Boost Spike Issues - HELP!!
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Hey, I've got an Incon TT using a Greddy Profec-B. When running lower boost levels ( 7psi ) I get nominal spike. But when I get it up to about 10, the spiking gets worse, to the point where I think it's detonating until it settles back down. This is not acceptable. What options do I have? I've heard of a 'granger' valve . . . can I use something like that WITH the Greddy, or is it to be used by itself? I just don't want to have to worry about this anymore. Thanks guys!!
- Dug
- Dug
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Dug,
How long are your vacuum lines to the actuators? Are they both the same length?
Also, make sure that the actuators are opening at the same psi (using a mity-vac or something similar).
Scott
How long are your vacuum lines to the actuators? Are they both the same length?
Also, make sure that the actuators are opening at the same psi (using a mity-vac or something similar).
Scott
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Scott, I believe they are about the same length . . . however I've got 50,000 things also tied in, like an SMC water/alky kit, a Kenne-bell boost a pump, the gauge . . . I just wonder if all the accessories are making it worse. I do have a Mity-Vac, they both open right around 5psi . . .
- Dug
- Dug
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I also have the Profec-B and have never really had any boost spikes with it, even when I turned up the boost.
My vacuum lines that run to the actuators are exactly the same length. Also, I don't have anything else tied into the vacuum line that goes to the control solenoid...and I made that line as short as possible.
You might want to try making the lines the same length and taking all of the accessories off of the line that goes to the 'IN' side of the boost solenoid.
Also, do you have the Sharpness setting on the controller turned all the way up?
My vacuum lines that run to the actuators are exactly the same length. Also, I don't have anything else tied into the vacuum line that goes to the control solenoid...and I made that line as short as possible.
You might want to try making the lines the same length and taking all of the accessories off of the line that goes to the 'IN' side of the boost solenoid.
Also, do you have the Sharpness setting on the controller turned all the way up?
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Hey Scott . . . yes, I have the sharpness all the way clockwise, so it's not that. I think you may be onto something with the other stuff though . . . so the accessories should be AFTER the greddy black box? To be honest I'm not sure what side they're on . . . I had it installed by a local shop. I will look at it and let you know, thanks for your help!!
- Dug
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OK, just so I understand this correctly . . . everything that needs a boost reading should get the reading BEFORE the solenoid, not after, right? Because the line after the solenoid does not have a true boost reading . . . The only lines that come out of the solenoid should go just to the actuators, right?
Would you be able to draw a diagram of how yours is setup Scott?
- Dug
Would you be able to draw a diagram of how yours is setup Scott?
- Dug
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Sure,
I will email it to you since I don't have a place to host it.
Basically though, manifold reference goes into the IN on the boost control solenoid. A single line will exit the OUT on the boost control solenoid...this line will go into a T and each side of the T will go to one of actuators.
I will email it to you since I don't have a place to host it.
Basically though, manifold reference goes into the IN on the boost control solenoid. A single line will exit the OUT on the boost control solenoid...this line will go into a T and each side of the T will go to one of actuators.
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OK, took a quick break and looked at how mine is setup. Out of the TB there is a line that gets split into 3. One line goes to the solenoid, one line gets split again ( 3 ways: 1 to boost gauge, 1 to water/alky, 1 to boost-a-pump ), another of the original 3 goes to FP gauge. Could it be the 2nd line that again gets split into 3? The way it was all done appears to be quite a mess to me, don't know if that's causing my problems or not . . .
I would think that if the solenoid has it's own reference, it should be OK . . .
- Dug
I would think that if the solenoid has it's own reference, it should be OK . . .
- Dug
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Sounds like it should be ok from the way that you are describing things.
Remember that you want the line from the manifold reference to the controller to be as short as possible.
Remember that you want the line from the manifold reference to the controller to be as short as possible.
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Yes, I would estimate that line to be 18" long at the most . . . I personally would like to redo all the connections myself and clean it up some. It's a plumber's nightmare under the hood!
- Dug
- Dug
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Ha ha! I see the peanut gallery has chimed in ![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Nic, I got the new jet in for the water/alky . . . time to head back soon. I'll be in touch![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
- Dug
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Nic, I got the new jet in for the water/alky . . . time to head back soon. I'll be in touch
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
- Dug
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Blah, thats all too much work. I say ditch the TT kit and sell it to me.
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Nic, I got the new jet in for the water/alky . . . time to head back soon. I'll be in touch ![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
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