Blake01SS

iTrader: (24)

Okay fella's...Im sure some of you have read my previous posts about my Procharger set-up not building boost. But for those who havent, I will give ya the info.
*Keep in mind the Car ran PERFECT before this*

Installed:
AFR 225's
Exotic Performance Blower Cam
Upgraded to the 8-Rib Belt (with pullie that Bob at EPP insured me would build the boost I wanted, I believe its a 4.25 but dont hold me to that)
*I know my car isnt going to run good at all untuned with a H/C swap*

Potential Problems I have checked out:
No Pipe'n is Leaking
Bought a Metal Plenum (blew up the Plastic Plenum)
No Vaccum Leaks
BOV is working Properly
Filter doesnt appear to be sucking closed
The Crank is pinned so I dont believe Im having slipping issues (and I see no belt dust anywhere)


What Im left with:
When I blew up the Plastic Plenum do yall think it may have bent some of the "Impellers" in the Charger Itself? Bob, at EPP told me my pullie size is the right one so Im 99.9% sure that isnt the problem. Really, Im left to believe that something is wrong with the Procharger itself. Has anyone else had this type of problem before? Please Help Guys!


Blake

Bird-Of-Prey

iTrader: (23)

You said in your post "BOV is working Properly"
BOV's are for turbo applications. You should be running a bypass valve. A bypass valve is open until you get into boost and then slams shut allowing you to make boost. A BOV is closed and opens with vacuum when your throttle blade closes in a manual trans car. If you are running a BOV instead of a bypass this might be your problem. When you start to build boost it might be pushing open the valve and allowing boost to escape.

Blake01SS

iTrader: (24)

Sorry Fella's...

Bypass valve is working properly...

Blake

ranwalk

iTrader: (1)

How much boost is it making? And how much are you looking for it to make?
Which compressor is it? P1, D1,F?

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

Can you inspect the impeller? All the real fragile stuff is visible from the intake side of the blower. One of those little mirrors on a handle works well.

Jim

D-Webz

iTrader: (4)

If the Plenum blew up it wouldnt make its way back to the blower. It would go into the intake manifold. There is to much piping to go through to get back to the blower.

02NBMFormula

iTrader: (6)

does it feel any faster?? as in could the guage just not be working??

belt slipping?? should still be making some boost though

kinked vaccum line?

thats just some small stuff that i can think of off the top of my head, but youve probally already checked that stuff

if the belts are spinning, turning the blower, boost should be made unless the bypass valve is staying open.

id bet its some small stupid little thing not working right which throws everything else out of wack

Blake01SS

iTrader: (24)

Okay, Ima try to answer all the questions asked.

Ranwalk...Its only making 3-4lbs at Redline in each gear...Pretty much stays at 3-4lbs throughout WOT, and its the P-1 Blower

DeltaT...Tomorrow I plan on checking out the impellers, Im thinking that maybe the shock from when the plenum busted may have been enough to screw them up just enough to where it would loose the boost.

DWebz...I didnt figure an object made it down to the blower, but with the way things have gone...Its worth a look, pretty much on my last limb here...

02NBMFormula...I have hooked up two gauges, same results...Belt doesnt appear to be slipping...Vaccum lines appear to be kink free...Im to the point to where Im 90% shure the problem is in the blower itself, everything else has been checked or replaced...Wish me luck...

Thanks for the help fella's...Anyone have a clue as to what it could be?!

Blake

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

You have to get it on a dyno and check it out.Boost means nothing.Maybe the Cam is bleeding off. Atleast a dyno will tell you the power curve to help look for a problem.

kp

iTrader: (34)

4.25 on a P1SC wont make much boost, sure that pulley size is correct? You are going to have to max out that P1SC to see even 9-10psi with that cam if you have a good exhaust.

Post up the rest of your engine, compression, heads, valve springs etc.

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

I would agree with you Kevin, but he says that the boost is the same throughout the RPM range at WOT. This indicates the boost is not building. Now, if it was slowly going up, and maxed out at 4psi at redline, that would be a different story.

However, I think 4psi sounds about right with a 4.25" pulley and heads/ cam combo with a P1 blower. I made about 6psi with my P1 with a 4.25" pulley on stock heads and cam FWIW...

kp

iTrader: (34)

Without a log its hard to say what the rpm range is exactly. If the rpm range is 4000-6000 you arent going to see a bunch on needle movement with the blower turning that slow when you are trying to drive. Its also possible the boost gauge and bypass can be hooked up on the wrong side of the check valve.

Other then a massive leak somewhere you have belt slip or bad valve float. Or a hole in a piston or two..

Blake01SS

iTrader: (24)

Called Bob today and were going to try a different pullie size. Going to go with a 3.55 I believe is what he said. Hope this works...If not, its back to the drawing Boards...

Thanks for the help fella's

Blake

stevieturbo

I run a pair of Greddy BOV's..

no problems here

if anything, a typical turbo BOV will be far less likely to leak, than a typical supercharger style "bypass" as internal springs tend to be stronger.

I actually had to remove one of the internal springs in mine, so they would open easier.

kp

iTrader: (34)

You can use the bigger Mondos and Procharger bypasses as BOVs too if you crank the spring tension up. But the chamber is is so big on either that you dont need much spring at all, since the diaphram is twice the size of the valve pushing against it there should be no way to force it open under boost and I'd rather have the lighter spring pressure to open quicker..

But yea it really doesnt matter if you use a BOV as long as the spring doesnt hold it closed at part throttle/idle.

Bird-Of-Prey

iTrader: (23)

stevieturbo: Could you please share some info on how you use twin Greddy BOV'S on a Vortech setup?

KP: I know you can use the Mondo and ProCharger race Bypass valves on turbo setups but was always told by many that if you use a regular BOV on a Procharged setup such as the Tial 50mm that I had it wouldn't function properly and would always cause an insanely annoying chirping sound. Are you saying you could actually use a Tial 50mm on a D1SC setup if the spring pressure was adjusted?

kp

iTrader: (34)

I have no idea if you could use that exact valve, but if you look at a big bypass notice how big the chamber diaphram is compared to the size of the valve itself. Lot of BOVs arent made like that, honestly I dont even know what the insides of the newer BOVs look like and of they are sealed well enough for vacuum to hold them open and if the spring ension can be lowered enough so it stays open at idle.

I would think it would be easier with a big blower to just buy a big bypass

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Blake, your 3.55 pulley is on it's way to you. Bob

stevieturbo

Quite easy. I have one mounted before the IC, and one after...purely as it was easy in the space I had.

Their operation is no different to any form of compressor bypass, or vent.

You have a signal line from intake, to top side of diaphram, which helps keep it closed under boost, and pulls it open when closed throttle...ie vacuum.

The only difference I did, was I removed one of the internal springs, as I found as supplied, the units were too stiff, and did not vent easily enough....although they would probably have been ok with both springs, I just wasnt happy with it.

You can see the second BOV in the picture, bottom left. The other one isnt visible from above. Its on the pipe from blower to IC, mounted low down.

Rickys S/C Z28

iTrader: (13)

good luck man i hope you get this thing worked out!!!