Is there any reason NOT to go with an STS kit?
03-29-2008, 05:40 PM
#81
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Here's what STS considers customer service. These are ALL THE PROBLEMS the kits have and what you have to track down.
Oil leaking at the turbochargers and/or oil smoke from the exhaust is almost always an oiling system problem or an electrical problem and almost never a turbocharger problem. Any time oil is leaking into the turbine or compressor of the turbocharger, it typically means that the oil level inside the turbocharger is being allowed to rise up to or past the level of the shaft. This is usually caused because the oil is NOT being properly evacuated from the turbocharger by the oil system. There are no "Magic" seals inside the turbo to contain oil pressure within the turbo. The turbocharger basically has a loose fitting shaft that is supported within 2 bushings. If the oil level inside the turbo reaches the level of the shaft, it will overflow and spill out through the bushings just as filling up a cup past the top will cause it to spill over the sides. Keeping this in mind, here are the steps to diagnose the problem:
NEW INSTALLATIONS: For an oil problem on a vehicle with a new system that hasn't been running (not a vehicle that has been working fine but now has an oiling issue) we need to cover the basics. First, review the installation manual to make sure that all the steps were followed concerning the following:
OIL PUMP INSTALLATION (including the polarity and wire placement - YELLOW wire always goes to the OUTLET side of the pump)
OIL HOSE ROUTING (this is actually very critical and must be done EXACTLY as the manual says)
ELECTRICAL HARNESS INSTALLATION and more specifically (TESTING OF THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM at the end of the manual)
CLOCKING OF THE TURBOCHARGERS (must be straight up and down with oil outlet exactly straight down)
OIL PUMP BREAK IN PROCEDURE (must be followed and the oil pump should be run on HIGH SPEED for first 50 miles)
Once the basics have been rechecked and check out OK, make sure that the ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TESTS at the end of the instruction manual have been done and that everything is working as described in the tests. This includes making sure that the oil pump is operating with the fuel pump and cycles on for 2-3 seconds each time the key is cycled to the ON position (some applications don't cycle for 2-3 seconds). There are often several wires of the same color and tapping into the wrong wire can produce intermittent oil pump issues. Most oiling system problems are related to an electrical problem. The following tests will walk you through diagnosing the electrical system:
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TESTS:
With the key turned to the ON position, you should be able to hear the oil pump turn on for approximately 2 seconds (some vehicles including the 05 GTO, 05 C6 and 05 Mustang are different - refer to install manual). If the pump isn't running during this test, you need to check the BLUE wire in the STS harness to make sure it is getting power from the fuel pump wire. If you have power, make sure that the 15 amp fuse is installed in the wiring harness. If the pump is still not running at this stage, it may be easier to unplug the BLUE wire from the fuel pump T-Tap and supply 12v+ to the BLUE wire directly from the battery. This will power up the system so you can do the diagnostic checks on the electrical harness and not have to keep cycling the key ON and OFF. Once you have constant power to the BLUE wire, perform the following tests using a multimeter and/or a test light:
1- Check for voltage at the BLUE wire at the MAIN RELAY terminal (85). This is the trigger voltage that turns the relay ON. If there is no voltage, check the BLUE wire for a short and for power.
2- Check for voltage at the LARGE RED single wire at the MAIN RELAY terminal (30). This is the power supply for the relay. If there is no voltage there, check the 15 amp fuse for power and check the power supply to the RED wire at the fuse block or power supply.
3- Check the BLACK wire at the MAIN RELAY terminal (86) for GROUND. This is the ground supply for the relay. This can be done by placing the test light clip on the battery (+) terminal and probing the BLACK wire terminal. Check the ground wire connection at the frame and/or factory ground location according to the instruction manual.
