I bought a 98 Ws6 and stripped it down, im getting it ready(doing the 6.0l truck reverse manifolds turbo), i took off the A/c compressor and all the A/c stuff, all the brackets, so its coming along

Question one:
Who sells the relocation bracket for the alternator? or what thickness metal can i use to build my own?

Running a turbo by the belts will that cause the belts to melt or catch fire, if not whats the odds of the belt dry rotting and poping off?

i know i have more question im just drawing a blank at work.

Thanks
skeeter

 

um... i think you are referring to a supercharger?? or am i confusing myself with something... what kind of setup are you going to run??

there are superchargers --belt driven by the crank of the motor
turbochargers --exhaust driven by the motor

 

He's probably worrying about having a FM turbo that creates a lot of heat... If you're that worried about it I would just put a turbo blanket over it and if it were to get that hot I would be worrying about wiring getting fried too... I havne't heard about this being a problem...

 

i guess it depends how close you mount your turbo by your accessory belt, id try not to get it to close. but 3-4" away should be safe.

 

Just use a heat blanket...like the one below.

 

Thanks for the info guys,

and im running a turbo, i was just curious about the hot side if anyone knew of anyones serpintin belt catching on fire or melting since the turbos get pretty hot.

actually now that i think about it, why wont the stock ls1 exhaust manifolds work instead of getting 6.0l truck manifolds?

 

Because how would you route the exhaust to the turbo? If you keep the stock manifolds the only place for the turbo is the back and it becomes a rear mount. Unless you can fit the turbo underneath by the oil pan...which I doubt. I would stick with the 6.0L manifolds. How familiar are you with the truck manifold setups? The reason they work is because they are mounted in reverse and allow the turbo to sit up front. stock manifolds wont reverse like that.

Personally have never heard of belt catching fire...only high IATs

edit: Just realized you were actually asking if LS1 manifolds reverse.

 

OOO lol one more question?

Where is everyone locating there hard lines for the brakes? that thing is right in the way and ive seen some pics but nothing really showing where there re locating the whole unit?

Another good queston, is anyone still running there O2 sensors? i thought about just taking mine completly off.

 

You should also consider a tubular k-member.It free's up alot of space.Look into the sticky at the top of the page.there is alot of pic's and some writeup's for ya.

 

What i did was use the stock passenger manifold and ran the pipe down like normal and forward under the k member and meet up with the other pipe that is coming from a truck 6.0 manifold reversed (facing forward). Those two pipse cam be merged into the turbo either in front of the turbo (depending on the size of the turbo) and can also be run into the turbo if the turbo is sitting in the batteries usual spot.(relocate battery to the trunk obviously). I used two flexpipes on both crossovers so that the engine and exhaust setup have some movement. The passenger hot pipe going TO the turbo which uses a stock manifold and turns and goes under the kmember to the front of the car (either front of radiator or battery location) is a 2.5" pipe like the stock y-pipe. I cut a half circle into the kmember and reinforced it by welding HALF of a 3" pipe into it so that its still solid BUT allows for the exhaust to tuck and still have good clearance. The actual downpipe (3") runs right along the passenger crossover pipe and exits same way the passenger manifold runs to the turbo. So if you look under the car from the rear all you see is two pipe around the k member area and ONE exhaust pipe all the way back to the axle. It was pretty clean and had awesome clearance for a custom home made thing but i love the way the car runs its real solid on 8psi. Using a T70MasterPower w/ .96 rear housing. Also note that i had to BEND the lines on the driver side where you mentioned they were interfering which you have to be careful with cuz you obviously cant bend them too much, they'll break. Just bedn enough to get the clearance you need on the pipes. Also note that i kept full A/c and power steering and everything. I made my own bracket for the alternator and relocated it up on the passenger side cylinder head. Was throwing belts at the beginning at high rpm's but i adjusted everything and its all nice and tight now. Runs about 97mph in the 1/8 mile on a decent run. HOPE THIS HELPS & Good Luck on the build, should be great considering you dont have a/c and you say its pretty much your "race" car, no biggie

 

Thanks for the info, sounds like you got quite a race car yourself only you one up'd me with still having A/C lol

Well i guess its going to be a 6.0 truck exhaust unless i got remote, but remote is a little more than i care to mess with.

Sounds like most of the people on here relocating the alternator is have probs with the tensioner, is that due to it needs to be relocated itself or what?

Ive always been all motor so going FI is somthing new, but im sure ill love it much more than loping exhuast lol. cant wait for the first blow off!

 

fenix could you post up some pics. Sounds really good

 

The only belt issue i had was getting the altenator lined up correctly but that is taken care of now.no problem's anymore.