Sts
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On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 170
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From: Minnesota!!!
Sts I have a STS and have posted numerous times about it and recently i posted a thread about tucking the turbo, well i had a shop tuck the turbo in their words and got it back and the turbo was actually lower to the ground and "tucked" closer to the rear diff. So what i am asking is if anyone has info on how to get ground clearence outta the turbo so its not so damn low...and i would like to get rid of the over axle charge side outta the turbo, and go under i think, open to suggestions
check out bob at EPP www.exoticperformanceplus.com on Scott Hewitts SS under customer cars/project cars I believe they made a bracket and tucked the turbo and gained another inch or so
for the under the axle pipe..let me dig around here, I have that picture somewhere, but you will need someone to build the pipe i believe.
it is also somewhere on ls1tech here...i will do some looking
for the under the axle pipe..let me dig around here, I have that picture somewhere, but you will need someone to build the pipe i believe.
it is also somewhere on ls1tech here...i will do some looking
Last edited by ZL1Killa; Sep 26, 2007 at 09:57 AM.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 170
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From: Minnesota!!!
Thanks for all ur help, yea so the story is that my dad was going to take my car home to Minnesota. So he made it about an hour and a half east of flagstaff, hit rough ground and sheared the return oil line 90 outta the turbo, so i had to drive up there in my truck fix it then drive it back. So now i want as much ground clearence and as close to the heat shield for the gas tank as reasonably possible.
Yours must be REALLY low.
One thing you can do is mount brackets onto the compressor using the existing bolts. Then either weld to the frame or bolt to an existing spot.
I run my piping under the axle, and basically have it setup like this:
-45* 2.5" to 2.25" reducer off the compressor facing towards the driver side.
-Then an 18" straight pipe connected to a 45* pipe with a hump hose
-Then the 45* pipe is connected to the long straight pipe running down the subframe/pinch rail with hump hose.
-it crosses right under the LCA
This gives the piping some flex so that it doesnt buckle under suspension changes. Mine is also tucked up higher than the exhaust and suspension bits.
One thing you can do is mount brackets onto the compressor using the existing bolts. Then either weld to the frame or bolt to an existing spot.
I run my piping under the axle, and basically have it setup like this:
-45* 2.5" to 2.25" reducer off the compressor facing towards the driver side.
-Then an 18" straight pipe connected to a 45* pipe with a hump hose
-Then the 45* pipe is connected to the long straight pipe running down the subframe/pinch rail with hump hose.
-it crosses right under the LCA
This gives the piping some flex so that it doesnt buckle under suspension changes. Mine is also tucked up higher than the exhaust and suspension bits.
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if done right, you dont have to have brackets or anything. The mounting pipe has to be in the right position and you have to clock the housings to compensate for where you put the pipe. Also, mount the turbo w/o reguard for the exhaust. If you make sure the exhaust clears, then you are leaving room for the turbo to be higher. Then, you may have to alter the exhaust, or make it a dump. Also, make sure to at least tack the I pipe to the Y pipe. With the weight of the turbo, it will eventually sag because of the twist where the pipes meet.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,659
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From: Bellevue, Wa
you loosen the bolts around the perminter and then the housing will spin. thus you can point the outlet to any position you wish. IE 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, etc.....
and for the under the axel pipe. I used an old Y pipe. The oval part works great for gaining ground clearance. That and it was free
and for the under the axel pipe. I used an old Y pipe. The oval part works great for gaining ground clearance. That and it was free
Originally Posted by 99Z28LS1
clock the housings and get a dynamx 2 i pipe and that will fix all
My housing is already set correctly, I just need to replace the over-the-axle fiasco with an under the axle arrangement.
Thanks in advance.
dynomax I-pipe replaces your stock exhaust pipe with one that tucks up higher over the axle (pass side). Summit sells it. Look up dynomax I-pipe for fbod application. They sell the I-pipe and over-axle pipe as two seperate parts. Total cost is about $120.
The only bolts you need to loosen for the "clocking" is the exhaust housing. It should be 9/16" bolts (could possibly be 1/2"). Just loosen each one a little until you can turn the turbo. Then tighten.
The only bolts you need to loosen for the "clocking" is the exhaust housing. It should be 9/16" bolts (could possibly be 1/2"). Just loosen each one a little until you can turn the turbo. Then tighten.