holy crap this is my third time trying to post this. so i pm'd you with my email and i took another look at the pump. its definitely three parts to it. the main pump has its own bracket with yellow and black wires. the second is smaller with white and black wires on its own bracket, the third part is copper/brass with two screws. it looks like it may be a check valve, its stamped "1 psi sts" the wiring harness looks like something chris burke made http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9aJFSpkxjtY . theres a relay, a resistor of some kind, and there are black white yellow brown green and purple wires.

 

OK, gotcha.

Alrighty, do you have the STS manual? if not I can email it to you (reply with your email address or PM me)

you are correct about the check valve. One part is the check valve like you describe that at 1 psi of boost it closes your breather to your intake and vents the engine. You can discard this if you have a pcv setup of your own that has a 1 way valve, and you just don't connect those wires.

ALSO, I recommend running the STS oil scavenge pump on full ALL THE TIME. Either that or buy a new scavenge pump.


the second is smaller with white and black wires on its own bracket,

the red text above, you are speaking about the device that is inline with the pump to kick it into high gear, Just leave it out and leave the resistor out of the wires so you can run it in full mode all the time.

Hope this helps.

-Stephen

PS - holler if you need anything else or if I left something out

 

do you have any pictures or info on which green/white wire in the PCM youre supposed to T-Tap into? i think i tapped into the wrong green/white one because it made my speedo go whacko lol, theres like 3 different green/white wires coming out of the lower pcm harness, btw my camaro is an 02

 

it should tell you in the sts manual, those wires also should have numbers / terminal numbers on them or something at the base...such as a pinout.

sorry if my response is crap right now, I had some people other than myself work on my car, and the one set of people came through, but right now I have a cracked transmission by the drain plug...and I'm slowly seeping out tranny fluid drop by drop.

I got a serious phone call to make Monday....

 

ok, where in the sam hell can you get a tail housing for a t-56 transmission these days....

I have already called & been through 3 vendors and they have no idea what I'm talking about and they were listed as distributors.

I called Wednesday, and as it traded hands, no one accepts responsibility.

 

ok JB weld for now fixed everything.

After the Food Lion Autofair (showing with Traid Fbody) this weekend (Saturday & Sunday I will be showing) I'm going to in the next few weeks re-dyno at my ~7.3psi and see what she makes, then based on that, I'm going to send off my exhaust housing to HPC and get it ceramic coated & also send off my injectors to get flowmatched.

I will upload the graph when we get done with the dyno.

 

im also interested in those numbers with t60 on 8# spring . mine is a frount mount and i have 8 and 10 pound spring ,but the car is not done . i would realy like to see what your turbo maxes out at .

 

I have my 6psi graph at home, will upload when I get a chance, however I had some seals that were leaking. Got that all fixed now and I will re-upload a graph when I re-dyno.

Went to Z-max dragstrip and unfonrtunately was only able to run on street tires, I'm looking into purchasing two rims & some Nittos (or similar) to have some traction better than street tires.

HOWEVER, being now at nearly 9psi (woops) thanks to an 11.7psi spring; the car absolutely halls *** when boost comes in. AFR is at ~11.5, 18 degrees timing. Stock bottom end, stock internals (woops), lol.

trapped 119.26 MPH in the quarter.... lets leave the rest up to talk.
I then went back & looked at my log.... and looks like I'm going to be due for some changes in the close future.



Duty cycle up high, averaging ~82~85. Don't pay attention to some of the numbers, my exhaust clamp fell out towards the end of the track.

I'm going to get a chance and test & check these values shortly just to double check. I will probably pick up some 50# (actual 57.7#@58psi) injectors or 55#(actual 63#@58psi)
and have them flow matched locally also.

If you look at the LB/MIN of airflow.....well this little 60mm garrett journal bearing turbo supposedly maxes out at 63LB/min of airflow...

I plan on the injector &/OR pump upgrade to a Walbro 340 possibly, installing my IC fan & switch, and tearing my turbo apart to investigate & inspect sometime between now & January 2010.

If the turbo is ok or there is some turbo I have found that is WAY better, perhaps ball bearing & just a tad more airflow, etc. I will probably upgrade & get the exhaust housing ceramic coated, wrap all I can to keep heat in and re-dyno & re-visit the track

 

watching my fuel pressure gauge.... my pressure drops from 58psi idle & part load down to 50psi and STAYS!!!

eeek. Looks like its time for a pump upgrade or to at least try the boost a pump..probably do that first.

 

Are you running a Walbro already? Or a dual setup? Are you aware that a boost-a-pump just raises the voltage to the pump? Just asking.

 

Running the racetronix 255 pump & hotwire kit. Wouldn't doing the BAP increase the pumps capability slightly?

At this point I'm shootin for a walbro 340 & 55LB injectors.

