Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

STS install pics... and stuff...

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Old 11-21-2007, 04:50 PM
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Surprised sts doesn't use t-bolt clamps... not sure why they continue to use worm clamps. For 4 g's, I would want t's, but clean install man!
Old 11-21-2007, 06:58 PM
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Yah i was just gonna say the same thing...I dont understand why they dont use T-bolts. When I first made my turbo kit, i used all regular hose clamps like the STS kit and i ended up replacing every clamp with a T-bolt....Once over 9psi, I would just keep blowing the couplers off because the regular hose clamps loosin up under boost.
Old 11-21-2007, 07:34 PM
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I have one of the first kits. It had tbolt clamps where they could be seen, and worm gear clamps where they could not be seen. When I go through the system this winter, I am going all tbolt clamps. Much better, not much money. Kind of like not providing isolation washers for the oil pump; save a nickel here, a dime there...
Old 11-21-2007, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ZL1Killa
Ok got a question, EPP and TRT from what it looks like use the same style IC, end tanks on each end level with each other then there is PTSs' IC with the end tanks one on the top side and one on the bottom side
which one is more efficient thermodynamics wise... what im asking is what would dissipate and lower the intake temps more efficiently

PTS http://www.proturbokits.com/store/sc...?idproduct=193

SAME
EPP http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=655
TRT http://www.trtturbo.com/LS1FMIC.html

I realize the difference in the surface area...but what i'm talking about is the way the air flows through the IC
And also with the EPP and TRT kit, you cut the front brace ... doesn't this take away from the structural ridgidity of the car/frame? my car is a daily driver and IF i was to get backed into or something happen to the front in a wreck...i don't want an intercooler slammed into my motor and then my motor be slammed into me in the car
Thermodynamically, the first one is the most efficient. Possibly it is more difficult to route the hoses? I never understood why they do that, it just does not make sense to me.
Yes, you are decreasing structural integrity, yet another reason to avoid a front mount on an fbody. But no one seems to care about safety in these installs.
Old 11-24-2007, 11:52 AM
  #145  
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does anyone have an employees number at PTS?? or someones cell at PTS... this is ridiculous
Old 11-26-2007, 11:01 AM
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anybody?? pm me maybe? PTS...hello? oh god do i want to take a flight to san antonio texas to go see them
Old 11-26-2007, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ZL1Killa
anybody?? pm me maybe? PTS...hello? oh god do i want to take a flight to san antonio texas to go see them
You aren't going to get a PM from them, They where banned on here a while back for many reasons including screwing customers. Forced Induction (sponser -->) still has there stuff up on their site. Maybe Dr Turbo can help if you give him a call.
Old 11-26-2007, 05:48 PM
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yeh well i need to get in touch with them...and i gotta send the rusted piping back... or just force them
Old 11-27-2007, 02:22 PM
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well its worth a try..searching for Dr Turbo
Old 11-27-2007, 02:28 PM
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No luck for us either man. We have tried calling them several times as well. No response from them to us.
Old 11-27-2007, 11:26 PM
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what they have listed on their website is San Antonio Texas.

the numbers listed on their website , both the fax and normal numbers:
210 265 1294
210 334 0094

point to: (searched using Switchboard.com)
Dalton Campbell
9743 Fortune Ridge Dr
Converse, TX 78109

Now thats not right.....LOL
Old 11-28-2007, 07:15 PM
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well... at least the core that I have isn't rusting and it is good

screw the piping... LOL
Old 11-29-2007, 09:08 AM
  #153  
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well, PTS can respond to an email in 1 day but can't return any phone calls....
Old 02-01-2008, 08:25 AM
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there are quite a few of you asking questions about this kit and installing it. I will get home this weekend and try and get some more pics up and type up some information on where and how things were hoooked up.

for the question of i have an automatic transmission, do i need a BOV? well... some people chime in here and tell what you think. I would think that you could still get a pressure surge and blow pipes off(in other words you still need a BOV)...but maybe thats just me
Old 02-01-2008, 11:40 AM
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go with a BOV.... your turbo will love you for it. i run one on my A4.
Old 02-01-2008, 11:42 AM
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Some will say yes, but the majority will say no(the throttle blade doesn't slam shut w/ an A4 like an M6 does when you engage the clutch between gears). I Personally am going to try w/o it.
Old 02-01-2008, 08:44 PM
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i will add some pictures and notes of where i tied things in...such as gauges, resistor value...yadda yadda tomorrow

just for common interest and questions
Old 02-03-2008, 01:11 AM
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the resistor value is a 2 ohm 50w. the factory resistor they give you is a 2 ohm 25w

by replacing their resistor with the one i mention, you can theoretically reduce its (the resistors) operating temp by half... but it doesn't exactly work out to half the temperature....somewhere around there
Old 02-23-2008, 04:51 PM
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per request of some people on ls1tech, here are some pictures that I had taken that show where the oil line and other wires are routed, including the Racetronix PnP wiring harness. I will add comments and what lines are what later.































Old 04-01-2008, 10:43 PM
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well, here is what we did get done with the IC... we cleaned these pipes up and coated them so they won't rust. here are some pics:


















Had to move the horns...gotta relocate em'

also doing all this cuz we gotta get ready for the car show this weekend

LOWES MOTOR SPEEDWAY

anyone gonna be there? I will be with the Triad Fbody group ..i think we are by or on pit road


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