4- Check for voltage at the SMALL RED wire(s) at the MAIN RELAY terminal (87). This is the relay output voltage. If there is no voltage at this wire and the previous tests passed, the relay is bad. Replace the relay (you can try swapping the secondary relay for the main relay). If swapping the relays puts voltage to the small RED wire, the oil pump should run but won't be able to switch speeds (you may need to change the position of the high speed switch to get the oil pump to turn on). The relay can be replaced with a common automotive 30 amp (fan style) relay available at most auto parts stores.
5- Check for voltage at the SMALL RED wire at the SECONDARY RELAY terminal (30). This is the power supply for the secondary relay. If there is no voltage, check the SMALL RED wire for short or bad connection at the relay terminals.
6- Check for voltage at the YELLOW wire at the SECONDARY RELAY center terminal (87a). This is the output voltage during the normally closed (LOW SPEED) position. Check for voltage at the BROWN or BLUE wire at the SECONDARY RELAY terminal (85). There should be NO voltage during normal operation (LOW SPEED). If there is voltage, switch the oil pump speed over-ride switch (if applicable). This should cut the voltage to the BLUE or BROWN wire and supply voltage to the YELLOW wire at terminal (87a). If the previous tests pass and there is no output voltage at terminal (87a) then the SECONDARY RELAY is bad. The relay can be replaced with a common automotive 30 amp (fan style) relay available at most auto parts stores.
7- Check for voltage at the YELLOW wire at the input side (the RELAY side) of the GOLD inline resistor. There should be 12 volts. If there is no voltage, check for a short in the YELLOW wire between the resistor and the SECONDARY RELAY.
8- Check for voltage at the YELLOW wire at the output side (the oil pump side) of the GOLD inline resistor. There should be approximately 8 volts. If there is no voltage, the inline resistor is bad. Applying 12 volts to the output side of the resistor at the YELLOW wire should power up the oil pump and run the oil pump at HIGH speed. This should also be able to be done by switching the oil pump speed over-ride switch to HIGH SPEED or applying 12v to the BLUE or BROWN wire at SECONDARY RELAY terminal (85).
9- Check for voltage at the YELLOW wire at the oil pump (on the pump outlet side - to valve cover/engine). If there is no voltage, check for a short in the YELLOW wire between the inline resistor and the oil pump.
10- Check for voltage at the terminal on the oil pump that the YELLOW wire is connected to. There should be 12 volts. If there is no voltage, check the electrical connector on the end of the YELLOW wire for a short in the connector.
11- Check the BLACK wire at the terminal on the oil pump (on the pump inlet side - from turbocharger). This wire should be a good GROUND. If there is no GROUND, check the BLACK wire for a short and/or a bad connection at the ground terminal and/or factory ground connection.
12- If there is 12 volt supply to the oil pump terminal (YELLOW wire) and there is a good GROUND supply to the oil pump terminal (BLACK wire) then the oil pump may be bad. Lightly tap on the side of the pump with the handle of a screwdriver. If the pump turns on, it is suggested that the break-in procedure be repeated for the oil pump and that the oil pump be run on HIGH SPEED for 5-10 minutes and then left on HIGH SPEED during the first 50 miles of driving. If the pump doesn't turn on, disconnect the power supply to the oil pump and remove the 4 screws on the bottom plate of the oil pump. Be careful as the gears in the pump may fall out once the plate is removed. Mark the gears so that they can be reinstalled in the same position that they came out of (reinstalling in different position will still run but may make excessive noise). Look for any debris that may be stuck in the pump gears causing the motor to not turn. Manually try to turn the gears forward and backward. If the pump won't turn forward but will turn backward, there is most likely debris in the gears. Remove the gears and clean out the pump and gears. Remove any debris and replace the gears and the cover plate and try turning on the pump. With the gears free and power and ground applied to the pump, if the pump still doesn't run then the pump should be replaced. If the pump has over 20,000 miles on it, the brushes could be worn enough to cause the pump to have intermittent running problems. If the pump has been contaminated with oil and/or water/chemicals, the pump could be damaged and need to be replaced.
