DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

How much oil is collected in your guys catch cans? I've got no idea what to expect next year with the new shortblock (seeing 12-13psi D1SC). Do they fill up rather quickly? Is any oil needed between oil changes (2500-3000 miles)? If there is, would it be a bad idea to run a line from the bottom of the catch can(s) to the oil pan with a PCV valve in that line to allow oil to flow down at idle (or when car is off even), but not get pushed back up when at higher RPMs?

I'm thinking a -10 from each cover either into separate catch cans, or into one like the KYTP one (either way, a breather on can(s)). Then at the bottom of the can a drain back to the oil pan (like I said, with a checkvalve so crankcase pressure would not push oil UP this line). Would then use a PCV valve off of the LS6 valley cover into the manifold to draw a vacuum at idle, with an additional check valve so as not to pressurize the crankcase.

Nipple on throttle body would be capped..

NemesisC5

There has to be a "Best Design" specific for NA, Centri FI, Turbo FI, KB-Maggie-etc., setups. I'm guessing it could possibly be a different design for each. With that in mind, I'm certain that would narrow down the "one design fits all" mentality that seems to be complicating this issue as I still have not seen a design that everybody agrees on. Can someone please post schematic design of "Best Centrifugal Supercharger Catch Can(s) Setup"

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

Just pick one of the diagrams you feel comfortable with and go with it. Different strokes for different folks. What's ideal for one guy's car might not be for another.

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

Ive done mine two ways. One off each valve cover with -12an and deleted the whole PCV system.




And Ive done it this way

TLewis4095

iTrader: (10)

And, that set-up will work. You have the flow-through fresh air make-up, a one-way check valve (pcv valve does pretty much the same) and a catch can for seperation.

TLewis4095

iTrader: (10)

Lot's of good & even more conflicting info here. First, every motor needs a filtered fresh air make-up source to "flush" the harmful gasses, vapors, moisture, unburn't fuel that is pushed past the rings...in fact, sulferic acid is one of the by-products of combustion, out of the crankcase. When the motor is at operating temp these contaminates "flash" off in the crank case & need to be evacuated so they are removed before the engine is shut down & cools allowing them to recondense into the crankcase & eventually cause damage.

On the seals, yes! If you have no vacume relief, the seals can & do get pulled in & then not only do you have an oil leak at pressure, but a direct unfiltered entry of water, dirt, sand, dust, etc. directly into the crankcase (as some very ignorant folks have done by plugging everything off & just running open hoses down from each valve cover to near the ground...CRAZY, but we see a tuner doing it all the time). Also, i9f to much vacume is pulled (any more than 12-14 inches) wil start to pull the oil film off the wrist pins & main journals resulting in failure. On a street driven engine...especially FI applications, the system has to be designed similar to some of the contributors have done already....with an effective catch can that has proven to work.

Now on the vac pump systems, we run belt driven vacume pumps on all of our alky fueled race motors for several reasons, one being better ring seal (we build them w/low tension rings to facilitate this) but also to remove the massive amounts of moisture the methanol draws in and to evac the un-burnt meth that gets past the rings (all motors have some leakage). To avoid pulling to much vac we use an adjustable relief valve in the opposite valve cover that we pull from & a simple baffled catch can w/breather to trap the water & oil vapor so it does not get expelled onto the track or tires. This setup is far from practical on the street as we have to empty the cans evry 2-3 runs, and we are not concerned with the dust drawn in as we are not running on a dirty street, just a 1/4 mile down a treated track, and we change oil every few races. Last, we freshen each season so t5he extra wear from dirt is all figured in (we run a screen in the scoop to keep the larger pebbles out since a filter affects consistancy & power to much).

Bottom line is, the crankcase needs no unfiltered access, must have a filtered fresh air source, must route the system so it flows through the crankcase (not just in & out one valve cover), it must have check valve/s in the proper places to prevent boost blowing back into the crankcase, must also have an idle/low RPM non-boost source of vacume (intake manifold) with check valve/s (PCV valves) and a proven good effective catch can designed to effectivly trap & remove the oil mist/vapors.

We sell universal kits for NA applications, but it appears we need to offer a FI specific system as well.