 

If you are running the Racetronix kit, you already have a Walbro 255lph pump, but with a venturi. Also modified to be a direct fit. IIRC, the Walbro 340 is also a 255lph pump, so I'm a bit confused there afa what the advantage would be.
The hotwire kit you already have boosts the voltage at the pump from ~13v to around 14.5v. The boost-a-pump will increase that voltage a bit more, from ~+2v to ~+4v. So it will make your pump motor spin faster, so volume will increase. It seems to me that that would put further strain on the pump, but I have no data to back that up. But you get to keep the stock bucket, and I have also read that you can activate the boost-a-pump with a Hobbs switch, just like a second pump system.
A correctly implemented 2 pump system, OTOH, will increase volume only when needed, b/c it is only switched on under boost, but will not increase voltage to either pump, possibly extending their lifetime. However, b/c you have the Racetronix venturi model, I have read that you have to replace it also, which adds to the total cost. But I have not seen one properly implemented which retains the stock bucket.

 

wait a minute... so what do people replace the 255 pump with?

The walbro 340 is also a 255 pump? you don't pick up any volume? thats crap, why even have a 255 & a 340?

well, whats my next step up, an Aeromotive 1000? LOL. Looking at 55# injectors, already got those picked out.

 

guys/ladies; I will do a write up & pictures as usual when I finish this fuel mod MightyMouse has written up. LS1Tech FTW!!! great freaking resources!!

Mods coming up:
DIY twin 255 pumps (i think)
50# injectors
Intercooler fan w/switch
Possibly upgrade turbo

PIctures & info to follow. (This may take a while)

 

This is on the car as it stands right now, AFR 11.0 duty cycle 88% on injectors, 11.6 large red tialsport wastegate spring. Previous log on the car resulted in a 63.43LB/min of airflow, maxing out the 60mm journal bearing turbo I have.

I previously replaced my exhaust gaskets as the kooks ones were completely broken, so I noticed a hell of a difference then. My exhaust has no leaks now. Previously, with my 8.7psi spring, I was only seeing 5…but this was due to leaky exhaust.
With that now fixed & my 11.6 psi spring in the car, I figured there would still be losses through the piping & intercooler……well…….


Well ladies & gents…. As I grab a pair of truly calibrated pressure gauges & hook them up, each from 0-10psi; one measuring crankcase pressure, and one measuring intake pressure. I take the car out for a spin and watch these gauges.

The Boost pressure maxes out the 10psi gauge….and the crankcase pressure maxes out the 10 psi gauge…. EEEEK.

What happened to pressure loss? I am simply running off the wastegate spring..I would have thought there would be a pressure loss. Are the springs manufactured with that much play in them?

Brought the car home, she has oil on her oil pan and coated various other places….looks like we are going to have to go SEAL hunting….


so now, we have a hell of a breather on the car, maintaining a .3 crankcase pressure MAX.
BUT we still have a SEAL problem.....

 

*going with twin 255 pumps, kit from lonnies performance (ordering within the next few weeks)

*building motor - nothing that we know of broke, ...besides the *********** spark plugs we had that the dick gave us at advance....don't want to risk it with these pistons & rods...especially if it goes it destroys the block...

*now running NGK TR7 plugs as per reading their documents, we are at about 400 RWHP N/A and about 550+ Boosted. It was an interesting read.

*Purchasing moser 12 bolt rearend w/all accessories

*Ceramic coating my 60mm turbo exhaust housing

*60#/hr injectors

*LS6 heads

Hopefully have it together & running again by February/mid-February.

Hopefully have it semi-broken in halfway through the year, bump up the boost to 12psi, get her on the dyno and see what we make. May even upgrade the turbo to a 67mm, as at this point I can guarantee I will outflow my 60mm.....I believe I already am...63.4LB/Min as of our last pull on the street.

 

so what im not still getting is, do i still need to convert to the ls6 pcv system with a catch can?

 

depends. you want to maintain less than a 1psi or so crankcase pressure (preferably negative, but thats not going to happen in real life.) The only reason the catch can is there is to catch oil/blow by..etc from getting back into the intake. Some people have problems with this, some don't. I haven't had a problem with oil back through the intake.

All I have done is improve engine breathing through the center of the engine by having the new LS6 valley cover installed. The ls1 breathes through only both valve covers & it is a Y connection, I believe with a 3/8 size tube??...
Improving breathing & ensuring no boost gets into the crankcase is a great idea.

 

well, building the engine for boost. ended up with a lot of "Water" in the oil...so somethings wrong. caught it sooner than later & made it to my shop.

will post up later upgrades & details.

 

ok ladies & gentlemen, with the onslaught of emails & requests I get for the STS manual, I'm going to have to stop emailing it. It has also been many years since they have first came out (my version) and their new version that has many differences & upgrades.

I recommend either requesting a manual or do something else. I simply cannot keep up & it is time consuming...with it also by now having had many changes.

I apologize for the inconvenience, however I would bet that someone has updated manuals or STS has a PDF version all in one by now...i mean get with the technology...LOL.