13- If the pump runs on low speed but does not run at high speed, check the RED wire at the 1 psi pressure switch for voltage. If there is no voltage, check the RED wire for short between the 1 psi switch and the MAIN RELAY terminal (87).
Oil leaking at the turbochargers and/or oil smoke from the exhaust is almost always an oiling system problem or an electrical problem and almost never a turbocharger problem. Any time oil is leaking into the turbine or compressor of the turbocharger, it typically means that the oil level inside the turbocharger is being allowed to rise up to or past the level of the shaft. This is usually caused because the oil is NOT being properly evacuated from the turbocharger by the oil system. There are no "Magic" seals inside the turbo to contain oil pressure within the turbo. The turbocharger basically has a loose fitting shaft that is supported within 2 bushings. If the oil level inside the turbo reaches the level of the shaft, it will overflow and spill out through the bushings just as filling up a cup past the top will cause it to spill over the sides. Keeping this in mind, here are the steps to diagnose the problem:
NEW INSTALLATIONS: For an oil problem on a vehicle with a new system that hasn't been running (not a vehicle that has been working fine but now has an oiling issue) we need to cover the basics. First, review the installation manual to make sure that all the steps were followed concerning the following:
OIL PUMP INSTALLATION (including the polarity and wire placement - YELLOW wire always goes to the OUTLET side of the pump)
OIL HOSE ROUTING (this is actually very critical and must be done EXACTLY as the manual says)
ELECTRICAL HARNESS INSTALLATION and more specifically (TESTING OF THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM at the end of the manual)
CLOCKING OF THE TURBOCHARGERS (must be straight up and down with oil outlet exactly straight down)
OIL PUMP BREAK IN PROCEDURE (must be followed and the oil pump should be run on HIGH SPEED for first 50 miles)
Once the basics have been rechecked and check out OK, make sure that the ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TESTS at the end of the instruction manual have been done and that everything is working as described in the tests. This includes making sure that the oil pump is operating with the fuel pump and cycles on for 2-3 seconds each time the key is cycled to the ON position (some applications don't cycle for 2-3 seconds). There are often several wires of the same color and tapping into the wrong wire can produce intermittent oil pump issues. Most oiling system problems are related to an electrical problem. The following tests will walk you through diagnosing the electrical system:
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TESTS:
With the key turned to the ON position, you should be able to hear the oil pump turn on for approximately 2 seconds (some vehicles including the 05 GTO, 05 C6 and 05 Mustang are different - refer to install manual). If the pump isn't running during this test, you need to check the BLUE wire in the STS harness to make sure it is getting power from the fuel pump wire. If you have power, make sure that the 15 amp fuse is installed in the wiring harness. If the pump is still not running at this stage, it may be easier to unplug the BLUE wire from the fuel pump T-Tap and supply 12v+ to the BLUE wire directly from the battery. This will power up the system so you can do the diagnostic checks on the electrical harness and not have to keep cycling the key ON and OFF. Once you have constant power to the BLUE wire, perform the following tests using a multimeter and/or a test light:
1- Check for voltage at the BLUE wire at the MAIN RELAY terminal (85). This is the trigger voltage that turns the relay ON. If there is no voltage, check the BLUE wire for a short and for power.
2- Check for voltage at the LARGE RED single wire at the MAIN RELAY terminal (30). This is the power supply for the relay. If there is no voltage there, check the 15 amp fuse for power and check the power supply to the RED wire at the fuse block or power supply.
3- Check the BLACK wire at the MAIN RELAY terminal (86) for GROUND. This is the ground supply for the relay. This can be done by placing the test light clip on the battery (+) terminal and probing the BLACK wire terminal. Check the ground wire connection at the frame and/or factory ground location according to the instruction manual.
