My APS TT Install Thread
Originally Posted by MY99TAWS6
Well reading and reading and reading some more on the instructions.
Wondering on a few things. Wondering if we should be putting thread sealant or teflon tape on some of the coolant fittings into the turbos. I see they are using just copper washers and a couple of silver not sure what they are made of washers. They recommend thread sealant only in a couple of places like where one coolant adapter goes into block. Mostly its just copper washers. And ditto on oil feeds and stuff. Is copper washers sufficient with no thread sealant?
Hugger you said you have leaks in this thread. Do you think you have all the washers right? Do you think its just a matter of tightening things enough? Guess see what luck you have. I did notice first intructions think step 31 was not clear on that silver washer and now in new updated instructions its clear. but thought that silver washer would not work as well as copper so not sure why they used it and again no mention of thread sealant just the silver and copper washers.
Well looks like we shall see you driving your car Hugger in the next week and hopefully getting your tune. Seeing you get yours going is just going to make it harder not to install mine right away. There is still a few months of season left up here. Was not planning on tracking the car just yet maybe next year after get a real rear end in there.Still could have some fun around town with those hairdryers even on my near stock engine.
Wondering on a few things. Wondering if we should be putting thread sealant or teflon tape on some of the coolant fittings into the turbos. I see they are using just copper washers and a couple of silver not sure what they are made of washers. They recommend thread sealant only in a couple of places like where one coolant adapter goes into block. Mostly its just copper washers. And ditto on oil feeds and stuff. Is copper washers sufficient with no thread sealant?
Hugger you said you have leaks in this thread. Do you think you have all the washers right? Do you think its just a matter of tightening things enough? Guess see what luck you have. I did notice first intructions think step 31 was not clear on that silver washer and now in new updated instructions its clear. but thought that silver washer would not work as well as copper so not sure why they used it and again no mention of thread sealant just the silver and copper washers.
Well looks like we shall see you driving your car Hugger in the next week and hopefully getting your tune. Seeing you get yours going is just going to make it harder not to install mine right away. There is still a few months of season left up here. Was not planning on tracking the car just yet maybe next year after get a real rear end in there.Still could have some fun around town with those hairdryers even on my near stock engine.
Originally Posted by KWIKKAR
do you think with the motor and trans out, That i can mount up the turbos and stuff and still have room to put it in. Or Leave them off and put them up after the engine and stuff is in?
Yeah I need to start marking the pages, already started missing stuff.
When I dropped off my stuff at the painters to get done. I forgot to do something to it, so I went there to get it and fix what I needed to do. Well long story short I ended up ****** up my truck at the body shop. I was backing up with a trailer and wasn't paying to attention to the front and hit there gate. $3000 worth of damage and I was going MAYBE 1/2 MPH. Heres pictures.
8 months old. Doesn't look like much, but needs NEW bumper, Grill, headlight, fender,
Yeah I need to start marking the pages, already started missing stuff.
When I dropped off my stuff at the painters to get done. I forgot to do something to it, so I went there to get it and fix what I needed to do. Well long story short I ended up ****** up my truck at the body shop. I was backing up with a trailer and wasn't paying to attention to the front and hit there gate. $3000 worth of damage and I was going MAYBE 1/2 MPH. Heres pictures.
8 months old. Doesn't look like much, but needs NEW bumper, Grill, headlight, fender,Sorry about your truck man. That sucks. Hope it fixes up easily.
Originally Posted by reject
goodstuff there! just wish you recorded the drive
about how loud would you compair the dumped turbo's to:?
about how loud would you compair the dumped turbo's to:?
And it is ANNOYINGLY loud! Even from inside the car it seemed to resonate at any rpm. I think I probably pissed off my neighbors and everyone within 4 blocks of me. I drove around a little yesterday and my friend said she heard me the whole way and I was a few blocks away at one point! 
You are my hero dude!!
So still not 100% clear. You have your new injectors or stock injectors in there? Wonder if you have some boost leak causing it to stall out.Boost leaks are scourge of turbo cars. I found best way to test for them is garage smoke machine. You can make tester also but smoke works better.
I don't even run that tunnel brace. It don't do much anyway. And possiblity of exhaust rattling on it and giving false knock.
So still not 100% clear. You have your new injectors or stock injectors in there? Wonder if you have some boost leak causing it to stall out.Boost leaks are scourge of turbo cars. I found best way to test for them is garage smoke machine. You can make tester also but smoke works better.
I don't even run that tunnel brace. It don't do much anyway. And possiblity of exhaust rattling on it and giving false knock.
