pushing coolant into overflow?
Had same issue. It was the tuning. First see about inspecting the heads/gaskets if they lifted severely or not. Then try adjusting timing and then make sure it isn't running lean under boost.
I went to GM MLS gaskets and LQ9 heads and haven't looked back.
I went to GM MLS gaskets and LQ9 heads and haven't looked back.
It's not a real big deal. Pushing water is part of the game. Not sure how much hp and spray you are using,but it usually dosn't happen until around the 700hp mark and above.Install new gm mls gasket's and torque them down to 80ft. lbs. as long as you have arp head studs.Check your tune also. Detonation will make you push water prematurly along with to much timing,and bad gas also.
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im going to pull a couple more degrees of timing then. its at 24* right now on a 150 wet kit. only making a tad north of 600rwhp. cometic gaskets and arp bolts. not studs. i know this is the forced induction forum but i always hear about u guys pushing water and wanted some more opinions.
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im going to pull a couple more degrees of timing then. its at 24* right now on a 150 wet kit. only making a tad north of 600rwhp. cometic gaskets and arp bolts. not studs. i know this is the forced induction forum but i always hear about u guys pushing water and wanted some more opinions.
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heads are milled to 60cc and a .040 cometic gasket. so is this gasket trash now? they say they are reusable? it doesnt do a lick on motor. i can beat it all day everyday and not a drop moves til i hit that button. scr is 11.5 and dcr is 8.5ish.
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it also didnt do it right away. when i first finished the setup it ran fine for 3 bottles now its done it the last 3 bottles. if i let the car competly cool it will suck it back in to the radiator.
Couple pieces of advice to offer take them for what they are though. The bolts don't tq as good or evenly as a stud so I would change, and another thing is once you have lifted it will do it easier from then on. you can re-tq your bolts it could and probably will help, but if it were me I'd change to studs MLS or if your gaskest look good you can reuse them since cometic are a tad pricey, but I use the GM MLS's for about $38 a piece so I usually just replace them. Then after a couple of heat cycles re-tq and I bet you won't have any issues especially at those power levels. Good luck. I believe your problem came from the bolts they are just not as effective in even clamping and partly tunning, but if you are using race fuel then more so on the bolts etc...
Pull the heads, check the gasket. Ideally replace the bolts with studs, but you should be fine keeping the bolts after you pull some timing. I'd say start with pulling 4* and see how it reacts. Chances are you won't lose a ton of power and you won't push a drop. You can add back a degree or two if you want, but I bet it won't be THAT noticeable when spraying to make it worth it if you're a street car
N/A though...we pulled 4* out from 5000RPM+ on my car, and I lost 2-3mph in the 1/4 NA. Mine does the exact same thing as you described to the tooth.. I am at 24* as well with my 100 shot.
It did not start losing water till ~8 bottles later and on N/A, doesnt lose a drop. I have .040" cometic and miled 59cc dart heads.
I was palnning on pulling the heads off come spring as its too damn cold in th garage during the winter.
It did not start losing water till ~8 bottles later and on N/A, doesnt lose a drop. I have .040" cometic and miled 59cc dart heads.
I was palnning on pulling the heads off come spring as its too damn cold in th garage during the winter.
If your running pump gas and 24* of timing I definatly think thats what caused the issue. Pushing no water on motor and a little on the bottle is common. Once they lifted they wont stop (this is all something I have experienced not hearsay) I actualy saw more MPH after I pulled a little timing after I had a lifting issue (just like yours) from running to much timing. I would DEFINATLY buy new gaskets and the head studs would also be a good idea.







