Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Yeah I hear you I never took the F1C I had available on a friends car apart to compare either. I am probably going to try the F1C this next year, putting a 3.70 on my F1 currently though had a 4.00.

Blownramair

I sure as hell want to know bc I hate to be the person to try this out... I'm actually curious to see how far the SDCE setup can go to be honest...

Lots of good **** in this thread!

& Kev you dont know what i'm doin just yet, but i'm sure you'll find a way to put a bumper on me... LoL... I just need to get into the 8s to qualify in Drag Radial @ Milan like 14-16 haha... Outta control... Besides i'm sure our class will be running 7.50-7.70s next year and pushin 200...

J

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

Hey Kp-what was te pulley combo you ran for the F1A? If you want we can trade blowers to take notes next year-I would be interested to see what a F1A can do.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

[QUOTE=Blownramair;8344408]I sure as hell want to know bc I hate to be the person to try this out... I'm actually curious to see how far the SDCE setup can go to be honest...

you don't have to try it... im doin it!

i make 18 psi with a 3.70 pulley/sdce setup. i don't have alot of data yet, but it seems to be working well so far.

kp

iTrader: (34)

You can be sure of one thing, it will move quite a bit more air than a standard F1 Swapping those pulleys will give you at least 2-3psi peak but it will gain quite a bit around 6-6500 where you will really feel it.

Na, I'm not really going to try to go much faster, with a new engine I'm just going to be doing a lot more index/bracket racing this year, couple pinks all-outs and a couple pontiac races, maybe a super chevy or two as well. I am not really fast enough to be heads up racing, plus I'm not going to try to blow the car up going quicker, until the fall anyhow I've spent more time setting up an air shifter and delay box in the car this winter than trying to make it go faster..

7.25/4.0 is what I ran on the F1A, I could go to a 3.85 or something like that and max it so there is a little more room. That made a little under 19psi peak @ 7250rpm, but the nice thing is after the car is 50' out it never sees under 17.5psi so it does well.

I never said it wont work, problem I see is in 1st gear. It will most definately slip a little, in the beginning of the year it was pretty bad but after I found the EWP dripping on the belt I though I had that handled. But as soon as it cooled off it started doing it again, how much of a real world different in ET it makes I dont know but you can see the boost level off very early in 1st gear and lose 2-3psi (you can ever hear the belt screech in the car sometimes), in second everything catches back up. Most likely the slip that I'm seeing wont affect 99% of other people one bit, but I know Jayson is looking for ET.

But OTOH that little bit of slip may be helping to not spin the damper off the tiny crank snout on the launch and most definately the slip when I dump the throttle is a good thing. I just think if you are after 100% no slip drag racing performance with an F1C or F1R the SDCE wont do it, I look forward to seeng some results next year.

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

Hmmm, you know what-I may take a step backwards and go with the F1A. I've been hassled enough about having a big blower but having a dog down the track. So I really have a point to prove, so what better way than to prove it with a "baby blower".

kp

iTrader: (34)

If you have the F1C i would run it, ETs have a lot more to do than just making power and since its in your possesion why not work with it. The trusty old D1SC is on my car again and like last year thats will be on the car 80% of the time.

Since I dont heads up race the car, if it runs 8.90s or 9.20s it makes little difference really. But the little d1 just chugs along quietly with the 7.25/3.7 pulley. And I think the car still 60 foots the best with the D1 and the 7.25/3.4 pulley.

All these blowers have their place, I compare my car against similar CID/weight combos and if I am running within a few tenths of the fastest/quickest in the country with that size blower than I'm pretty happy. I see a D1SC being capable of 9.00s on my car, the F1A 8.70s, F1C 8.40s and and F1R 8.1x or so. Since my chassis stuff is only good to 8.50 no reason even thinking F1C or F1R really for me. For a heavy street car it really doesnt matter, you can put a F1R on it and have it run 9.90s @ 145 and everyone is happy, but if I had an F1R on my car and it ran 8.90s I would be pretty disappointed so its all relative.

Main thing is for YOU to be happy with it, I really just go out to the track and have fun with the car. Sure I'd like to run this or that number and I'd be lying if I didnt feel some competition to go a little quicker than certain others but i refuse too burn the thing down trying because fixing the car is not fun

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

Well i only had 4 Full passes down the track-while working on the tune and getting used to the auto. With those 4 passes I ran 9.8,9.7,9.6 and 9.6-the rest where all either shut down and aborted-actually my 9.67 was an abort. Everytime i went to the track it was 85 degrees out or warmer as well. My car will never 60 foot faster than a 1.4-nor do I want it to-the chassis is just not made for it. So I have to be able to leave soft but have the power come on hard. The 402 and the mild 3200 stall should work well. Actually it's funny-i've never spun the tires on the dyno-but while i was building my maf table it blew off the tires!

Right now I don't have a head unit-I was leaning heavily towards a F2M-then said nah just go for the F1R-then after talking to some mod motor guys went to the F1C-then actually jumped ship and thought about a Ysi.

Dave@CDN perf just picked up a brand new 224X Dynojet that I will have the key to. We just took my 402 apart and installed a new blower cam, some morel lifters, some AFR 225's. I'm going to slap on the F1A with the LS6 intake and then a Vic Jr and then try one more blower grind.

