
Then ~11psi in 2nd is SSSAAAWWWEEEETTT!

 

Rear to Front











There is currently an almost 2 inch gap between the rear-end axle housing & sway bar to the intake tubing

AND, I did finish wrapping all that exhaust. I took the pictures, and then looked on the garage shelf and saw my wrap sitting there. then I wrapped it. Even just from the y-pipe up makes a significant difference, I was surprised.

 

I have been told that my bending stud problem is:
- rotor holes too large & rotor is moving and bending stud(s)
- passenger side axle is 2nd to engage & that shock is causing it
- stud retention

after all we are only human, so of course everything is perfect. We also check all our products that come out of manufacturing.

stop making excuses. The stud holes in the axle hub are drilled out of SAE & GM bolt pattern standard for this car. It is completely out of tolerance on definitely 3 studs, possibly 4 out of 5. Can't tell whether the last 2 are out, but can definitely tell that 3 are out.

 

well after having moser send a new axle and tearing all of this out; 4 out of 5 of the stud holes in the hub were out.

I will upload pictures when I get back home, but the new axle is in and works great. However, when we pulled the previous axle out at the shop, we happend to take a picture inside of the rear end axle tube and it looks as if one of the bearing holders inside the axle is cracked. Will be submitting picture to moser to see what they think. In the end of all this, we may be taking this ENTIRE rear apart AGAIN to check to make sure EVERYTHING is ok. After submitting pictures to moser of the mis-drilled holes, they still didn't believe me and even the shop who I bought it from didn't believe me.

Having my dads friends at work with a CNC machine & Moser giving all the details of the GM bolt pattern to us, WE machined a template to go by that is within SAE standards & tolerances. This was done in about 45 minutes and stopped production at my dads work for this time. I have also taken time to take the car apart several times and investigate the holes & studs.

I'm now waiting on moser to re-imburse me for this mistake and upon further investigation & talk to moser, we may also be replacing that bearing in the axle tube.

 

Note that the 1 stud does line up to the new stud.
OLD AXLE on TOP

NEW AXLE on BOTTOM




REALLY? Couldn't this have been avoided?

 

man, no comments about moser or the rear end or anything... thinking yall hate me now.

 

Not much to say, it's one of those things I file away and I ever have a weird wheel fitment issue I'll remember your axle problem. Thanks for sharing that, it might help somebody in the future.