FI Maintenence/Problems
Im looking for a setup that I can put on and now have to worry about this...this car is my DD and I dont have time to be fixing all this stuff weekly....should I still try to go FI or should I just go a different route?
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=40 Bob
If you keep power down to a reasonable level 500-550 rwhp, I think it can be very reliable. You can make that on 7-9 lbs depending on your set-up. But once you get up to the 700+ range, 13+lbs, its a crap shoot in my opinion. The issue is that when you have a problem, it is ten times worse with boost. I watch the air/fuel as much as the road when I'm racing now because all it takes is one time for you to lean out and "pop" That doesn't happen with all-motor set-ups. You tune for 11.5a/f and you're fine. Then all of a sudden you're at 13.5a/f and your detonating like crazy. Tuned on motor you're at 13.0 to 13.5 (lol, I don't remember). If you go up to 15.0a/f its not nearly as big of a deal. You're engine can pull enough timing to save itself from itself. It can't pull enough timing in the world to save itself from 15lbs of boost being forced into the engine at 13.5a/f. I constantly check my coolant temp because you never know when you might blow a head gasket and push all the water out. I watch the oil pressure because you never know when you might spin a bearing or chew one up because you were detonating. Take it for what you will but its a risky game IMHO. I would bet that 94.9% of the people with FI cars have a second car they use for a DD or back-up. When I get my car running next time around (yes, it is down as we speak) I will drive it everyday that it is nice (and gas isn't $4.00/gallon). But I don't drive it on long trips, in the rain, in a lot of stop and go traffic.
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Rob
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Rob
thats exactly right......thats why im spending A LOT more money than some people might think necessary just on the engine. and just gonna run the pulley that comes with the ATI kit, around 8lbs. running AFR heads with rocker rails, and some more stuff, i dont want to be fixing things, i dont have the time for that. i rather be safe than sorry.
Rearend.
driveshaft
clutch.
Springs?struts?
r you buying a full procharger kit? New fuel pump?
The main prob is you get the BUG. You have to keep going faster and faster. With a d1sc kit and thats all your car will be just fine untill you breakl the rearend. Or you need a clutch. IF you want a no problems fast car go buy a new Z06. If your gonna FI a camaro or Firebird you better learn how to fix things.
Rearend.
driveshaft
clutch.
Springs?struts?
r you buying a full procharger kit? New fuel pump?
The main prob is you get the BUG. You have to keep going faster and faster. With a d1sc kit and thats all your car will be just fine untill you breakl the rearend. Or you need a clutch. IF you want a no problems fast car go buy a new Z06. If your gonna FI a camaro or Firebird you better learn how to fix things.
i think we all know those things HAVE to be upgraded. but i think the threadstarter was talking about just the engine or turbo/sc. u might not need to have a FI car to break some of those parts u mentioned. im getting a 427 with the D1 and probably wont drive it until i get more money to upgrade the tranny and drivetrain.
ok whatever. the **** will break and you will have to fix it. You can blow a hose rip a belt. Its going to cost alot of money to get a fbody FI'ed and not have to tweak on it all the time. try a p1sc kit and have bob do the work and tuning. Thats the way i would go.

If you have no problem doing the maintence to your car yourself than its not a big deal. If you have to have a dealer or shop check your oil for you then its going to be a big chore.
My SDCE/procharger set up was really worry free. Just change the charger's oil when I changed the engine oil....and that was about it. The SDCE kit is awesome for making s/c'er belts last a long time.
The turbo set up needs to be tended to a lil more often. Check all the hotside bolts from the headers to the crossover and anything inbetween quite often to avoid any exhaust leaks. Check the condition of the sparkplug wires since they are often really close to the exhaust manifolds. Check any hoses or wire harness that run too close to anything on the hotside for cracks or melting plastic. I do this monthly. Beat on the car and you'll have to let it cool down for a couple minutes before you turn it off so the oil doesn't cook onto the bearings.
As for the rest of the car, its the same no matter if you go with N2O, S/C'er, Turbo, or big power NA set up. You'll have to build the rest of the car to handle the added power or you WILL break stuff.
The TUNE has to be dead on, or if its on the edge or tuned a lil wacky and you'll be rebuilding the engine sooner than later.
Boils down to what you want to do and if you are serious about it, but most importantly can you afford to DO IT.
J


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