My goal is simple-run faster than the current 9.33 record set by a Novi in a C5-I want to be the first A4 car to do it. Once I achieve that-then i'll try the F1R that my good buddy Dallas has-cause I know he'll be upping to a F2M as soon as those 12 ribs's are ready!

kp

iTrader: (34)

I'm sure an f1a can easily run faster than a 9.33 in an auto Z06, if you would have spent more time with your old 346/F1C I'm sure you would have beat it.

But it would be way cooler to be the first supercharged C5 with an A4 and IRS in the 8s though

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

All I need to do is make 900 rwhp and I think that should be enough in ideal conditions to put the car in the 9.0's-8.90's range. I sold my Patriots and just swapped over to the AFR225's-Dave@CDN perf and myself came up with another cam that specs out at 238/246 but not the lobes everyone would assume. My new 402 comes in at 9.99 CR with the AFR's. I'm going to dyno the car locked and unlocked to see where my converter is at-then i may also try a Vic Jr intake as well to see if helps push the motor up to 7000 rpm. Come middle of january after some time on the dyno were gonna head up to " House of Hook"-oh and I also picked up a "baby blower"-my guess i will be able to spin this to redline wihtout fear of slip. We'll see.

kp

iTrader: (34)

Power isnt the issue really, its keeping the rear and trans in the car at those levels.

Let me know when you go to carolina, I may go down there. Nice track but make sure you have a chute on the car if you plan on going over 145, the end comes up pretty quick there. I'm going to make a few 1/8 passes in a few minutes and get everything broken in,

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

Exactly-that's why i'm keeping the 3200 stall-makes for a soft launch. As for the chute-well eventually-but I still have those amazing Z06 brakes on the car!!!
I'll keep you psoted for sure kp-it would great to meet you!

Oh and to bring this thread back on topic-guys I would recomend the F1A to try first over the F1C or R-with our eight rib belt system-it's imperrative to get a blower that you can spin easier.

Blownramair

all righty... i think the SDCE setup should handle the F1C, if not, procharger makes the brackety for a cog setup and their fancy spring valve thingy... which should work. i may just need some more space underneath the car...

J

kp

iTrader: (34)

F1C will fit with no problem, biggest pain is getting an elbow on there to use a filter since the inlet is larger diameter. If you want to use a filter anyhow..

I thought you were going turbo

Blownramair

No filter on this car... never ran one with the D1... I really think the F1C and SDCE will work with an 8" crank and possibly 3.7" blower pulley... hell ill vht the **** outta the belt... that F1C sounds ****** sick!

And goes for the turbo... we'll thats when i get the money for a 25.5 cage, a2w intercooler should i keep goin? the money to fab up this fandazzle... haha and plenty more to spend their too...

The engine will handle 25-30psi w/o any problem w/ the 6bolt heads... Besides i love the sound of a procharger rather than a turbo... i'll give up the extra 100 or so horse for the SOUND...

And did i mention... i still go grocery shopping in this car... LoL... 8.50s is more than enough for a street car... u think?

J

kp

iTrader: (34)

I like the blowers myself, I know I could go faster with a turbo as well but the SDCE/procharger is just such a simple, trouble free and compact package its hard to make the switch for me. But then again I'm not worried about keeping up with 7 second cars at the local track.

I could drive mine anywhere, I'm just one of those people who cant go 100 feet in a fast car and not floor it so I would just get myself in trouble if I cruised it. Got too much to lose these days if something bad happened, this thing is a luxury cruiser compared to some other 8-9 second cars I drove quite a bit in the past

Blownramair

haha... we both god some nice rides. i wish mine black tho. im soo mixed on what procharger to choose. anywho, thanks for all your help guys!

J

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

Jay maybe wait until Bob get's that 12 rib setup-then you could probaby use the F2M. If you want cogs take a look at what the mod motor guys setup looks like. Basically it's 2 spacers on each head and then a plate that goes across them with the blower mounted-that would be the ticket for a Cog.

Blownramair

you got a link? i tried a yahoo search and all i can find is some crazy mustang forum crap. thanks man!

J

SDCE

Remember, when we made our tensioner system, F series blowers were not even available! Our tensioner system was designed as a fix for the average "street" cars using the P series and the D series blowers up to 1000HP. As far as not working with the F series making a ton of nut like you, KP, we see no reason it shouldn't work with a little extra R&D and testing. We haven't seen enough people in this range with severe belt slip issues to warrant modifications or a new tensioner design, but if you guys want it, we'll make it....the original SDCE tensioner is tried and true, and we can certainly handle the task of taking it to the next level. Assuming the 8 rib belts can stand up to it...

You probably know this already KP, but for those that want some insight, the slip you're seeing in first gear is from INSTANT ACCELERATION!! trans brake and stick cars are good for this. the engine goes from high rpm's to low rpm's instantly. At that point in time, the tensioner is physically on the wrong side of the belt. The blower is spinning faster than the engine -trying to "drive" it. If and when you want to mess with the C or the R KP, you let us know and we'll make sure our tensioner stands up to the task as long as the 8 rib belts will take it!

As far as Cog drive, think of the same instant acceleration rate as discussed above - the rpm's still go from high to low instantly - all that energy still has to go somewhere...it just gets filtered thru the crank and the engine ultimately beating the hell out of it. (take a credit card and bend it back and forth...you can only do it so many times before it breaks) In our research and testing, cog systems didn't stand up to 450 or so HP, so we couldn't see how the hell it was going to stand up and last for any more than that?? UNLESS you're a professional race team and you can afford to replace your crank and/or engine on a regular basis, cog systems aren't very practical or efficient for the everyday racer.