Stay D1 or go F1????????
08-11-2007, 12:13 AM
#61
If you dothe math 60lb injectors wont do anywhere near 1000fwhp either, dyno racing is dyno racing lol.
I'm pretty sure I could put a 3750lb raceweight car in the 9s with a 346 and a D1 considering the D1 has run a best of 9.17 @ 149.8 in this car at 3400lbs.
But that 408 is going to cost you another 100 or so lbs and it depends what you are doing for a transmission/tires/suspension. No such thing as 'easy' 9 second passes unless you go buy a 9 second car from someone
But if you are wanting 9s I would get the F1A..
I'm pretty sure I could put a 3750lb raceweight car in the 9s with a 346 and a D1 considering the D1 has run a best of 9.17 @ 149.8 in this car at 3400lbs.
But that 408 is going to cost you another 100 or so lbs and it depends what you are doing for a transmission/tires/suspension. No such thing as 'easy' 9 second passes unless you go buy a 9 second car from someone
But if you are wanting 9s I would get the F1A..
08-11-2007, 12:26 AM
#62
Oh trust me I know its not easy to hit 10's yet even 9's but was wondering if it was practical or not. 60# with 1000fwhp doesn't make sense to me either. I was thinking of running 750rwhp max and 650rwhp to start and am still contemplating the 60#'s myself. Do you think they'd suffice or do you think I should step it up also?
08-11-2007, 12:41 AM
#63
60lb injectors can take you a long way if you have the fuel pressure to back it up. There is a big difference between wanting to run 9s in a heavy car and running 10s.
Making the power and getting decent ETs are two different things so its best to set a goal and stick with it. Big difference between a 650hp street car and a 9 second race car.
10s is pretty easy, I did it on a stock motor with a P1SC in a pretty heavy full interior car, only thing that was missing was the a/c compressor and condensor
http://video.ls1tech.com/search/p1sc...32d9a380c6.htm
Making the power and getting decent ETs are two different things so its best to set a goal and stick with it. Big difference between a 650hp street car and a 9 second race car.
10s is pretty easy, I did it on a stock motor with a P1SC in a pretty heavy full interior car, only thing that was missing was the a/c compressor and condensor
http://video.ls1tech.com/search/p1sc...32d9a380c6.htm
08-11-2007, 12:55 AM
#64
Originally Posted by kp
60lb injectors can take you a long way if you have the fuel pressure to back it up. There is a big difference between wanting to run 9s in a heavy car and running 10s.
Making the power and getting decent ETs are two different things so its best to set a goal and stick with it. Big difference between a 650hp street car and a 9 second race car.
10s is pretty easy, I did it on a stock motor with a P1SC in a pretty heavy full interior car, only thing that was missing was the a/c compressor and condensor
http://video.ls1tech.com/search/p1sc...32d9a380c6.htm
Making the power and getting decent ETs are two different things so its best to set a goal and stick with it. Big difference between a 650hp street car and a 9 second race car.
10s is pretty easy, I did it on a stock motor with a P1SC in a pretty heavy full interior car, only thing that was missing was the a/c compressor and condensor
http://video.ls1tech.com/search/p1sc...32d9a380c6.htm
Last edited by Websy21; 08-11-2007 at 01:04 AM.
08-11-2007, 04:30 PM
#70
Wow lots of good info in this one. I would use the d1 personally. you can put down 650-700 rwhp with fairly low boost easy, then you would have a very dependable street/strip car. I daily drive my car to work and I would have to say its just about perfect for the street. I put down 620rwhp any more than this would just be rediculious for the street. you also have to remember that with the 408 your going to have quite a bit more torque in the low rpm range which is not going to help much for traction on the street. If building a 347 (forged crank, rods, pistons) wasnt as much as building a stroker I would have done another one. mine would have got me in the mid 10's easy if I got some good weather (under 90) and a decent 60 foot (under 1.8).
Hope this helps a bit, I understand the fustration Ive been there. I dont think you will be sorry either way.
Good luck
Brian
Hope this helps a bit, I understand the fustration Ive been there. I dont think you will be sorry either way.
Good luck
Brian
08-11-2007, 05:54 PM
#71
Originally Posted by nvmy2000ss
Wow lots of good info in this one. I would use the d1 personally. you can put down 650-700 rwhp with fairly low boost easy, then you would have a very dependable street/strip car. I daily drive my car to work and I would have to say its just about perfect for the street. I put down 620rwhp any more than this would just be rediculious for the street. you also have to remember that with the 408 your going to have quite a bit more torque in the low rpm range which is not going to help much for traction on the street. If building a 347 (forged crank, rods, pistons) wasnt as much as building a stroker I would have done another one. mine would have got me in the mid 10's easy if I got some good weather (under 90) and a decent 60 foot (under 1.8).
