Quick boost referanced regulator ????
Alex
Last edited by SPRAYED 01; Sep 12, 2007 at 06:57 PM.
however, itll be more accurate at the intake manifold to what boost you're actually running.
reason for this- out of the turbo you will normally experience from inefficiencies such as boost dropping off from restrictions at the intercooler.
while your turbo outlet will run 10 psi. the restrictions from the intercooler and size of the pipe may only register 8 or 9 psi at the actual throttle body.
Alex
Not true, 20 vac is not -20psi, its inches of vacuum. 20" of vacuum is actually about -9.8ish psi.
So 20" of vacuum with a base pressure set at 58psi should be close to 49ish psi.
Ryan K.
FWIW, I plan to do the above. My FPR will be hooked up to the intake manifold. Guess I will find out how hard it is to tune in a few days.
So in short, hook it up to the intake manifold source.
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So in short, hook it up to the intake manifold source.
This is the normal way a boost referenced FPR would be connected.
And indeed the way almost every OE reg works with a vacuum attachment. A reduction of circa 7-8psi FPR would be normal at idle etc.
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with a stock computer the injector flow rate table is on a slant to simulate having a manifold pressure reference. hook a 1:1 regulator to the intake and you can now make this table flat.. one number straight across. EASY
lets also say that you are having trouble with minimum pulse width or 0 duty cycle / offset time problems of large injectors but you still NEED the max output of them. letting the fuel pressure drop under vaccum will help this problem significantly
What make is it ? ive never seen one like that before.
Where on the intake have you taken the signal line from ?
I set it to 58psi at idle and the fuel pressure doesn't start raising until I get into boost. I will have to double check what my vacuum is at idle, but i think it is in the 15-20 range.
So 20" of vacuum with a base pressure set at 58psi should be close to 49ish psi.
Ryan K.
Actually, negative pressure is negative pressure...you're assuming I meant inHg
You can assign different units of measure to negative pressure....using 20 was not a good example but I was trying to keep the units constant to make the example easy...so... 20inHg = 9.7954psi on a 60 degree F day or there abouts for the Hermione's.
Regardless, if you hook most regulators to a manifold reference you will get a greater delta in the fuel psi since it reduces the setpoint under negative pressure and increases it under positive pressure. I'd rather go from 58psi to 73psi than swing from 48psi to 78psi.....but it's just a personal preference...many different ways to kill the cat.
Where on the intake is the signal line connected ?
Last time I out I was running 4 bar base pressure ( 59psi ), which sees 3.5 bar ( 51psi ) at idle, and 5.5bar ( 81psi ) at full boost
With my new rebuild, I'll bump that back up about 4psi
I was looking at my fuel pressure today when i left work. idle is at 58psi with 15vac By 0 vac it is at 60psi, but I also have my switch for my second pump on the most sensitive setting (screw all the way backed out) so I don't know if it is actually kicking the second pump on and that is whats causing the pressure increase. I suppose I could disconnect the switch and drive it on a short trip without going into boost and see if pressure still rises. But even if it does, it is only going up 2psi with a delta of 15vac. That is definitely not 1:1.