4- Check for voltage at the SMALL RED wire(s) at the MAIN RELAY terminal (87). This is the relay output voltage. If there is no voltage at this wire and the previous tests passed, the relay is bad. Replace the relay (you can try swapping the secondary relay for the main relay). If swapping the relays puts voltage to the small RED wire, the oil pump should run but won't be able to switch speeds (you may need to change the position of the high speed switch to get the oil pump to turn on). The relay can be replaced with a common automotive 30 amp (fan style) relay available at most auto parts stores.
5- Check for voltage at the SMALL RED wire at the SECONDARY RELAY terminal (30). This is the power supply for the secondary relay. If there is no voltage, check the SMALL RED wire for short or bad connection at the relay terminals.
6- Check for voltage at the YELLOW wire at the SECONDARY RELAY center terminal (87a). This is the output voltage during the normally closed (LOW SPEED) position. Check for voltage at the BROWN or BLUE wire at the SECONDARY RELAY terminal (85). There should be NO voltage during normal operation (LOW SPEED). If there is voltage, switch the oil pump speed over-ride switch (if applicable). This should cut the voltage to the BLUE or BROWN wire and supply voltage to the YELLOW wire at terminal (87a). If the previous tests pass and there is no output voltage at terminal (87a) then the SECONDARY RELAY is bad. The relay can be replaced with a common automotive 30 amp (fan style) relay available at most auto parts stores.
7- Check for voltage at the YELLOW wire at the input side (the RELAY side) of the GOLD inline resistor. There should be 12 volts. If there is no voltage, check for a short in the YELLOW wire between the resistor and the SECONDARY RELAY.
8- Check for voltage at the YELLOW wire at the output side (the oil pump side) of the GOLD inline resistor. There should be approximately 8 volts. If there is no voltage, the inline resistor is bad. Applying 12 volts to the output side of the resistor at the YELLOW wire should power up the oil pump and run the oil pump at HIGH speed. This should also be able to be done by switching the oil pump speed over-ride switch to HIGH SPEED or applying 12v to the BLUE or BROWN wire at SECONDARY RELAY terminal (85).
9- Check for voltage at the YELLOW wire at the oil pump (on the pump outlet side - to valve cover/engine). If there is no voltage, check for a short in the YELLOW wire between the inline resistor and the oil pump.
10- Check for voltage at the terminal on the oil pump that the YELLOW wire is connected to. There should be 12 volts. If there is no voltage, check the electrical connector on the end of the YELLOW wire for a short in the connector.
11- Check the BLACK wire at the terminal on the oil pump (on the pump inlet side - from turbocharger). This wire should be a good GROUND. If there is no GROUND, check the BLACK wire for a short and/or a bad connection at the ground terminal and/or factory ground connection.
12- If there is 12 volt supply to the oil pump terminal (YELLOW wire) and there is a good GROUND supply to the oil pump terminal (BLACK wire) then the oil pump may be bad. Lightly tap on the side of the pump with the handle of a screwdriver. If the pump turns on, it is suggested that the break-in procedure be repeated for the oil pump and that the oil pump be run on HIGH SPEED for 5-10 minutes and then left on HIGH SPEED during the first 50 miles of driving. If the pump doesn't turn on, disconnect the power supply to the oil pump and remove the 4 screws on the bottom plate of the oil pump. Be careful as the gears in the pump may fall out once the plate is removed. Mark the gears so that they can be reinstalled in the same position that they came out of (reinstalling in different position will still run but may make excessive noise). Look for any debris that may be stuck in the pump gears causing the motor to not turn. Manually try to turn the gears forward and backward. If the pump won't turn forward but will turn backward, there is most likely debris in the gears. Remove the gears and clean out the pump and gears. Remove any debris and replace the gears and the cover plate and try turning on the pump. With the gears free and power and ground applied to the pump, if the pump still doesn't run then the pump should be replaced. If the pump has over 20,000 miles on it, the brushes could be worn enough to cause the pump to have intermittent running problems. If the pump has been contaminated with oil and/or water/chemicals, the pump could be damaged and need to be replaced.
