434" Buildup
11-16-2007, 04:07 PM
#1
434" Buildup It's not an LSx motor, but this will be the new heart to my FI setup. Here it is after I got the crate off the pallet, opened it up and moved the Cometics off to the side:
And here's the first shot of the Motown block with all-forged Ohio Crankshaft contents: 4340 crank, 6" H-beam rods, KB Forged blower pistons (will be 9.55 CR), and custom Comp Cams solid roller I specced: 242/248 on a 115LSA:
I'll be removing all of this stuff off my current 383, and moving it over to the 434, and changing a bunch of stuff at the same time:
More to come in the next couple weeks!
Jim
My Site: http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/id1.html
LS1TECH is my favorite Forced Induction forum!
And here's the first shot of the Motown block with all-forged Ohio Crankshaft contents: 4340 crank, 6" H-beam rods, KB Forged blower pistons (will be 9.55 CR), and custom Comp Cams solid roller I specced: 242/248 on a 115LSA:
I'll be removing all of this stuff off my current 383, and moving it over to the 434, and changing a bunch of stuff at the same time:
More to come in the next couple weeks!
Jim
My Site: http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/id1.html
LS1TECH is my favorite Forced Induction forum!
11-16-2007, 05:56 PM
#4
If you don't mind can you pm the price of what you have into the shortblock. I am looking to do a similar size motor in the old man's fullsize truck and are looking around for pricing
11-16-2007, 07:58 PM
#6
Launching!
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sweet, Im planning on about the same size motor for mine. Im trying to decide 421 or 434. Going to use a dart block, with the same internals as yours. I found a killer deal on one. congrats
11-17-2007, 07:59 PM
#7
I'm starting to inspect the internals of the 434:
Here's the first view after pulling the oil pan:
And more of a closeup on the crank detail work:
Good hardware: ARP 1/2" main bolts, ARP-9000 capscrews on the H-beam rods. Very clean inside. Engine rotates pretty easily - well inside spec for regular tension rings.
Jim
Here's the first view after pulling the oil pan:
And more of a closeup on the crank detail work:
Good hardware: ARP 1/2" main bolts, ARP-9000 capscrews on the H-beam rods. Very clean inside. Engine rotates pretty easily - well inside spec for regular tension rings.
Jim
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11-19-2007, 06:05 PM
#8
Couple more shots as I verify the 434" internals Here's the Canton oilpan:
And the #3 piston/rod assembly:
Everything is measuring up correctly. The only thing I've found so far is a metal chip with blue paint (Ford?) in the #7 cylinder, above the ring.
Offset dowels should be here this week - my Cometics don't quite center perfectly on the bore.
Jim
My Site: http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/id1.html
And the #3 piston/rod assembly:
Everything is measuring up correctly. The only thing I've found so far is a metal chip with blue paint (Ford?) in the #7 cylinder, above the ring.
Offset dowels should be here this week - my Cometics don't quite center perfectly on the bore.
Jim
My Site: http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/id1.html
Last edited by DeltaT; 11-19-2007 at 06:18 PM. Reason: boo-boo
11-19-2007, 07:48 PM
#9
Who put 1/2" bolt holes in the block?
That doesn't look like a piston that will support much boost. Tight ring pack and no CD doesn't leave much room for a thick crown due to all that arm.
I ran a 434" for awhile with a roots set-up, 14* heads and a 14-71 lung with Enderle injection on methanol. I ended up going faster with the 400" motor and it was much more durable.
All in all, looks like a pretty nice set-up. Looks good in the car.
I like old SBC's.
That doesn't look like a piston that will support much boost. Tight ring pack and no CD doesn't leave much room for a thick crown due to all that arm.
I ran a 434" for awhile with a roots set-up, 14* heads and a 14-71 lung with Enderle injection on methanol. I ended up going faster with the 400" motor and it was much more durable.
All in all, looks like a pretty nice set-up. Looks good in the car.
I like old SBC's.
Last edited by helicoil; 11-19-2007 at 08:38 PM.
11-19-2007, 09:21 PM
#10
Thanks, it's the Motown block by World - the 1/2" holes and ARP bolts are what it comes with.
Boost should be around 8-9 with this T-trim blower and hit well into the 600's for rwhp with a mellow 242/248 on 115 solid roller.
The car is more set up for road racing/autocross.
Your red car is very cool - I have always loved that body style.
Jim
Boost should be around 8-9 with this T-trim blower and hit well into the 600's for rwhp with a mellow 242/248 on 115 solid roller.
The car is more set up for road racing/autocross.
Your red car is very cool - I have always loved that body style.
Jim
11-20-2007, 02:25 AM
#12
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Who put 1/2" bolt holes in the block?
That doesn't look like a piston that will support much boost. Tight ring pack and no CD doesn't leave much room for a thick crown due to all that arm.
I ran a 434" for awhile with a roots set-up, 14* heads and a 14-71 lung with Enderle injection on methanol. I ended up going faster with the 400" motor and it was much more durable.