NemesisC5

I think this might work. Cap off all ports other than ones used. LS6 valley port through check valve (to block boost) to one leg a "T" in front of CC. Driver side valve cover port (factory PCV line) into back of CC. From "T" in front of CC to Check valve then on to intake side of Supercharger or Turbo. The system will either "choose" the strongest vacuum (or maybe combined but I think the check valves will only allow one line to pull) source (intake manifold under deceleration/supercharger-turbo under boost) to pull crankcase vapors through CC. Fresh air is introduced into the system through a breather on oil filler cap. The check valves can either be the McMaster Carr units or the Krank Vent units.

It seems to me that with this system you will always have vacuum pulling fresh air into the engine that should evacuate harmful oil vapors collecting into the CC before it gets re-introduced into your engine. If anybody sees that this will not work please punch some holes in it

ino

iTrader: (1)

Those are some nice looking catch cans and they actually work so it makes it better.

Websy21

iTrader: (34)

I still think that MM is the best. I did it his way and after I turn off the car you can here the vac bleed off for awhile still. Works for him so its definetly good for me

4SFEDZ

iTrader: (6)

can you or someone post his? how well will the one that pulls vac thru the turbo intake then a filter on the other?

Websy21

iTrader: (34)

Try a search, if you can't find it than you aren't looking hard enough. Sorry, tired of diggin'tuff up all the time for people. More people have to learn how to search first, than ask questions IF they still aren't sure. I couldn't imagine how many threads I would have created if I simply asked every question with a thread.

SStolen

iTrader: (22)

This would seem to work well but I would use a vented catchcan off the passenger side VC so as not to get oil mist everywhere. I would also connect the rear ports of both VC's to the catch can.
The system looks to work well because it pulls vacuum when idling from the driver side VC without introducing oil into the intake with catch can; and pulls vacuum from the driver side VC when under boost by way of the line going to the turbo inlet. And because there is a checkvalve on the Intake, you are not pushing boost back into the engine. Like I said, I like it except I wouldn't run an open breather on the DS VC just because of the mess it makes. Yea, you would have to run two catch cans but it's worth it to have a PCV system for crusing around and to not have oil mist in your clean engine bay. Keeps those rings seated!

Big Bird WS6

iTrader: (9)

what about going from one valve cover to small catch can to turbo intake tube. then other head to small catch can to turbo intake tube????

SStolen

iTrader: (22)

You wouldn't be venting the system undet boost.

Big Bird WS6

iTrader: (9)

i mean so the hose is right behind the filter. so when turbo spools up it sucks the crank case.

bluehawk2

iTrader: (74)

I will snap a couple of pictures of the system I am running.

It is a vented catch can with the vents off of the valve covers running into the can. I had a shop do this when I installed the D1.

I had been chasing down idle problems with my big non-blower friendly cam. After we did the vented system, my idle problems went away


It is very similar to what JMBLOWNWS6 is running except I have everything running into one big vented catch can.

V-seriesTech

iTrader: (5)

Wow.

i just read everysingle page,..word for word, diagrahm for diagrahm. just when I think I have it all figured out, a new idea, or a new picture comes out. Some awesome info here, and some smart dudes. however,..you ******* lost me in the saturation.

I am running a LS6 valley cover. I have stock valve covers. I have a TPiS cathcan with filter. From what I am gathering:

I should cap off everything, valley cover, tb port, everything. And I should run a line from BOTH VALVE COVERS, to my VENTED CATCH CAN(has filter)
http://www.tpis.com/catalogimages/LS1_Catch.jpg

or am I wrong?

I was running a blower setup, and I think I had the catch can attached the the LS6 valley cover, and the other outlet to the intake manifold. I had a check valve in between.

Now running a TT setup.

V-seriesTech

iTrader: (5)

What, NOW this thread is gonna die?

*****.

ls1wannabe

iTrader: (2)

I would love to run a vented system like you showed v-series but i don't want all that **** under my hood. Although i dont drive a lsx powered vehicle i would still like to try it

TLewis4095

iTrader: (10)

Ls6/LS2-3 setup:






Dry-sump C6 Z06 setup:






Oil in the intake at 10,000 miles of street driving:



Forced induction setup:






I'll take some more detailed pics of the FI applications to show the entire system to clarify. Hundreds of these out there in use with the best possible results, and not having to sacrifice engine life to do it.