13- If the pump runs on low speed but does not run at high speed, check the RED wire at the 1 psi pressure switch for voltage. If there is no voltage, check the RED wire for short between the 1 psi switch and the MAIN RELAY terminal (87).
03-29-2008, 05:41 PM
#82
turbo, supercharger... both are mechanical systems. over time what ever it is you get tinkering around to get them working properly is going to be an issue regardless. if you don't want to mess around with adjustments, go all motor... which i should have done. i'm on the sts learning curve and the car isn't even done yet.
03-29-2008, 06:41 PM
#84
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I bought mine from a friend who had all the work already done. the car was fully tuned, and all most all the issues fixed. I didn;t have to install my kit but since I have had the car the only problem I have every had is related to the laziness of the shop that installed the kit.
I have changed out the little *** IC mounted on the rad. for a bigger fmic. also changed from the stock y-pipe to a 2.5 " s/s mac. it's not the fastest thing in AZ, but it's better then 90% of the cars down here. with stock suspension (@98k miles
) the car ran a 13.3 @120.37 walking off the line. I didn't even try to launch, this was at SIR which is 35XX + feet above sea level.
as said before there is alot of hidden cost, I only payed like 250 total for my intercooler set-up. I see like 10 degrees over out side air with out the meth.
that run was at 8-9 psi with meth. 3/4 tank of gas of 100/91 gas, no weight reduction. 3,628 with me in it. not really sure if thats good for a sts f-body but most of the people at the track were shocked.
I enjoyed as well. good luck with what ever you choose.
I have changed out the little *** IC mounted on the rad. for a bigger fmic. also changed from the stock y-pipe to a 2.5 " s/s mac. it's not the fastest thing in AZ, but it's better then 90% of the cars down here. with stock suspension (@98k miles
) the car ran a 13.3 @120.37 walking off the line. I didn't even try to launch, this was at SIR which is 35XX + feet above sea level.as said before there is alot of hidden cost, I only payed like 250 total for my intercooler set-up. I see like 10 degrees over out side air with out the meth.
that run was at 8-9 psi with meth. 3/4 tank of gas of 100/91 gas, no weight reduction. 3,628 with me in it. not really sure if thats good for a sts f-body but most of the people at the track were shocked.
I enjoyed as well. good luck with what ever you choose.
03-29-2008, 06:44 PM
#85
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knock yourself out your doing no one any good . your pissed due to the fact you dont have the mechanical aptitude to fix minor issues that most of us have, there are plenty of post on here on how to fix these small issues you keep bringing up. every kit has these small issues. get out of modding your car if you cant handle the small repairs. THERE ARE NO PERFECT KITS !!!
03-29-2008, 07:01 PM
#87
I bought mine from a friend who had all the work already done. the car was fully tuned, and all most all the issues fixed. I didn;t have to install my kit but since I have had the car the only problem I have every had is related to the laziness of the shop that installed the kit.
I have changed out the little *** IC mounted on the rad. for a bigger fmic. also changed from the stock y-pipe to a 2.5 " s/s mac. it's not the fastest thing in AZ, but it's better then 90% of the cars down here. with stock suspension (@98k miles) the car ran a 13.3 @120.37 walking off the line. I didn't even try to launch, this was at SIR which is 35XX + feet above sea level.
as said before there is alot of hidden cost, I only payed like 250 total for my intercooler set-up. I see like 10 degrees over out side air with out the meth.
that run was at 8-9 psi with meth. 3/4 tank of gas of 100/91 gas, no weight reduction. 3,628 with me in it. not really sure if thats good for a sts f-body but most of the people at the track were shocked.
I enjoyed as well. good luck with what ever you choose.
