Any chance of a sale on these? Gp or something like that?

 

ok i have a just standard ls1 with a few mods making around 430 rwhp no turbo or anything and wanted to know what diagram i would work off of for my setup and which catch can i should get, any help would be appreciated thanks.

 

I used to sell them. I dont any more but am looking to have them made again. I have seen a big push to have them offered again. I am working with two machine shops now to see what we can do.[/QUOTE]

please pm me with some pricing on the cylinders if possible

i wouldnt mind something with more capacity.

the top hole needs to fit a standard valvecover grommet 1.25" and the bottom would prefer to have a drain than unscrew it.

for the sides, need two 1/8 or 1/4 npt fittings on the bottom and one 3/8 npt thread at the top

also if anyone has ties on an adapter from the double helis ls oil fill tube to a standard valvecover breather grommet 1.25" (other than $30 metco) please do let me know!

 

Heck of a read! Mightymouse did you ever make any more catchcan breathers?

Also has anyone located a place that sells the ham-let check valves in small (1 or 2) quantities?

 

pm'ing.

 

pm responded.

 

Hey David if u do make any more Im interested.

Thanx, TIm

 

This is a very simple setup, but would it work?

 

If I'm understanding that diagram correctly, then it will be fine when you're not in boost, but when the throttle body is pressurized, then no evacuation occurs. On my LT1, I have almost the same configuration but I have the vacuum point on the pipe going to my Air filter instead of the throttle body. That way I always have vacuum, never pressure. The only drawback is it is a rather weak vacuum, especially at idle. But on balance, it does a good job of drawing condensation moisture out of the engine. Every week when I open the drain on the catch can, there is about 1/8 to 1/4 cup of oil tinged water that comes out.

 

I would agree that my while in boost there would be no vacuum but a majority of the time you are not actually in boost during normal driving. Which would mean that most of the time the gasses would be evacuated. While in boost it is my understanding that there will be more piston blow by which would create a positive crankcase pressure. At that point the extra pressure and gasses would be free to vent through the breather check valve while the check valve for the line going to the throttle body would be closed due to the boost pressure. Essentially under boost it would be the same as running an open breather. The third check valve that is between the valley cover and catch can is there purely for safety so that the crankcase has no chance of getting pressurized.

 

personally i dont like that layout, or possibly its just not clear

venting the crankcase thru only a valley cover on a higer hp build will definitely not work

 

What is the reasoning for this? Is there more positive pressure in the crankcase than the valley cover can vent while in boost? After all the valley cover is seeing the same pressure as the valve covers and is connected internally. That being said it is venting the same air so the only limiting factor would be the flow potential of the valley cover orifice.

I should mention I am only planning on around 700hp max over the life of the build.

 

Right now, my configuration pulls from both valve covers and the intake(LT1) but I'd love to get a 'real' vacuum pump to help with ring seal as well as condensation, etc. Have you guys discovered a pump that will live on a daily driver? I think that most of them I see are 'race only' and would expire/wear out on a daily driver rather quickly.

 

take your valley cover and blow though it. personally i dont think its enough to properly vent a stock engine. i believe gm caved on their pcv flow in order to limit oil consumption. the newer ones are even more restrictive.

only part of the system where i would use the valley cover is as a fresh air inlet

mightyquick - i think a race/vac pump of any kind trying to get ring seal is not really same category as setting up for proper pcv function. i tried one and got rid of it quickly.. one of those things on a more 'normal' car that you never really see the ROI on.

 

Thanx for the input MightyMouse. I think ill be making some slight changes to the design.

 

I welded a -12 bung to the drivers side valve cover and ran a single line all the way back to behind my rear axle and mounted a vented breather there, I also ran my coolant overflow to the same location on the passenger side, I wanted all my oil and coolant to blow out behind my rear wheels incase anything should happen during a pass

 

good for you, not so good for the guys after you

my coolant overflow is set to shoot right on my windsheild so me and everybody else sees it when it happens, and bonus to keep off my own tires.

 

i see everyone is running a hose to the inlet of the turbo,what "I" think should happen is the hose going to the inlet of turbo, should run thru another catch can for safety of absolutley no oil being sucked,and then hose befor MAF,you really dont need unmetered air ,,maybe this was talked about and i missed it..

 

depends on how that hose is used. if it is for a fresh air inlet (such as me) then the air goes the other way most of the time.

also in general i dont reccomend spending on mods that arent necessary.
if the tube isnt getting oily then you arent having oil that you need to catch. this is my case.

 

Thats a good idea too. I figure if anything happens thats going to cause me to leak, someone will let me know i was spraying out the back of the car. I end up running pure water anyway