Stock block + 13psi + 7250rpm = (pics)
LSX block time
Best carnage I've ever seen in this section 
11-19-2007, 07:10 AM
#25
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Thanks for the props on making it go boom, I think lol. For those of you wondering what happened, I have no idea. I'm pretty good at taking it apart and putting it back together but I am not nearly experienced enough to diagnose. All I see is a mess of broken parts, your guys guess is as good as mine. If I had to guess, I would say it happened because I spun it too high and one of the rod bolts let go.
11-19-2007, 08:42 AM
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The only thing that may throw that idea out is that the engine ran until it quit itself with no oil. It all happened so fast, I'm not sure the order of things but I do know it went at like 7250rpms and all the fluids shot out the hole in the block and out the oil fill in a matter of a second or so then it ran a couple more seconds and then I realized it was no longer running. I didn't think to turn it off until it was too late, I didn't want to crash either and I was going over 130 when it happened. It may be possible it ran a second or so without a drop of oil after the initial damage.
11-19-2007, 08:50 AM
#31
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I didn't mean the rod itself, I meant the bolt holding it. I've read on here that is the weak link for spinning the stock block that high, a lot of people change them for some arp or katech bolts. I was going to but then read the 02s had stronger ones. I guess it really doesn't matter, I needed a stronger block regardless for how hard I'm pushing it.
11-19-2007, 09:45 AM
#33
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The crank turned black before the rod dis-connected from heat, that is most likely what caused the rod to fail. If the journal is black, then the culprit is the stock oiling system. The oiling system will not be repaired by changing the engine, something to consider for your next build.
Kurt
Kurt
The only thing that may throw that idea out is that the engine ran until it quit itself with no oil. It all happened so fast, I'm not sure the order of things but I do know it went at like 7250rpms and all the fluids shot out the hole in the block and out the oil fill in a matter of a second or so then it ran a couple more seconds and then I realized it was no longer running. I didn't think to turn it off until it was too late, I didn't want to crash either and I was going over 130 when it happened. It may be possible it ran a second or so without a drop of oil after the initial damage.
11-19-2007, 11:42 AM
#34
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The crank turned black before the rod dis-connected from heat, that is most likely what caused the rod to fail. If the journal is black, then the culprit is the stock oiling system. The oiling system will not be repaired by changing the engine, something to consider for your next build.
Kurt
Kurt
11-19-2007, 09:58 PM
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In case you haven't seen this yet. Here's an lsx block for sale from sponsor.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts-sale/817693-lsx-block-bead-locks-f-s.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts-sale/817693-lsx-block-bead-locks-f-s.html
11-19-2007, 10:13 PM
#38
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I don't know how much power you were making, but I'm sure that you can easily top it if you get with a good engine builder and design an engine for the psi. I don't know if you already did it, but you can at least strengthen your internals up. It would make sense if your connecting rods gave out in tension. I hear that since there's nothing stopping them on the exhaust stroke (no gas to compress), they keep going and stretch a bit permanently. This causes disaster fast.