I have changed out the little *** IC mounted on the rad. for a bigger fmic. also changed from the stock y-pipe to a 2.5 " s/s mac. it's not the fastest thing in AZ, but it's better then 90% of the cars down here. with stock suspension (@98k miles
) the car ran a 13.3 @120.37 walking off the line. I didn't even try to launch, this was at SIR which is 35XX + feet above sea level.as said before there is alot of hidden cost, I only payed like 250 total for my intercooler set-up. I see like 10 degrees over out side air with out the meth.
that run was at 8-9 psi with meth. 3/4 tank of gas of 100/91 gas, no weight reduction. 3,628 with me in it. not really sure if thats good for a sts f-body but most of the people at the track were shocked.
I enjoyed as well. good luck with what ever you choose.
03-29-2008, 07:11 PM
#88
Launching!
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knock yourself out your doing no one any good . your pissed due to the fact you dont have the mechanical aptitude to fix minor issues that most of us have, there are plenty of post on here on how to fix these small issues you keep bringing up. every kit has these small issues. get out of modding your car if you cant handle the small repairs. THERE ARE NO PERFECT KITS !!!
Don't get pissy pants because people are posting up why the STS kit sucks and you're personally offended by it.
As far mechanical aptitude, yeah maybe I'm just a shade tree mechanic, but I went 10's with it before the turbo STS supplied failed at the track.
03-29-2008, 07:53 PM
#90
now hold on i thought the procharger was an install and forget kit??? what happend to its a complete kit? so you have to update to an 8 rib , mess with cooling fans, change the oil in the supercharger every 2,000 miles, damn sounds familiar to all the nonsense you all have been saying about the STS kit needing small adjustments applies to the procharger.
just venting but this is what i mean when i say all kits will need some upgrades to get them to work optimually.
anyone have a price on the 8 rib upgrade, fan upgrade and oil change price on the head unit??? just think all the info should come out about the price for the procharger.
just venting but this is what i mean when i say all kits will need some upgrades to get them to work optimually.
anyone have a price on the 8 rib upgrade, fan upgrade and oil change price on the head unit??? just think all the info should come out about the price for the procharger.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=798
The ProCharger 1GJ204-SCI 8 rib kit with the larger intercoolers came out about three years ago. The $90.00 fan upgrade is only needed where people sit in traffic in extreme heat. Here in Indiana in the Summer I haven't found a need for it. Bob
03-29-2008, 09:26 PM
#93
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thanks for the updated info on the fan and belt issue.
who knows one day i just might come to the dark side and give you a call
03-29-2008, 09:39 PM
#94
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Every kit doesn't have these problems, far from it. Mechanical failure of an oil pump is not a small issue. STS sent me a 3 page check list of all the things/problems commonly associated with the kit.
Don't get pissy pants because people are posting up why the STS kit sucks and you're personally offended by it.
As far mechanical aptitude, yeah maybe I'm just a shade tree mechanic, but I went 10's with it before the turbo STS supplied failed at the track.
Don't get pissy pants because people are posting up why the STS kit sucks and you're personally offended by it.
As far mechanical aptitude, yeah maybe I'm just a shade tree mechanic, but I went 10's with it before the turbo STS supplied failed at the track.
I agree totally with you.... I have or shall I say had the STS twin turbo system on my 2004 C5 Corvette. I have or had the fastest C5 twin turbo setup in the country running a 9.72@141mph in the 1/4 mile with a 1.65 sixty foot time. I had oiling issues until I figured out that a restricter was needed to cut down oil pressure going to the turbos causing the turbo seals to blow out. I am in the process of changing to a front mount system. I had poor customer service to the point that made me decide to change systems even though I paid dearly to work out the bugs. I was only running 12 to 14 pounds of boost but I was constantly blowing off air charge pipe hose fittings. I fixed this problem by going to the local John Deere Tractor parts store and bought their tractor turbo hosing which was cheaper than the colorful ones that is sooo expensive online since this wont be seen it goes under the car and into the body panels. The STS supplied hosing is too short and does not provide enough clamping area to stay together under high and prolonged boost. Also, if you have a high performance engine with a high performance oil pump putting out high oil pressure then the restrictor on the oil line going to the turbo is a must or the seal will blow on the turbo. I alerted STS to these failures of their system and their response was very poor. They upgraded my oil pumps and gave me an extra wastegate but that did not compensate me for the approximate six thousand dollars it cost me in new turbos and redesign of oiling system by an engineer.OVERALL, the system worked well when the bugs were fixed but the company puts you on your own to find your path, you will be better off going with a custom front mount system if you have a high horsepower goals of running 9's or 8's in the 1/4 mile. This is my humble opinion based on my personal experience with C5 corvette twin turbo kit from STS.
