I think its because you have to do some fabricating to make an F1 fit in a F-body so alot of people shy away from that.

 

What he said.

There is even an F1C (larger than the F1 and F1A) kit for the vettes, and they have more room to work with. It's a much tighter fit with the Fbods.

 

Bummer

wish there could be more out there on the streets!

 

thats not gonna stop some of us from building one. theres currently a few guys including myself that are building a F1 setup so stay tuned for some threads regarding the builds and numbers...

 

How much modification has to be done to get an F1 to fit on a f-body?

 

Its no problem putting an F1 or F1A on, here is what it loooks like. I just dont use it because I really dont need the extra air for what I'm doing (I just ran 9.18 @ 147 with a D1SC @ 15psi). With a 7.25/4" pulley on the F1A I was a little over 20psi @ 7000rpm so I hope you have a heck of an engine if you are bolting an F1R or F1C on

 

kp...did ya do any cutting or moving of the lower rad support and/or radiator???

i followed your thread where ya changed back to the D1 cause ya couldnt slow this F1 down enough...lol...im gonna be running it on a fully built 402 but i only wanted to run 15-16psi or so...you think this will be doable???
im afraid to run out of steam with a D1 and thats the only reason i wanna do an F1.

 

Hey KP what's w/ the extra filter on the inlet hat? You weren't getting enough airflow w/ one filter?

As far as F1's on LT1's you just have to cut a portion of the block and grind down the ABS bracket and 2 studs that's it. It'll fit as I have an F1.

 

The bottom of the rad support had to be trimmed (30 seconds with a sawzall) and the bottom of the radiator is moved forward a couple inches. I already moved the radiator forward from when I was fooling with different inlet elbows. The main problem with the F1 is where the inlet bolts on is about an inch further forward.

An F1 will work fine on a 402, dont let what I do dictate what you should do. Its a balancing act for me between the HP the blower uses, belt issues and IAT, I just like to play around and get the most I can out of the least - its easy to get the most out of the most. I run a very small overlap cam and am way more concerned with low/midrange power with very limited boost since I dont have the cubic inches to move a heavy car. Most guys use the bigger blower because they run big cams and cant make the power with the smaller head units, a blower can only move so much air no matter what you do. But there is a diminishing (not to mention belt issues) return by turning a big blower faster to make up for usable boost getting blown out the exhaust..

 

I hide my nitrous bottle in the big filter so I need that other one there

 

hey...thanx for the cut and dry explanation!! you have no idea how long ive been lookin for just that and people giving me the run around.

im not doin stuff based on what you do...i understand with differant engine set ups and cam selection will net you differant results...i just follow what you've done and the reasoning behind it and try to learn as much as i can. as far as real world experiance i would trust you over anyone else on the board...not that everyone else isnt as knowledgable...you've done it and i appreciate the info and insight you provide.

thanx!
Rick

 

Its a very simple thing but people like to make it complicated for some odd reason

I wasnt implying that you were following what I did, I just meant there is more then one way to achieve a goal and I take a somewhat convoluted approach at times because I just like to squeeze everything I can out of what I have and budget constraints - not because its the best way to do something really.

 

i knew exactly what you were saying....

 

F1A here @ 15lb boost 595 rwkw
8 rib belt with tensioner .
There are lots in oz changing to gilmer drives, I stumbled on a Ford Performance shop to pickup a catch can, not knowing they were all ford mad and they had the gilmer on everything P1sc, Disc & F1a, all making big mumbo too.