Originally Posted by MY99TAWS6
You are my hero dude!!
So still not 100% clear. You have your new injectors or stock injectors in there? Wonder if you have some boost leak causing it to stall out.Boost leaks are scourge of turbo cars. I found best way to test for them is garage smoke machine. You can make tester also but smoke works better.
I don't even run that tunnel brace. It don't do much anyway. And possiblity of exhaust rattling on it and giving false knock.
So still not 100% clear. You have your new injectors or stock injectors in there? Wonder if you have some boost leak causing it to stall out.Boost leaks are scourge of turbo cars. I found best way to test for them is garage smoke machine. You can make tester also but smoke works better.
I don't even run that tunnel brace. It don't do much anyway. And possiblity of exhaust rattling on it and giving false knock.
Yeah that might cause the stalling or maybe car has to relearn idle..guess see after you get exhaust on the car. I still would like to know which ypipes preferrably stainless are going to work best on my car. I still am keeping my b and b with electric cutout and y pipe not going to true duals on the car. I think with cutout it will work fine.Single cutout on intermediate pipe.
Its great you got it running now and can proceed with the tuning and exhaust work.
Thought a few other guys would have their systems on and running by now. Some of course are likely not on this board.
Be nice to see others tune files for hptuners so can compare.Think aps said they are using hptuners.not sure what your tuner is using on your car? Hptuners and ls1 edit think are most common tuning programs.
Its great you got it running now and can proceed with the tuning and exhaust work.
Thought a few other guys would have their systems on and running by now. Some of course are likely not on this board.
Be nice to see others tune files for hptuners so can compare.Think aps said they are using hptuners.not sure what your tuner is using on your car? Hptuners and ls1 edit think are most common tuning programs.
I am not sure which software my tuner will use. I will try to find out. I plan to try to learn this stuff myself someday too. Just not willing to try to learn on my car at this time. Ha ha. Can't wait to get the exhaust on and get it over for a tune! I want to drive this thing so bad and be able to get into it. Definitely more videos for sure. Might take some more today if I pull it out to wash it. Gotta appease my fans here. 
silver spacers
Originally Posted by Hugger Z
Yeah the copper washers should be fine, we use them on brake banjo bolts. Maybe I didn't tighten them down enough. The one line I know I may have loosened when I was fixing my coolant line after the k-member install. It ended up on the wrong side of the engine mount. Those silver washers are just spacers (which I forgot to install as my install manual was an earlier version). But everything seems to fit without them. From what I understand thread sealant is not needed with these taper type fittings. Similar to AN fittings, they seal without any added sealant.
did you use BOTH the copper washers and the silver spacers on the same banjo bolt or just the silver spacers?
Got some more videos today. This is still with open downpipes. I take it for an alignment tomorrow and then drop it off at the exhaust shop. Drove it to go get some gas in the tank today. Enjoy!
Click here to see Video
Click here to see Video
Click here to see Video
Click here to see VideoClick here to see VideoClick here to see Video Last edited by Hugger Z; Sep 9, 2007 at 08:16 PM.
Originally Posted by mterveen
did you use BOTH the copper washers and the silver spacers on the same banjo bolt or just the silver spacers?
Not sure what gear your were in in the last video but it didn't sound that loud but of course you weren't on it much. But did seem to hear them spooling a bit on first video.
Was it still stalling out every time you slowed down? Would have been trickey to drive??
Oh well this next week should be very interesting as you get your exhaust and get it tuned and start hitting some boost. I am sure you are on the edge of your seat.
Do you have a boost gauge installed already?
Was it still stalling out every time you slowed down? Would have been trickey to drive??
Oh well this next week should be very interesting as you get your exhaust and get it tuned and start hitting some boost. I am sure you are on the edge of your seat.
Do you have a boost gauge installed already?
Have some more questions for you and some will take some seat time but you are our first APS installed car.
Please let me know how much vibration the car has with those new poly motor mounts. A bit worried about them. My car is street car not track race car.
Also be curious to see where it spool up in say third etc. Would think stock engine around 3500 should be about right in say third and think would feel and start to see boost at 2500 or so. I am hoping to see full spool at 3000 with a 408.And boost start at 2000. That would be a great powerband.
Curious also to see how loud those blow off valves are recirced like that. Maybe you could even try a temp block off on them to see how they are non recirced.It should not affect the car since the maf is after them and thus blow thru not draw thru.
Also curious to see how well it stays cool with the intercooler on there in front of the rad. Hoping to keep a stock rad but if can't well so be it.