03-29-2008, 09:56 PM
#95
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I agree totally with you.... I have or shall I say had the STS twin turbo system on my 2004 C5 Corvette. I have or had the fastest C5 twin turbo setup in the country running a 9.72@141mph in the 1/4 mile with a 1.65 sixty foot time. I had oiling issues until I figured out that a restricter was needed to cut down oil pressure going to the turbos causing the turbo seals to blow out. I am in the process of changing to a front mount system. I had poor customer service to the point that made me decide to change systems even though I paid dearly to work out the bugs. I was only running 12 to 14 pounds of boost but I was constantly blowing off air charge pipe hose fittings. I fixed this problem by going to the local John Deere Tractor parts store and bought their tractor turbo hosing which was cheaper than the colorful ones that is sooo expensive online since this wont be seen it goes under the car and into the body panels. The STS supplied hosing is too short and does not provide enough clamping area to stay together under high and prolonged boost. Also, if you have a high performance engine with a high performance oil pump putting out high oil pressure then the restrictor on the oil line going to the turbo is a must or the seal will blow on the turbo. I alerted STS to these failures of their system and their response was very poor. They upgraded my oil pumps and gave me an extra wastegate but that did not compensate me for the approximate six thousand dollars it cost me in new turbos and redesign of oiling system by an engineer.OVERALL, the system worked well when the bugs were fixed but the company puts you on your own to find your path, you will be better off going with a custom front mount system if you have a high horsepower goals of running 9's or 8's in the 1/4 mile. This is my humble opinion based on my personal experience with C5 corvette twin turbo kit from STS.
My motor and set-up was built for bear, but I misjudged the kit. That's why an F1A is on the way to my door
03-29-2008, 10:12 PM
#96
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philly what size restrictor did you use to stop oil from getting into the charge pipes? I have a ls6 in my ws6 and I get small amounts of oil in the charge pipes.
as far as the couplers blowing off, I have had that problem with every car I have ever boosted. having a rolled lip on the end of you pipes is a must,along with t-bolt clamps. worm clamps just don't cut it.
I hear you on the tractor hose, belive it or not I have found that diesel rad. hose works great. it's rated at 30psi and is made to take the heat and abuse, best part is that it only cost like 20 bucks for a foot. one color coupler could cost more then that.
I do run some 4 ply 90's on my car but have yet to have any problems with them.
as far as the couplers blowing off, I have had that problem with every car I have ever boosted. having a rolled lip on the end of you pipes is a must,along with t-bolt clamps. worm clamps just don't cut it.
I hear you on the tractor hose, belive it or not I have found that diesel rad. hose works great. it's rated at 30psi and is made to take the heat and abuse, best part is that it only cost like 20 bucks for a foot. one color coupler could cost more then that.
I do run some 4 ply 90's on my car but have yet to have any problems with them.
03-30-2008, 08:44 AM
#97
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I need to replace my couplers.
I've gotten by with worms, but I'll upgrade to t's soon, when Mike starts changing the charge piping and exhaust.
You HAVE to roll the lip...I kept blowing the charge pipe off the intake until I did this.
A .063 restrictor will do it. I have a .080 on mine now, and it still smokes when I lift off WOT. I have a SLP oil pump on my LQ9. The guys I know with ported Mellings are using a .058.
Agree that the TC76 or whatever they include is garbage. I have a GTS now.
Phil, thanks for posting that information. I'll print it and reference it in the future.
