STS install pics... and stuff...
Yah i was just gonna say the same thing...I dont understand why they dont use T-bolts. When I first made my turbo kit, i used all regular hose clamps like the STS kit and i ended up replacing every clamp with a T-bolt....Once over 9psi, I would just keep blowing the couplers off because the regular hose clamps loosin up under boost.
I have one of the first kits. It had tbolt clamps where they could be seen, and worm gear clamps where they could not be seen. When I go through the system this winter, I am going all tbolt clamps. Much better, not much money. Kind of like not providing isolation washers for the oil pump; save a nickel here, a dime there...
Ok got a question, EPP and TRT from what it looks like use the same style IC, end tanks on each end level with each other then there is PTSs' IC with the end tanks one on the top side and one on the bottom side
which one is more efficient thermodynamics wise... what im asking is what would dissipate and lower the intake temps more efficiently
PTS http://www.proturbokits.com/store/sc...?idproduct=193
SAME
EPP http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=655
TRT http://www.trtturbo.com/LS1FMIC.html
I realize the difference in the surface area...but what i'm talking about is the way the air flows through the IC
And also with the EPP and TRT kit, you cut the front brace ... doesn't this take away from the structural ridgidity of the car/frame? my car is a daily driver and IF i was to get backed into or something happen to the front in a wreck...i don't want an intercooler slammed into my motor and then my motor be slammed into me in the car
which one is more efficient thermodynamics wise... what im asking is what would dissipate and lower the intake temps more efficiently
PTS http://www.proturbokits.com/store/sc...?idproduct=193
SAME
EPP http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=655
TRT http://www.trtturbo.com/LS1FMIC.html
I realize the difference in the surface area...but what i'm talking about is the way the air flows through the IC
And also with the EPP and TRT kit, you cut the front brace ... doesn't this take away from the structural ridgidity of the car/frame? my car is a daily driver and IF i was to get backed into or something happen to the front in a wreck...i don't want an intercooler slammed into my motor and then my motor be slammed into me in the car
Yes, you are decreasing structural integrity, yet another reason to avoid a front mount on an fbody. But no one seems to care about safety in these installs.
Originally Posted by ZL1Killa
anybody?? pm me maybe? PTS...hello? oh god do i want to take a flight to san antonio texas to go see them
anybody?? pm me maybe? PTS...hello? oh god do i want to take a flight to san antonio texas to go see them
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what they have listed on their website is San Antonio Texas.
the numbers listed on their website , both the fax and normal numbers:
210 265 1294
210 334 0094
point to: (searched using Switchboard.com)
Dalton Campbell
9743 Fortune Ridge Dr
Converse, TX 78109
Now thats not right.....LOL
the numbers listed on their website , both the fax and normal numbers:
210 265 1294
210 334 0094
point to: (searched using Switchboard.com)
Dalton Campbell
9743 Fortune Ridge Dr
Converse, TX 78109
Now thats not right.....LOL
Thread Starter
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there are quite a few of you asking questions about this kit and installing it. I will get home this weekend and try and get some more pics up and type up some information on where and how things were hoooked up.
for the question of i have an automatic transmission, do i need a BOV? well... some people chime in here and tell what you think. I would think that you could still get a pressure surge and blow pipes off(in other words you still need a BOV)...but maybe thats just me
for the question of i have an automatic transmission, do i need a BOV? well... some people chime in here and tell what you think. I would think that you could still get a pressure surge and blow pipes off(in other words you still need a BOV)...but maybe thats just me
Some will say yes, but the majority will say no(the throttle blade doesn't slam shut w/ an A4 like an M6 does when you engage the clutch between gears). I Personally am going to try w/o it.
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i will add some pictures and notes of where i tied things in...such as gauges, resistor value...yadda yadda tomorrow
just for common interest and questions
just for common interest and questions
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the resistor value is a 2 ohm 50w. the factory resistor they give you is a 2 ohm 25w
by replacing their resistor with the one i mention, you can theoretically reduce its (the resistors) operating temp by half... but it doesn't exactly work out to half the temperature....somewhere around there
by replacing their resistor with the one i mention, you can theoretically reduce its (the resistors) operating temp by half... but it doesn't exactly work out to half the temperature....somewhere around there
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per request of some people on ls1tech, here are some pictures that I had taken that show where the oil line and other wires are routed, including the Racetronix PnP wiring harness. I will add comments and what lines are what later.
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well, here is what we did get done with the IC... we cleaned these pipes up and coated them so they won't rust. here are some pics:
Had to move the horns...gotta relocate em'
also doing all this cuz we gotta get ready for the car show this weekend
LOWES MOTOR SPEEDWAY
anyone gonna be there? I will be with the Triad Fbody group ..i think we are by or on pit road
Had to move the horns...gotta relocate em'
also doing all this cuz we gotta get ready for the car show this weekend
LOWES MOTOR SPEEDWAY
anyone gonna be there? I will be with the Triad Fbody group ..i think we are by or on pit road