All in all, looks like a pretty nice set-up. Looks good in the car.
I like old SBC's.
That doesn't look like a piston that will support much boost. Tight ring pack and no CD doesn't leave much room for a thick crown due to all that arm.
I ran a 434" for awhile with a roots set-up, 14* heads and a 14-71 lung with Enderle injection on methanol. I ended up going faster with the 400" motor and it was much more durable.
All in all, looks like a pretty nice set-up. Looks good in the car.
I like old SBC's.
11-20-2007, 11:30 AM
#13
Jim
My Site: http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/id1.html
11-20-2007, 07:53 PM
#15
Thanks, it's replacing the all-forged 383 buried here in the Grey Ghost:
Jim
My Site: http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/id1.html
Jim
My Site: http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/id1.html
11-21-2007, 07:42 PM
#18
It handles quite well - all the rear suspension 4-link ends are heim joints but still has a surprisingly smooth ride. The front control arms have Poly-Graphite bushings, and the front has AFCO springs and 3" adjustable weight jackers so I can set corner weights. Bilsteins all around. And I played around with spring rates and different anti-roll bars to get very neutral handling. It is unusual in that it likes a larger rear anti-roll (1 1/2") than front (1 1/8"). And that helps it launch straight without some of the body twisting you see on G-body drag cars.
I just put ET Drag Radials (275/40-17) on the rears and it helped a lot with traction, and doesn't seem to give up too much in the handling over the BFG KD's. I'm saving the KD's for some road race track time.
Starting the motor swap in the next week - still accumulating parts. Here's the short list of new parts other than the motor:
9.5" Vigilante 4L80E converter, 2800 stall, 5-disc lockup
FJO Racing Programmable Alky Injection
Edelbrock Super Victor Manifold, EFI Vortec-style
Adding 2 Dynomax Race Bullets - trying to quiet this thing down
NOS Bigshot plate to replace the Cheater plate
Redesigned front blower mount plate in steel, screw-type tensioner
And finally hooking up the nitrous: Stage I will be a 50 shot, Stage II will be 100 shot, Stage III is both. Each stage will be wired through the MSD Multi-Step Retard box to pull timing out when activated. All controlled by the NOS Progressive Controller. It will only be for occasional use - I don't expect to need it often!
Jim
I just put ET Drag Radials (275/40-17) on the rears and it helped a lot with traction, and doesn't seem to give up too much in the handling over the BFG KD's. I'm saving the KD's for some road race track time.
Starting the motor swap in the next week - still accumulating parts. Here's the short list of new parts other than the motor:
9.5" Vigilante 4L80E converter, 2800 stall, 5-disc lockup
FJO Racing Programmable Alky Injection
Edelbrock Super Victor Manifold, EFI Vortec-style
Adding 2 Dynomax Race Bullets - trying to quiet this thing down
NOS Bigshot plate to replace the Cheater plate
Redesigned front blower mount plate in steel, screw-type tensioner
And finally hooking up the nitrous: Stage I will be a 50 shot, Stage II will be 100 shot, Stage III is both. Each stage will be wired through the MSD Multi-Step Retard box to pull timing out when activated. All controlled by the NOS Progressive Controller. It will only be for occasional use - I don't expect to need it often!
Jim
11-22-2007, 01:27 AM
#19
how do you fond the auto for road crouse work?? i have heard alot of horror storreis of them changing down, when you dont want them to, on the entry to corners and upsetting the ballance of the car.
also is there any reason why you didn't go for the the ally block?? would have saved a bit of weight.
thanks Chris.
also is there any reason why you didn't go for the the ally block?? would have saved a bit of weight.
thanks Chris.
11-22-2007, 11:41 PM
#20
Chris,
I like the auto but need to add a paddle shifter (Shrifter from Twist Machine). It gives you full manual upshift control, and as a downshift you can select the gear you want to be in when you reach 'X' speed at 'Y' TPS. You can't really use engine braking much, so good brakes are important. Also with the tranny in manual mode, it will shift back to First automatically when you stop so you can't mistakenly try to take off in 3rd or something. Flick the switch on the dash and you are back to being a regular 4L80E with all your programming intact.
Alloy block would have been another $2000 to save 100 pounds. That hundred pounds is important, but not that important to me. I can remove a hundred pounds easily just by putting fiberglass bumpers on it for the track, for maybe $250.
Jim
I like the auto but need to add a paddle shifter (Shrifter from Twist Machine). It gives you full manual upshift control, and as a downshift you can select the gear you want to be in when you reach 'X' speed at 'Y' TPS. You can't really use engine braking much, so good brakes are important. Also with the tranny in manual mode, it will shift back to First automatically when you stop so you can't mistakenly try to take off in 3rd or something. Flick the switch on the dash and you are back to being a regular 4L80E with all your programming intact.
Alloy block would have been another $2000 to save 100 pounds. That hundred pounds is important, but not that important to me. I can remove a hundred pounds easily just by putting fiberglass bumpers on it for the track, for maybe $250.
Jim