-Ronnie
I've gotten by with worms, but I'll upgrade to t's soon, when Mike starts changing the charge piping and exhaust.
You HAVE to roll the lip...I kept blowing the charge pipe off the intake until I did this.
A .063 restrictor will do it. I have a .080 on mine now, and it still smokes when I lift off WOT. I have a SLP oil pump on my LQ9. The guys I know with ported Mellings are using a .058.
Agree that the TC76 or whatever they include is garbage. I have a GTS now.
Phil, thanks for posting that information. I'll print it and reference it in the future.
-Ronnie
Last edited by geeteego; 03-30-2008 at 09:31 PM.
03-30-2008, 09:44 AM
#98
now hold on i thought the procharger was an install and forget kit??? what happend to its a complete kit? so you have to update to an 8 rib , mess with cooling fans, change the oil in the supercharger every 2,000 miles, damn sounds familiar to all the nonsense you all have been saying about the STS kit needing small adjustments applies to the procharger.
1. You do not have to "upgrade" to an 8 rib if you buy an 8 rib kit from the very begining. Originally, meaning like 5-6 years ago, the kits came with 6 rib pullies. EPP doesn't even sell a 6 rib kit to my knowledge and if you asked for one they would tell you "no, get an 8 rib." I was just trying to steer you away from either a used 6 rib or perhaps there are still vendors selling them new.
2. You do not have to "mess with cooling fans". Down here in Texas when it's 100 degrees I can't run my A/C on the car or the coolant temps will really start to climb. I could either A. take my t-tops off or B. get off my *** and upgrade the fan or add a small second one.
3. You do not change the SC oil every 2K miles. The interval is 6K miles.
I have a D-1SC kit on my '02 from 1300 miles until now (10,200 miles). Guess how much "trouble" and maintenance I have performed? I have changed the oil and adjusted the belt. Whoopee. Oh, and I put an additive in my radiator coolant to help on the super hot days.
03-30-2008, 10:24 AM
#99
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No. You did not read my post closely. Let me spell it out.
1. You do not have to "upgrade" to an 8 rib if you buy an 8 rib kit from the very begining. Originally, meaning like 5-6 years ago, the kits came with 6 rib pullies. EPP doesn't even sell a 6 rib kit to my knowledge and if you asked for one they would tell you "no, get an 8 rib." I was just trying to steer you away from either a used 6 rib or perhaps there are still vendors selling them new.
2. You do not have to "mess with cooling fans". Down here in Texas when it's 100 degrees I can't run my A/C on the car or the coolant temps will really start to climb. I could either A. take my t-tops off or B. get off my *** and upgrade the fan or add a small second one.
3. You do not change the SC oil every 2K miles. The interval is 6K miles.
I have a D-1SC kit on my '02 from 1300 miles until now (10,200 miles). Guess how much "trouble" and maintenance I have performed? I have changed the oil and adjusted the belt. Whoopee. Oh, and I put an additive in my radiator coolant to help on the super hot days.
1. You do not have to "upgrade" to an 8 rib if you buy an 8 rib kit from the very begining. Originally, meaning like 5-6 years ago, the kits came with 6 rib pullies. EPP doesn't even sell a 6 rib kit to my knowledge and if you asked for one they would tell you "no, get an 8 rib." I was just trying to steer you away from either a used 6 rib or perhaps there are still vendors selling them new.
2. You do not have to "mess with cooling fans". Down here in Texas when it's 100 degrees I can't run my A/C on the car or the coolant temps will really start to climb. I could either A. take my t-tops off or B. get off my *** and upgrade the fan or add a small second one.
3. You do not change the SC oil every 2K miles. The interval is 6K miles.
I have a D-1SC kit on my '02 from 1300 miles until now (10,200 miles). Guess how much "trouble" and maintenance I have performed? I have changed the oil and adjusted the belt. Whoopee. Oh, and I put an additive in my radiator coolant to help on the super hot days.
