Lifted the heads on the Dyno
Lifted the heads on the Dyno Well i took my car to the dyno Lastnight & the Driverside Head started to Drip Antifreeze out Between the Head & The Block ,I had a felpro headGasket on the car ,That was what was on the car with my Na setup & I put A Novi 2k on the C5 vette Stock Bottom end ,the car ran out of fuel @ 5k Fuel pressure Started dropping @5k & We went no Further with the Session ,Dropped From 58 to 45 ,btw i had a MSD 2350 Bap on it ,stock Fuel Pump for FI = Junk ,so @5k It made 540rwhp On 8psi of boost & 480 rwtq,It should make close to 570,580 But thats Pushing the bottom end ,I am gonna run the Gm MLS # 12589226 Head Gasket,I Had Arp HeadBolts Not studs ,Do u guys think the Arp headBolts will be ok to reuse on 8psi ?Thanks For the Replys guys
Dam kool, I meant to ask you if you were on any forums. But never got a chance. Yea we were there LATE into the night............
Your vett was dam nice, put out some nice numbers. Hope you get her back and running soon, good luck on the fix
Your vett was dam nice, put out some nice numbers. Hope you get her back and running soon, good luck on the fix
Last edited by MonkeyBoneSS; Nov 16, 2007 at 09:56 PM.
Ya i am on this one & The Cf forum ,I gotta get a racetronix pump ,along with the Bap ,IT should be good for 600 rwhp ,i just dont wanna have to pull these heads off again ,Because of the Bolts,i really think The Arp Bolts will be ok ,i think there made out of the same stuff the studs are made out of ,I am not 100% sure though ,Once i get it back together i will be headed Back to Rwtd For a Final Tune
Depending on how lean the car is ussually too high of timing is the main cause of lifting heads. You can keep adding timing and the power will increase till the heads lift. The ECS Paxton kit doesn't like much timing if that is what you are ussing.
Put arp head stud's with the gm mls gasket's and torque to 80ft lbs. Work on the tune a little.You shouldn't lift the head's with only 500rwhp,I wouldn't think.Detonation and to much timing will lift the head's!Make sure you run good gas also!
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My spark was at 15 degrees under peak boost at peak load. My Afr Was mid 11s @ Wot ,That is until the Fuel Pressure started to drop,Thats why i am Thinking the Fuel Pump is inadequate,then the AFR Started to lean out & @ That point we would have to get out of it ,in order to keep from melting anything ,I have heard of 2 diffrent people tell me the car dropping fuel is normal & to tune around it ,My tuner says NoWay,Its A pump Not delivering Enough Fuel & That You Cant tune around It
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8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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Your fuel pressure should not drop- thats for sure. In fact, for boosted applications, you really want your fuel pressure to go up 1psi for every psi of boost you run. This is because injectors operate on differential pressure. That is the differance across the injector. So if your base fuel pressure is 58psi, you want it to be at 68psi at 10# of boost. Only way to do this is with a boost referanced fuel pressure regulator.
Very nice numbers tho!
Very nice numbers tho!
I agree with Hunter, the sruds just distribute the tq better and more evenly. Although the bolts will work again, but you may end up with the same issue again. At those power levels you shouldn't be having too much head lifting issues. 75-80lbs is what I used on my stock ARP head studs and it worked great for me. Good luck.
sounds like good advise..
pretty much what we talked about on the phone yesterday..Also remember you will see around 10psi at 6400rpm and 11-12psi on a real cold day...
I think your main problem is the felpro gaskets, switch to the GM MLS gaskets, torque them down to 75-80ftlbs, pop in a better fuel pump, and you should be good. Keep the AFR at around 11/1 and timing at 14-15 to try to keep the hp under 600rwhp. Without a complete change in the fuel system to a referenced regulator, you will still see a fuel pressure drop from 58psi down to about 50psi at max boost. Just tune around the pressure drop. Just comes from having the pressure regulator in the back of the car by the fuel tanks. The only way to stop that is to change the fuel rail to a 97-98 return style rail with the pressure regulator at the rail and run a return fuel line back to the tank...
pretty much what we talked about on the phone yesterday..Also remember you will see around 10psi at 6400rpm and 11-12psi on a real cold day...I think your main problem is the felpro gaskets, switch to the GM MLS gaskets, torque them down to 75-80ftlbs, pop in a better fuel pump, and you should be good. Keep the AFR at around 11/1 and timing at 14-15 to try to keep the hp under 600rwhp. Without a complete change in the fuel system to a referenced regulator, you will still see a fuel pressure drop from 58psi down to about 50psi at max boost. Just tune around the pressure drop. Just comes from having the pressure regulator in the back of the car by the fuel tanks. The only way to stop that is to change the fuel rail to a 97-98 return style rail with the pressure regulator at the rail and run a return fuel line back to the tank...