Sure will have some more questions once you get it fully tuned and running.
Please let me know how much vibration the car has with those new poly motor mounts. A bit worried about them. My car is street car not track race car.
Also be curious to see where it spool up in say third etc. Would think stock engine around 3500 should be about right in say third and think would feel and start to see boost at 2500 or so. I am hoping to see full spool at 3000 with a 408.And boost start at 2000. That would be a great powerband.
Curious also to see how loud those blow off valves are recirced like that. Maybe you could even try a temp block off on them to see how they are non recirced.It should not affect the car since the maf is after them and thus blow thru not draw thru.
Also curious to see how well it stays cool with the intercooler on there in front of the rad. Hoping to keep a stock rad but if can't well so be it.
Sure will have some more questions once you get it fully tuned and running.
Originally Posted by MY99TAWS6
Not sure what gear your were in in the last video but it didn't sound that loud but of course you weren't on it much. But did seem to hear them spooling a bit on first video.
Was it still stalling out every time you slowed down? Would have been trickey to drive??
Oh well this next week should be very interesting as you get your exhaust and get it tuned and start hitting some boost. I am sure you are on the edge of your seat.
Do you have a boost gauge installed already?
Was it still stalling out every time you slowed down? Would have been trickey to drive??
Oh well this next week should be very interesting as you get your exhaust and get it tuned and start hitting some boost. I am sure you are on the edge of your seat.
Do you have a boost gauge installed already?
And when I come to a stop it revs to like 2500rpm's and takes a while to wind back down or I have to blip the throttle to get it to settle down. Which is also LOUD with the downpipes. It is fun startling people though. Can't wait to get the exhaust on and have it tuned. I really want to drive it and feel this thing pull!!!
Originally Posted by MY99TAWS6
Have some more questions for you and some will take some seat time but you are our first APS installed car.
Please let me know how much vibration the car has with those new poly motor mounts. A bit worried about them. My car is street car not track race car.
Also be curious to see where it spool up in say third etc. Would think stock engine around 3500 should be about right in say third and think would feel and start to see boost at 2500 or so. I am hoping to see full spool at 3000 with a 408.And boost start at 2000. That would be a great powerband.
Curious also to see how loud those blow off valves are recirced like that. Maybe you could even try a temp block off on them to see how they are non recirced.It should not affect the car since the maf is after them and thus blow thru not draw thru.
Also curious to see how well it stays cool with the intercooler on there in front of the rad. Hoping to keep a stock rad but if can't well so be it.
Sure will have some more questions once you get it fully tuned and running.
Please let me know how much vibration the car has with those new poly motor mounts. A bit worried about them. My car is street car not track race car.
Also be curious to see where it spool up in say third etc. Would think stock engine around 3500 should be about right in say third and think would feel and start to see boost at 2500 or so. I am hoping to see full spool at 3000 with a 408.And boost start at 2000. That would be a great powerband.
Curious also to see how loud those blow off valves are recirced like that. Maybe you could even try a temp block off on them to see how they are non recirced.It should not affect the car since the maf is after them and thus blow thru not draw thru.
Also curious to see how well it stays cool with the intercooler on there in front of the rad. Hoping to keep a stock rad but if can't well so be it.
Sure will have some more questions once you get it fully tuned and running.
No boost gage yet. I plan to add one but have been bleeding money lately so it will have to get added later. There will be boost, fuel pressure, and wideband gauges in there. My tuner has a wideband he is using so I don't need one at the moment.
I too am curious about spool and the BOV's. I should know more later this week or next week. We'll see and I will be sure to update everyone. I just can't get the grin off my face when I hear those turbo's spool. And they are barely spooling with the driving I did.
I may have to go see my doc about my chronic case of permagrin! Engine temps ran fine when I went to get gas yesterday. It was a little hot and sounded like a coffee percolator at one point when I stopped. But when I checked the coolant later on, was down a bit. Topped it off last night, burped it and will see how it does today on the way to the alignment and then the exhaust shop.
Ok thanks for more updating. Like I said most of those questions are going to take some seat time to answer. You might want to buy boost gauge first even super cheapo one then upgrade it later. Very important to make sure you are getting proper boost. A line off or whatever on the gate to the turbo could give you twenty pounds and boost leaks could also rob you of boost. I have boost gauge, egt and in car fuel pressure and wideband. Later think going to eboost2. Since only have triple gauge pod right now have to likely not use egt I think for the moment.Think boost is more important to watch than egt.And wideband and fuel pressure are also pretty critical although once car is tuned not quite as important to watch wideband unless something goes wrong.
