MECHAM

iTrader: (4)

wow....just wow..........

ninetres

iTrader: (35)

I wish I could give it full load, but my tuner set the rev limiter there. Nothing I can do now. I trust Rick at Synergy, I'm sure I will be fine.

allthrotle

iTrader: (2)

Hurry up and get that thing down to Rick so he can put the ninja tune on it for you. I want to see some more vids but, next time post up some vids of you stomping a mudhole in someone.

70Stang

iTrader: (2)

Every car we build gets lowered off the lift, driven across the shop, loaded on the dyno and BEAT!


Then when our customers pick up the car they always ask "should I break it in..."

Websy21

iTrader: (34)

This too is what I hear is best, give it a couple heat cycles and a oil change first, than beat on it. Change the oil again and than she's go time!

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

Thats how mine is gunna go.

I think Rick is just trying to save ninetres from himself till it makes to the dyno .

Dan

Reject

iTrader: (24)

lol the thread title reminded me of the south park episode of chinpokemon were the asians say, yes american ***** biiiig ours is soooooo tiiiiiiiny you can not see!!

z28adiction

iTrader: (1)

nice sounding car. by the way what hood is that on the car?

ninetres

iTrader: (35)

A Harwood cowl.....can't remember how tall. Three inch maybe???? Fits like poop, looks killer at some angles.

z28adiction

iTrader: (1)

yea thats what i thought it was i really like how its wider. Love how the cam sounds, thats exactly how i want my turbo car to sound when its done. I want people to know im packing something nasty lol what the LSA on that cam 112 with a decent amount of duration

ninetres

iTrader: (35)

114+1 Call Stenod and they will discuss your build and goals for a good 30 minutes with you to design your optimum cam. Best $400 you'll spend on your build.

z28adiction

iTrader: (1)

that cam bumps for 114 very nice ill have to do that. thanks for answering so promptly. I like the 10 point cage with the t-tops off. thats go to get some looks lol. I plan on a cage but don't know if ill need the 10 point or if i can get away with an 8.

z28adiction

iTrader: (1)

Is that a manual rack in your car? if so how do u like it b/c i really wanted to get that bmr package they claim saves 150 pounds and i was wondering what the manual rack was like on the street.

ninetres

iTrader: (35)

I kinda miss power steering. The car HATES TO TURN with the heavy chrome 17x9.5"/275mm tires up front. The inside of the wheel also rubs the rack a little if I turn the steering wheel real far. Add that to a full spool in the rear and the car ONLY wants to go straight lol.

I think PA racing fucked up on my manual rack mounts. My boy/fabricator had to do all kinds of modification to get it to fit SEMI-correctly. The 4" DP is nice though!

z28adiction

iTrader: (1)

Hmm maybe ill keep the power steering. They say that kit without the maual rack still saves 100 pounds and i plan to run skinnies on the front all the time

ninetres

iTrader: (35)

I doubt switching to a manual rack saves 50lbs. I'd say more like 20-30ish.....but don't quote me on that.

z28adiction

iTrader: (1)

yea who knows, either way not enough for me to get rid of it since it will see alot of street use.

elky489

iTrader: (1)

Hey i heard they break in john deere tractors like this.It was plateau honed and the rings seated instantly,but i wanted the short block I.E bearings a chance to break in a bit,as the motor was set on the tight side as he said he wanted it to be a long lasting street motor.I also wanted some easy time on it to heat cycle the head gaskets and get a good amount of re torquing to make sure the ****** stays sealed up.After the last bad taste sean got in his mouth from texas speed i wanted everything perfect for him,and so far it is perfect.Balanced withing 2 tenths of a gram front to rear and within 1 tenth of a gram on all rods and pistons.Lots of extra time went into valve train and filling of the rings and the way it was honed so he would have ZERO problems with the motor.But i wanted 500 miles put on it.So you keep breaking in your john deeres and we will do it are way.Thanks.

Sean when are you going to ricks,i might want to tag along.



What i find funny is there is thousands of stock short block L.S motors that get turbos slapped on them 30k into there life and have zero ring issues.I wonder how that is if the only way to get it sealed is to start it up and put it wide open at full boost.Hmm makes you think.

elky489

iTrader: (1)

I do agree that a race motors need to be flogged right after it runs,as i do this on all mine,but seans is a street motr with alot tighter clearence then a race motor.I set my race motor .003 and .003 rod and crank and its ready to beat.Seans was set and .002 rod and .0025 on the main so that is the biggest reason for the minimal break in period.He can still boost it now just cant rev it.I gaurentee his rings are already seated though and wont be a issue.

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

What rings and what are the gaps? Have you busted open the filter yet? So the difference between a race and street motor is the bearing clearance regardless of the application, i.e NA, FI, nitrous?

My problem is i would get locked up if I drove it on the street, so the dyno is an only option for me .