jeremym

iTrader: (3)

Is a cog set up good for a DD

kp

iTrader: (34)

I wouldnt waste your time with cogs for anything up to an F1A, I have been running the same 8 rib belt on mine for almost two years now with an SDCE spring tensioner.

jeremym

iTrader: (3)

Did it slip without the spring tensioner? How do you like the sdce and did it help you? How much and where to get it?

jeremym

iTrader: (3)

Can anybody post some more dynos with a procharger on a stroker? With pump gas, race gas? How much boost? I am trying to decide between a F1A or APS TT 427 kit.

jeremym

iTrader: (3)

Should I go with a F1C instead of F1A? What would the diff be between the both? Horsepower? Both around 14psi. Do you have to do anything diff to mount the F1C? I will be doing a LS7 427.

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

I'll have some numbers for you pretty soon (week or so). I don't have an F1A but on my setup in my sig I'm making 10psi on a 4" pulley, I have a 3.7" and a couple of other goodies. I'm hoping for another 4-5psi and high 700's.

I just need to figure out the belt I need for an 8 rib with the 3.7" pulley!

kp

iTrader: (34)

I'm pretty sure if I didnt have an SDCE on my car it would have had a turbo on it a couple years ago. The LS F-body procharger bracket setup is not really made for big power drag racing, if you stay F1A or under the SDCE (or ATI 8-rib if you dont mind changing belts fairly often) will be fine, IMO its not enough for something like a F1R, it may do a F1C but I dont know, big difference between dyno and dragstrip as far as belt slip goes.

Only one place to buy the SDCE drive from..

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Here is an ATI ProCharger F-1A on an LS2/402 with unported AFR 225 heads. LS2 intake, LS2 throttle body, Kooks 1-7/8 headers. 14.4 psi of boost for now, we'll up it down the road. This is on our Mustang Chassis Dyno, Dynojet numbers would be higher. Bob

jeremym

iTrader: (3)

Will the sdce help from changing the belt often? And how often do you have to change it?

jeremym

iTrader: (3)

What pulley would you go with? Motor will be 9.5 comp.How accurate are the pulleys? I see they come in 14lbs or 16lbs pulley. So how did you get 14.4psi ? Also I think I read you recomended getting a k&n air filter for the kit instead of there filter. Is that true and why? BTW I will be running your FMIC kit on this set up

pozesd99'

iTrader: (3)

cog belt syste, dumdumdum...
we put a f1a on 18lbs and had serious belt slippage on a cobra

Jake@EPP

The cts has a gto crank pulley so its setup difrent, as a 7in vs your 7.65 crank pulley. It has a 4.13 pulley and sees 14psi. So at 6500rpm it sees right about 59491rpm. For your setup to see around the same airflow, you would need a 4.5in pulley, 59670rpm.

Also, when pulleying up these larger blowers, it does increase the strain on the belt. Like any car running more boost / high hp it is a wise decision to have a good tune-up , and depending on hp you will need racefuel.

The pulleys come in sizes not pounds lol.

We usualy put the biggest filter in there when we can, this is due to the ATI stocker not being big enough to flow proper inlet air.

The fact of reality is that the ATI Fbody kit was not designed for a high hp F1 blower, im betting it was not even designed for a cranked up d1sc.

The base kit is a p1 kit with 6rib, you can get a 8rib if you run more boost, but ati probally didnt expect people to be running this much hp on street cars.

The ATI bracket may not be enough for a daily driven street car, you will have to tension the belt more then it needs to battle belt slip. As KP said, the SDCE is the only option for this situation.

As far as pulleys go, we see max impeller speed at 7k with a 3.90, it turns about 18-20psi. As far as efficency, we used to see 130-150ish IAT's with our epp fmic setup. Now with a w2a those are below ambient. We still have to tighten the belt every run or boost will drop off.

Like anything else, when your trying to max a setup out, you will encounter big issues, look at some of the bigger ford classes running spec blowers having to tighten the belt like crazy, 1 belt a run gets pricey.

kp

iTrader: (34)

I have never HAD to change a belt.



Dont compare Cobras with these, the F-body uses a dedicated pulley for just the blower and an 8 rib with a spring tensioner can handle the F1A just fine. Thats not supposition its fact, many have tried a cog setup with the ATI brackets and have had little luck in the past, why reinvent the wheel when for 700.00 you can do the SDCE and you are done.

F1C/F1R I would certainly look into a cog if you were drag racing the car, but just slapping a couple cog pulleys on there and maxing out an F1R isnt that easy on one of these..

Jake@EPP

Aint that the truth

We have thought a few diff ways into doing so, but nothing has came of yet.

As for cogs, its almost useless to run a setup without getting into the 60mm range where you can get a kevlar backed belt. FYI 60mm is just about 2 x a 8rib belt wide.

A custom radiator would be a requirement and chopping the front support, defiantly not a retail kit, all custom race-car stuff.

Only other venu would be a gear drive unit from Supercharger-store, these run in the range of 3-4k, im betting non street able.

kp

iTrader: (34)

Gear drive would be the way to go really, but you would have to do some serious moving stuff around to fit that on one of these cars. I was thinking of a gear driven F2/LSX but talk about some weight on the nose..

Jake@EPP

Not as bad as the whole 9 yards going on the front of the promod style gto were working with lol, f3 , dry sump tank, gear drive, fuel cell. Might as well be fwd at that point.

A custom bracket for a f2 would get it done for sure, anything over a small f1 will probably bend the ATI alum bracket anyways.