Which Supercharger?
08-11-2007, 06:03 PM
#1
Which Supercharger? I have 347 forged motor, would the D-1SC be my best choice from the choices below? I have AFR 205's (arp head bolts) with upgraded dual comp springs and FAST 90mm intake. And would the 224/228 .581/.588 114+1 degree be OK? I'm new to this and don't know a dang thing about it ... never had a power adder of any kind before.
P-1SC-1
Centrifugal
825
32
1200
Gear Drive
65,000
3.75"
2.62"
Yes
Street/Light Duty Race
P-1SC-2
Centrifugal
825
30
1200
Gear Drive
60,000
3.75"
2.62"
Yes
Street/Race
D-1SC
Centrifugal
925
32
1400
Gear Drive
62,000
3.75"
2.62"
Yes
Street/Race
F-1
Centrifugal
1050
38
1525
Gear Drive
70,000
3.75"
2.62"
Yes
Street/Race
Centrifugal
825
32
1200
Gear Drive
65,000
3.75"
2.62"
Yes
Street/Light Duty Race
P-1SC-2
Centrifugal
825
30
1200
Gear Drive
60,000
3.75"
2.62"
Yes
Street/Race
D-1SC
Centrifugal
925
32
1400
Gear Drive
62,000
3.75"
2.62"
Yes
Street/Race
F-1
Centrifugal
1050
38
1525
Gear Drive
70,000
3.75"
2.62"
Yes
Street/Race
Last edited by JEB99TA; 08-11-2007 at 06:11 PM.
08-11-2007, 09:29 PM
#5
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If you decide to go bigger cubes, then, F1. But, it sounds like you're keeping the 350. D1 will do you well, but, no ro0m for growth if you decide to go bigger motor. If it's 9's you're looking for, they're def acheivable with that setup.
08-11-2007, 09:58 PM
#6
D1 is the best setup for your application. you could go F1 but I think it would be overkill unless your looking for higher boost and horsepower. I have close to the same setup your running and made 620-650rwhp and you could still go farther with race gas.
Good luck
Brian
Good luck
Brian
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08-12-2007, 06:02 AM
#8
My goal is mostly a street-driven DD that will run mid-high 9's. CR is 11:2, so, I'll have to redo heads. If I were to swap out my 205's with 62mm chambers, what kind of millwork would be necessary for a set of unmilled AFR 205's heads? Or will I need different heads? What about AFR 225's?
Last edited by JEB99TA; 08-12-2007 at 06:09 AM.
08-12-2007, 08:48 AM
#10
It's the pistons that came with the Mahle Power Pak kit below. The pistons were not flycut ... wasn't necessary with my cam.
Bore ... 3.905
Stroke ... 3.622 Rod Length ... 6.125
Pin Dia. ... 927
Comp. Height ... 1.314
Dome Volume ... -2cc
Weight Grams ... 394
C/R 64cc ... 10.0
Part Number ... LS1314905F02
08-12-2007, 09:13 AM
#11
Man, the more I look at this, the cost-effectiveness is going to be killing me because I had my motor initially set up for 150-200 nitrous setup ... that's what the ringlands are set up for, as well.
It's making me think about just doing a 408 with an F1 or a NA 427 H/C crate motor. I really wanna' do forced induction ... any ideas what would be the most cost-effective forced induction route would be for me to take? Like I say, I'm new to the idea of forced induction and don't wanna' do this over again.
It's making me think about just doing a 408 with an F1 or a NA 427 H/C crate motor. I really wanna' do forced induction ... any ideas what would be the most cost-effective forced induction route would be for me to take? Like I say, I'm new to the idea of forced induction and don't wanna' do this over again.
08-12-2007, 10:04 AM
#12
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Jeb go with a D1 for now, that' will keep you happy for a while. And you will wonder why you never went forced induction in the first place.
If you can get the compression down to 10:1 with new heads do that.
Otherwise drop the motor change the pistons and put that kit on. You might need to beef up your fuel system.
thought you were selling the car??
If you're going to do a new motor, do an ALUMINUM 402 with the D1 and kick ***!
NA cars suck. lol
If you want i can drop by your house and you can experience my little vortech car, it will give you a clue how much fun boost is.
If you can get the compression down to 10:1 with new heads do that.
Otherwise drop the motor change the pistons and put that kit on. You might need to beef up your fuel system.
thought you were selling the car??
If you're going to do a new motor, do an ALUMINUM 402 with the D1 and kick ***!
NA cars suck. lol
If you want i can drop by your house and you can experience my little vortech car, it will give you a clue how much fun boost is.
08-12-2007, 10:30 AM
#13
TECH Senior Member
Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
Jeb go with a D1 for now, that' will keep you happy for a while. And you will wonder why you never went forced induction in the first place.
If you can get the compression down to 10:1 with new heads do that.
Otherwise drop the motor change the pistons and put that kit on. You might need to beef up your fuel system.
thought you were selling the car??
If you're going to do a new motor, do an ALUMINUM 402 with the D1 and kick ***!
NA cars suck. lol
If you want i can drop by your house and you can experience my little vortech car, it will give you a clue how much fun boost is.
If you can get the compression down to 10:1 with new heads do that.
Otherwise drop the motor change the pistons and put that kit on. You might need to beef up your fuel system.
thought you were selling the car??
If you're going to do a new motor, do an ALUMINUM 402 with the D1 and kick ***!
NA cars suck. lol
If you want i can drop by your house and you can experience my little vortech car, it will give you a clue how much fun boost is.
08-17-2007, 05:01 AM
#15
Just dug this up ... what do you folks think about it over the D-1SC?
http://www.kennebell.net/supercharge...vette-tech.htm
... designed for LS1, LS2, LS6 motors:
http://www.kennebell.net/pricelist/SC-PRICELIST.pdf
http://www.kennebell.net/supercharge...vette-tech.htm
... designed for LS1, LS2, LS6 motors:
http://www.kennebell.net/pricelist/SC-PRICELIST.pdf
Last edited by JEB99TA; 08-17-2007 at 05:06 AM. Reason: add link to pricelist
