My build - Lots of pics
The car feels good without it. I have not pushed it in any corners though. If i wanted a car that handled great, or i was going to road race i wouldn't get something with a solid rear end. The purpose of this car is to be fast, and go strait. I can dive in an out of traffic, and do quick lane changes, and its fine.
Ive put maybe 140 miles on it with no sway bar, and im not worried about it not being there.
Ps.. Im not saying these cars cannot be made to handle great, but i would of went a different route if i wanted to road race.
Chris
We bought it from a moderator on the site. Smokinhawk
He makes them, and sells a couple different versions. I bought it just to not have to screw with it.
Chris
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Its a spool 35 spline axle with chromoly torque arm, and drag rear sway bar.

Here is nice pic from last time @ the track.

Other then that the car right now is parked in the garage. End of the season i was having issues with the car pulling tons timing, so i think i might pick up hp tuners, and try to tune it myself next yr. Or i will pay to have it finished, but i want to go sd. THis winter i was going to do a th400, and cage and take weight out, but for right now i think the car will stay how it sits. I want to buy a new dd, and want to buy a new house in the next couple yrs, so mods may be slow.
Chris
http://www.fquick.com/videos/2_step_burnout/7154
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQDZSiYL8VU
In the 2nd video you can hear the 2 step, good and see it launch. On the top end it was down about 10 mph from earlier in the season, which is why i need to data log, and look into hp tuners.
Let me know what u think.
Chris
SD
IF i had gone with a tc76 i would of had enough room to get a 3 inch dp on the pass side. Lots of people do it this way, as well as the kentucky turbo kit.
With my pte gt4276 it just worked better this way. with the turbo facing the other way with the charge side clocked down, it put the outlet on charge side closer to the motor. I would of had to move the turbo further away from the motor to get it to work like that, and even doing the stand up griffin radiator i didn't really have the room.
All that being said, it was our first time doing ne thing like this, we looked at it, and it made more sense to do it the way i did, and i didn't really care about exhuast.
As far as bends. i believe you could do the hot side with 4 90's and some straigh pieces.
I would use 2 90's to make a merge, and 1 90 off the manifold pointing at each other. Ic piping, you would be best off again with 90's, and maybe a couple 45's but could probably just turn 90's and be ok.
Good luck, Chris

I have had lots of small issues. When i got the rear end in, and got it on a tire, we could not 60 ft @ all. The car would fall on its face on launches. The best we ever ran Was a 12.0 @ 117 with like a 2.0 60 ft.
Then we put a 2 step on the car. Then i started having issues. The car was pulling all the timing out above 4k and pretty much went no where. I think it could be a little bit of the tune going lean cause of the gear change, maybe bad gas? or oil in the intake from the pcv crap. Im trying to take care of all these issues now, get it back on the dyno, do a speed density tune and get it running better next yr.
With the car falling on its face, but with 2 step we went 12.4 @ 110 with 1.71 60 fts.
I think the car has not been making all the power it should have been up top all yr, and might be due to the maf tune. Most cars mph higher then me, but all these runs were @ 6 psi, on 80+ degree days. I think the car has a 11.7 or so in it @ 6 psi with the 6 spd. 8 or 9 psi, i think a low 11. Hopefully.
Ps another little part of my problem was possibly going with a 1.12 ar vs the more popular 96. Probably a bit much for these cubes, but maybe when i build a 370 or something it will benefit me???
Chris







can't wait to see what it actually puts down after the springs. My old car has come a looooooooooonnnngggg way