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1,000+rwhp & 6-speed

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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 01:35 PM
  #101  
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MM you been to the track alot lately and it is your dd.do you think a weekend car thats driven like every other saturday would be able to make those tires last 6 months or a year?
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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 02:34 PM
  #102  
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oh yes.

the life comes off mine during burnouts at the track.. cut that out of the equation and you should get 10,000 miles out of them.
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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 05:37 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by ninetres
I saw a video or two of his car and thought I remembered something about spinning. Also remember that in his posts. He had a big laggy turbo so that helps too.

Brake boosting a 893 whp car at 45mph on the street.....I need to be in the driver's seat myself to believe it. Not saying you're lying....just need to see it to believe it kinda thing.
You can believe as you will, I could care less, I know what happened

When I drove the car it had fresh BFG's.
As far as him spinning in his videos, that was on old *** 315 nittos(i would know, I was the one getting out on him for days ).
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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 07:06 PM
  #104  
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It must be different for the C5's... I dont see how you guys are getting traction at 1000rwhp. I can see the ones with the boost by gear getting it, but the ones w/out.. I would have to witness this for myself..
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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 07:07 PM
  #105  
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weight of the car and IRS will both influence traction......
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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 07:09 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by Tiago
weight of the car and IRS will both influence traction......
Are you saying because you are possibly heavier w/solid axle your traction is better? I can buy that..
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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 08:39 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by KissMySSo1
Tractions not as bad as you would think.. When my car made 803rwhp on pump gas it hooked in 1st gear with a 6 speed and 17" nitto drag radial. The new setup will make 1000+++ rwhp with a powerglide. We'll see how that works out!


power glide.......don't do it ...wrecks the car......alot less streetable and fun
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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 11:16 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by otherwhitemeat
power glide.......don't do it ...wrecks the car......alot less streetable and fun
I don't know, Kyle (NA$TY TA) seems to like his... He has a pretty nice setup that is decently light though... I think it's all relative though... I just went with a TH400 for consistency though... I hate changing clutches out and it doesn't matter which clutch you get you'll change them out about every 6 months or so if you go to the strip quite often...
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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 04:51 PM
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I been contiplating after market traction control system. I havent really been looking too hard yet, but I have priced them. I was gonna wait till I actually drive the car. I will however run an E-boost 2 w/setting for boost in each gear. Mine will be 95% street driven. IF I wanted a quicker car, I would run an auto w/ a T brake....... maybe a PG............ in a lighter car........... tubbed........Than I would probally have a car that will run deep into the 9's. But that is not what IM after. Just my .02

Ron
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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 06:12 PM
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The Racelogic traction control system is supposed to be excellent. Never used it myself though.

The ecu I use on my car has traction control built in. Obviously its up to the user to set it up though.

But as I have it, it is quite effective, at least in terms of making it safer to drive. Does it make it faster ? I never really drive it hard enough on the road to make full use of it.

With that sort of power, it would just be stupid to mess about like that.
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 07:23 AM
  #111  
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I really wanted to keep my car a 6 speed, but after blowing, burning, breaking almost every type of clutch sold out there and even when i found a clutch that held the power my damn T56 broke ON THE DYNO i threw the towel and went to a Auto. I think anything over 600rwhp should make the driver think of an AUTO because that would be the starting point of limited traction and very very fast RPM movement(depending on your final drive) and alot of broken drivetrain parts. Manuals also shocks the drivetrain more than an AUTO which is why some 6 speed cars breaks 12 bolts.
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 07:52 AM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by LSs1Power
I really wanted to keep my car a 6 speed, but after blowing, burning, breaking almost every type of clutch sold out there and even when i found a clutch that held the power my damn T56 broke ON THE DYNO i threw the towel and went to a Auto. I think anything over 600rwhp should make the driver think of an AUTO because that would be the starting point of limited traction and very very fast RPM movement(depending on your final drive) and alot of broken drivetrain parts. Manuals also shocks the drivetrain more than an AUTO which is why some 6 speed cars breaks 12 bolts.
they make clutches and T-56's to handle the power..both of mine are rated to 1300 ft lbs...I drive my car up to 300 miles straight at a time a automatic just won't do, the M6 keeps it very streetable...
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 07:56 AM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by red beast
they make clutches and T-56's to handle the power..both of mine are rated to 1300 ft lbs...I drive my car up to 300 miles straight at a time a automatic just won't do, the M6 keeps it very streetable...
I agree, no damn auto for me. Yes I have broke my main shaft in my T56 so I took it to G-force so it should be good to handle the power now. If I had a drag car then yes I would have an auto but mine is 90% street car so manual for me.
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 08:53 AM
  #114  
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ok lets not get crazy guys.. there is nothing 'race only' about a factory overdrive automatic trans. a 6 is definitely more fun to drive.. but i tell ya i do not hate stop and go traffic quite so much now as i did with my spec5
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 12:52 PM
  #115  
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lol..the look on other people's faces in stop and go traffic is priceless though!
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 07:47 PM
  #116  
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Bringing this thread back from the dead. I'm edwardswb. For some reason that board name stopped working a while back and after trying to fix it with admin a couple of times I gave up and created this one. Anyway. The car is coming along. Will have the suspension/cage finished (k-member, a-arms, madman stuff out back) and out running this summer with the stock longblock (cam only) still. I'm still having a hard time deciding what engine to build so I don't want to take it out of commission until the new set-up is ready to start going in. Also, I bought fireball's GT47-88 a while back but after more thought I've decided it's not going to get me where I want to be. To be continued...
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 08:32 PM
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So your shooting for 8s with M6 Right???

Keep us posted man.
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 08:50 PM
  #118  
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That is correct Venom. Anyone need a rolling advertisement for a discount on your parts? hahaha
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 10:27 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by VINCE
Are you saying because you are possibly heavier w/solid axle your traction is better? I can buy that..
What about the suspension setups of fbody vs vette. My buddy's bolt on z06 on a decent 315 doesn't hook at all. The car handles amazing, but you can spin the tires are always spining.

Could it have to do with how the car is transferring the weight, and fbody's also have alot more, and better suspension options, which all has to help.

Just my guess's since ive never driven anywhere near a 1,000 hp car, but maybe in a couple yr's.

As far as the topic starter is concerned, there is so much great info in this thread, and this forum. You can learn so much by reading. After you read peoples idea's do what ever it is that will make you happy, and what you want.

Chris

Ps. Sorry i didn't see how old this thread was, but read some good info.
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 11:21 PM
  #120  
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It's cool Chris, I brought it back from the dead to get the progress updated and get feedback on it. I do appreciate everyone's advice over the years. When I was a newb here (2004) I didn't know what a "lid" was. Now I'm trying to decide between an iron 6.0 based engine or an LSX with a PT-101 up front.<-I think that might be a bit much for a 408 but what do I know? Opinions?
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