I'm working on a FMIC for my T/A and thought I'd share incase anyone else wanted to see how it can be done for a T/A and keep the stock appearance of the front bumper with the license plate filler and even the fog lights and all. Requirements for this install include retaining stock front bumper appearance with working fog lights, keep license plate filler panel, keep washer fluid tank (this is my meth reservoir), keep battery in the stock location, need ATI race BPV in location where water can't get to it (harder than usual with a Mecham hood- was the cause of the ultimate demise of my stock shortblock), and lastly- gotta keep MAF sensor (altho this will most likely be ditched in the future in favor of an SD tune, but for now MAF needs to stay for my tuner). I'm also going to add a couple puller fans on top of the IC to help with airflow across the entire surface because the air dam is only going to tend to shovel air into the back half or so.

Okay, so I think I've covered all my intentions. Now onto the mock up!

Here is the intercooler I went with. Just a cheap eBay unit, but I'm hoping it will be less of a restriction than the dual 3.5" smaller intercoolers. With a core size of 24x12x4 I think that should be an easy task to accomplish. I am aware that it probably won't be as efficient at cooling as a brand name unit would, but as I mentioned above, I have meth, and I ain't afraid to use it



Now onto the placement of the MAF. After LOTS of messing around and trying to figure out the best place to put that stupid thing to where I could actually route the pipe and it would fit, I finally came to the conclusion that the stock location would work best for me.



Planning to put the humongous ATI race BPV here:



Got the bumper off and hung the IC up temporarily with some string so I could mock up the pipe and see what all I'll need to order and go ahead and get it on the way while I finish the rest of the stuff. You can also see where the fog lights in this pic in their stock location. (BTW- If you were wondering, I'm using some 3" dryer ducting to do the mockup of the pipe.)



Another pic from the front:



Here is a view looking up from the bottom of the passenger side:



And a few from the driver's side:







Next up is to make a frame to replace the stock front cross brace that holds the fog lights and foam bumper support. That part is gonna be tricky because it needs to have provisions to mount the fog lights, a bracket for the meth pump, and allow clearance for the cooling fans. Should take some creative engineering. But hey- I'm good at cramming 10 pounds of **** into a 5 pound bag! I do it every day at work designing airplanes!

 

You should look up pics of how the very few hi flo kits were mounted. They did something extremely similar.

 

Yes, I have. I could not find a lot of detailed pics tho, just a few of the finished product. I really wanted to see how they were mounted, but couldn't see that very well with the bumper on. I searched and searched but didn't find anything. I wish I could have because it may help my install go a bit easier! So that is why I'm putting info here so people can see how it can be done without guessing whats behind the scenes so to speak.

 

Horizontal works for me and I'm on a C5

 

We all know how well Speed's old Z performed with an identical FMIC setup, good luck man, can't wait to see how it turns out

 

thats a neat idea on using the dryer vent tubbing for mock up!!

 

why not reclock your blower and reverse your inlet/outlet on the IC. then you can bring the outlet up to the TB thru the hole where the fuse box is like the stock drivers side ATI IC and have a nice smooth J into the TB instead of the snake. Again out of the blower your just going straight across and around the corner into the IC. Lots less bends = more efficient + hell of alot easier to build more than likely.

Just my $.02

 

I did think about that, but there is not really room for a 3" pipe to go thru that hole without moving the fuse box and the ABS unit (don't want to make all new brake lines). The reason the stock ATI tube can fit down there is because it isn't a 3" tube IIRC the stock plenum has dual 2.5" inlets? I could not fit the 3" tubing down there. Plus, once I go SD that U on top will be eliminated and I'll just have a nice 90° elbow off the TB going into the existing plumbing with little to no modification. And also that is the more direct path with less tubing doing it like this.

 

Well, after a little searching, it did appear that people were running 3" piping in that area so I decided to give it a try with the mock up dryer tubing. I did have to lift the fuse box up a bit, but its not even noticeable after the tubing is in place. Definitely gets rid of that ugly looking U bend right on top, so looks a ton better. And here is concept revision A. I definitely like it a lot better than what I had to begin with

 

much nicer!

exactly what I was thinking.

 

Yep- thanks for the post- it pushed me to look at it again!

 

So much better than hacking up those nice bumpers on a T/A, great job.

 

BAM!!

 

thought you where running the normal PTS stuff AVB??? have you changed it now??

Chris.

 

Chad,
Check out pics of kp's car he has his inlet tube running up from the same side you had it the first time.

 

Sweet! That helps a little Thanks Is there any way of getting the one side of that tubing going from the TB to the IC? I love the polished look

Yes, I was looking at his and koji777's. They both run it that way. But neither of them have a MAF to worry about. And that is my problem...

 

looks good. Justbe careful in parking lots. I know more than once ive scraped the nose of my car on curbs when parking. With the IC that low...could be bad

 

how is the coolant temps with a set up like this? doesn't look like much air will get at the radiator

 

Air should follow the stock flow path. It's just gonna go thru an intercooler first...

 

hey that looks familiar! Good work Chad!