Hope this helps a bit, I understand the fustration Ive been there. I dont think you will be sorry either way.
Good luck
Brian
Hope this helps a bit, I understand the fustration Ive been there. I dont think you will be sorry either way.
Good luck
Brian
03-11-2008, 02:06 AM
#72
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wow I'm surprised I came across this thread doing a search. I'm in a somewhat similar decision to be made, but mine's for building the motor, and I found reading through this has helped a ton. Awesome!
Web, what did you finally decide on?
Web, what did you finally decide on?
03-11-2008, 03:26 PM
#73
i ran the D1 the last 2 seasons and I enjoyed it, I made 683 rwhp with it and it was a blast but I got used to it. now im into an F1A and the big red procharger race valve, I hope i will enjoy the noise and not get sick of it. I do have a killer stereo system though so i can just crank that up.
03-11-2008, 03:45 PM
#74
I decided on a D-1 kit but the person selling it to me fell though. I actually paid for it and ended up getting a refund that I was very leary about. I than came across a great deal on a front mount turbo kit and couldn't pass it up. It came with everything, and I mean everything! In some cases I wish I got the D-1 kit in others aspects but I know once its all done the turbo will be hella fun, if not more 
I also had the 408 all built and completely assembled but decided to order a new callies dragonslayer stock 3.622 stroke to make it a 370. This will give me more room for the current hairdryer and will spin it up a bit higher. The more I read about the 370, the more I wanted to try it out! It will make for allot better combo.
I also had the 408 all built and completely assembled but decided to order a new callies dragonslayer stock 3.622 stroke to make it a 370. This will give me more room for the current hairdryer and will spin it up a bit higher. The more I read about the 370, the more I wanted to try it out! It will make for allot better combo.
03-11-2008, 03:53 PM
#75
I decided on a D-1 kit but the person selling it to me fell though. I actually paid for it and ended up getting a refund that I was very leary about. I than came across a great deal on a front mount turbo kit and couldn't pass it up. It came with everything, and I mean everything! In some cases I wish I got the D-1 kit in others aspects but I know once its all done the turbo will be hella fun, if not more I also had the 408 all built and completely assembled but decided to order a new callies dragonslayer stock 3.622 stroke to make it a 370. This will give me more room for the current hairdryer and will spin it up a bit higher. The more I read about the 370, the more I wanted to try it out! It will make for allot better combo.
I also had the 408 all built and completely assembled but decided to order a new callies dragonslayer stock 3.622 stroke to make it a 370. This will give me more room for the current hairdryer and will spin it up a bit higher. The more I read about the 370, the more I wanted to try it out! It will make for allot better combo.
FWIW with the new 365 I went 5.79 @ 118 in the 1/8 in some pretty crappy weather with the D1SC nowhere near maxed out a month ago. Got to give some respect to that little blower, I think I could see 8s with it but I'm not going to spend too much effort to do it unless some great weather rolls around this spring.
03-11-2008, 03:55 PM
#76
Nothing like being decisive
FWIW with the new 365 I went 5.79 @ 118 in the 1/8 in some pretty crappy weather with the D1SC nowhere near maxed out a month ago. Got to give some respect to that little blower, I think I could see 8s with it but I'm not going to spend too much effort to do it unless some great weather rolls around this spring.
FWIW with the new 365 I went 5.79 @ 118 in the 1/8 in some pretty crappy weather with the D1SC nowhere near maxed out a month ago. Got to give some respect to that little blower, I think I could see 8s with it but I'm not going to spend too much effort to do it unless some great weather rolls around this spring.
In the end its all about taking your time and planning everything to work together. I am glad that it didn't go together last year. It woud have been rushed and probably some wrong decisions that sometimes either have to be researched better or gained from experience alone. I think that my project will turn out great, not saying there won't be any bugs to work out, but it should work very well for what I want it to do.
03-11-2008, 04:00 PM
#77
Thats not a problem with the F1A thats for sure but I dont know if I could street drive one for any length of time, its some pretty hardcore sound.
03-11-2008, 04:14 PM
#78
Doesnt matter on a race car really, helps get people out of your way. With the D1 at the track I had to point the vortech mondo out one of the holes in the bumper because people couldnt hear the car and wouldnt move out of the way. A little blast of air gets their attention now.
Thats not a problem with the F1A thats for sure but I dont know if I could street drive one for any length of time, its some pretty hardcore sound.
Thats not a problem with the F1A thats for sure but I dont know if I could street drive one for any length of time, its some pretty hardcore sound.
