GWP 422... Back up to 10 PSI!
#1
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The surge of power is almost indescribable! ![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
On the street, it spins the Mickey Thompson's ET Streets the way it used to spin my street tires... except the bite of the Mickey's DOES keep it moving forward. I spun all the way up to 83 MPH before I backed out of it, and I only gave it 85% TPA thru first and only floored it in 2nd gear.
Believe it or not, with how fast it is accelerating, it's actually EASIER to keep the car straight... as long as I have it lined up along a straightaway. Forget flooring this baby on anything less than a straight road.
I picked up the Reichard Racing no-slip pulley and took a chance that a smaller pulley (2.80") would not slip. It's still only a 6-rib, and I gain fairly consistent 10 PSI at about 6800 RPMs. I see 7 or 8 #'s at 6000.
Here I show you the 2.80, the 3.20 and the 4.10 pulleys.
Notice you can see the ATI stamp on the 3.20 pulley.
![](http://www.blackls1ta.com/images/280_320_410_Pulleys.jpg)
With the Iron BLock, the ATI replacement fan is just not cooling me down, so I got this:
SLP's performance Radiator with 50% more cooling capacity.
![](http://www.blackls1ta.com/images/StockAndSLPRadiators.jpg)
It made a difference, but I still need to come up with a better fan situation to take advantage of it. There's more cooling in it. Putting the heat on full blast brings the temps back down some more, so I KNOW more fan would help.
My next mods are Subframe connectors and I eyeing those new 11.5 x 28 M/T ET Streets (16x8 rims).
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
On the street, it spins the Mickey Thompson's ET Streets the way it used to spin my street tires... except the bite of the Mickey's DOES keep it moving forward. I spun all the way up to 83 MPH before I backed out of it, and I only gave it 85% TPA thru first and only floored it in 2nd gear.
Believe it or not, with how fast it is accelerating, it's actually EASIER to keep the car straight... as long as I have it lined up along a straightaway. Forget flooring this baby on anything less than a straight road.
I picked up the Reichard Racing no-slip pulley and took a chance that a smaller pulley (2.80") would not slip. It's still only a 6-rib, and I gain fairly consistent 10 PSI at about 6800 RPMs. I see 7 or 8 #'s at 6000.
Here I show you the 2.80, the 3.20 and the 4.10 pulleys.
Notice you can see the ATI stamp on the 3.20 pulley.
![](http://www.blackls1ta.com/images/280_320_410_Pulleys.jpg)
With the Iron BLock, the ATI replacement fan is just not cooling me down, so I got this:
SLP's performance Radiator with 50% more cooling capacity.
![](http://www.blackls1ta.com/images/StockAndSLPRadiators.jpg)
It made a difference, but I still need to come up with a better fan situation to take advantage of it. There's more cooling in it. Putting the heat on full blast brings the temps back down some more, so I KNOW more fan would help.
My next mods are Subframe connectors and I eyeing those new 11.5 x 28 M/T ET Streets (16x8 rims).
#2
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SLP's performance Radiator with 50% more cooling capacity.
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Do you think I will have a problem running my stock radiator w/my iron block setup..I don't want to come close to overheating, and I'm running the single ATI fan...if so, how much is that radiator
Stock Crank..372c.i. 12psi setup...
Stock Crank..372c.i. 12psi setup...
#6
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black ls1.. im just curious what maf hz you are seeing now..at the top gear with the new boost.. assuming you are still using a stock unported meter.
thanks.
thanks.
I sent my extended MAF in to be checked out and should have it back.
I will be able to run up to 67.x instead of 57.x lbs.
That's STILL not enough, I still max it out... but it is better.
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#7
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Do you think I will have a problem running my stock radiator w/my iron block setup..I don't want to come close to overheating, and I'm running the single ATI fan...if so, how much is that radiator
Stock Crank..372c.i. 12psi setup...
Stock Crank..372c.i. 12psi setup...
![Icon Eek](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_eek.gif)
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#8
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I'm glad to see that Jimmy's pulley worked well for you. He has told me that some cars that go to the 8 rib setup, could save money and still not slip with his 6 rib pulley. Serious boost would still need an 8 rib. Congrats. ![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)
Bruce
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Bruce
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Did you ever thing about the Be-Cool aluminum radiator and the Spal dual electric fans?
I used that setup on my older Vette and WOW what a difference. Talk about overkill!!
Glad to see your beast up and running, now lets see soem times LOL!!
I used that setup on my older Vette and WOW what a difference. Talk about overkill!!
Glad to see your beast up and running, now lets see soem times LOL!!
#10
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I already have the SLP now.
So, the Spal Dual fans clear the Procharger AND mate to the piece that the Inlet Plenum for the Procharger Kit?
I do still need to improve my fans situation.
I'm going to put some subframe connectos on it before I hit the track TOO much. I afraid the torque might twist my body once I get a good hook-up.
So, the Spal Dual fans clear the Procharger AND mate to the piece that the Inlet Plenum for the Procharger Kit?
I do still need to improve my fans situation.
I'm going to put some subframe connectos on it before I hit the track TOO much. I afraid the torque might twist my body once I get a good hook-up.
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
#11
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black ls1.. im just curious what maf hz you are seeing now..at the top gear with the new boost.. assuming you are still using a stock unported meter.
thanks.
thanks.
Here is a recent run to 6500 in 1st gear:
<font class="small">Code:</font><hr /><pre>
RPM MPH Tmg KR IPW1 InjDC RWTQ RWHP gMAF fMAF FTCell
2883 19.3 24.5 0.0 14.20 34.0 498 273.0 239.0 9400 22
3914 24.9 21.5 0.0 17.00 55.4 570 425.0 354.0 10604 22
4829 32.9 19.0 0.0 19.80 79.6 558 513.0 439.0 11555 22
5802 39.1 16.5 0.0 17.60 85.1 522 577.0 439.0 11963 22
6526 44.1 15.0 0.0 16.20 88.1 478 594.0 439.0 12133 22
</pre><hr />
The radiator costs about $289.00 or $299.00, depending on where you buy.