My DIY C6 mani turbo kit
#41
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curious to why you didnt use a truck manafold or fbody manafold on the driver side to avoid clearance issues?
MUSTANGBRKR02
I haven't been under the car in a couple of weeks, so once I get back to it and the kit bolted back together, I will look at addressing the brake line issue.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions.
Glenn
#42
If you would have used the truck manifolds the alternator would need to be relocated. My guess is you would have a hell of a time finding room for your mechanical scavenge pump in that scenario unless you ditched power steering or A/C. Oh, and the kit looks outstanding!
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VIPRETR2, you are right and seeing that my DP's run in between the rack and alternator, there was no way I could run a truck manifold forward facing.
WS6HUMMER, something else I forgot to mention. The truck manifold 3 bolt flange is farther down and farther back compared to the C6 manifolds. So another reason I went with both C6's is because they made it possible to make the bend into the fender well area so I could run the piping to the T4 flange at the turbo.
I hope the system work good, I have spent a lot of time on it.
Although I said it before, there are a couple of areas I would run differently already, but I am going to run the system and check for flaws and than make some changes.
The system is capable of haveing twin TC78's on it with S covers on the turbos. Even though I doubt I will ever get anything bigger than the 66's
Glenn
WS6HUMMER, something else I forgot to mention. The truck manifold 3 bolt flange is farther down and farther back compared to the C6 manifolds. So another reason I went with both C6's is because they made it possible to make the bend into the fender well area so I could run the piping to the T4 flange at the turbo.
I hope the system work good, I have spent a lot of time on it.
Although I said it before, there are a couple of areas I would run differently already, but I am going to run the system and check for flaws and than make some changes.
The system is capable of haveing twin TC78's on it with S covers on the turbos. Even though I doubt I will ever get anything bigger than the 66's
Glenn
#45
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So um, what about clearance around the steering shaft(drivers side situation)?? I have two C6 manifolds and mounted them up facing forwards and backwards and looked like the driver side was a major PITA with the stock steering shaft in stock location. Did it get moved at all with the new k-member, or did it move or get modified by moving the steering rack mounts lower than stock? Im curious on this info. Also more info on the copper gasket for the C6 manifolds would be cool too...they look like they're gonna be quite some "fun" in getting them to seal correctly since its that 2 bolt design.
And yes i got these manifolds a long time ago and thats the first thing i noticed>>C6 manifolds have HUGE mandingo ports on them, they look killer!
And yes i got these manifolds a long time ago and thats the first thing i noticed>>C6 manifolds have HUGE mandingo ports on them, they look killer!
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BOOOO...you need twin 76's at least. It will break 400rwhp with them
Hmm, I wonder how much of a difference spool time would be going from 66's to 76's on my 347.
Guess I should start thinking about a 427.
Glenn
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fenix999
Hmm, interesting. I did not have any issues with the steering shaft at all.
I hope to have the kit coated by next weekend with some new pictures to show.
I will keep everyone updated as I go.
Glenn
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I finished the car and got it running almost two months ago. I had stock 317 heads and an LS7 cam in the car. With the twin 66's running two .68ar F1 p-trim wheels, the car was a little laggy. However I bought the turbos for a 427 set up.
1st gear yielded 4psi by 5000rpm, 2nd was around 7psi @ 500rpm, 3rd gave me around 11psi and 4th gave me 14psi. All of this was done running the car off of the twin 10lbs springs in the gates. Also keep in mind that this is a 6 speed car. 4th gear pulled really good
Long story short, got the car running on a Friday and lost a rod bearing the next day. I will tear it apart soon to see if I starved the rod bearing of oil or my 7 year old scat I beam rods gave up the ghost @ 14psi, which is probably around 700 @ the tire I believe these rods are rated at 500 horse @ the fly.
I plan to order up an LSX 427 shortblock very soon and get it running again. I am on a budget and I want to pick up a set of 6 bolt heads as well so time will tell.
I have a bunch of pictures. The car ran great, but I did not get to run it in traffic with the AC on. I lost the rod driving out to get the AC charged so I could log ECT's. I did log ECT's during an 85+ degree day and it never went above 200 and I was on it pretty hard for a good hour to get the tune changed for the new turbos.
I will try and post the pictures soon or build and F-Quick site to house all of the pictures.
Thanks,
Glenn
1st gear yielded 4psi by 5000rpm, 2nd was around 7psi @ 500rpm, 3rd gave me around 11psi and 4th gave me 14psi. All of this was done running the car off of the twin 10lbs springs in the gates. Also keep in mind that this is a 6 speed car. 4th gear pulled really good
Long story short, got the car running on a Friday and lost a rod bearing the next day. I will tear it apart soon to see if I starved the rod bearing of oil or my 7 year old scat I beam rods gave up the ghost @ 14psi, which is probably around 700 @ the tire I believe these rods are rated at 500 horse @ the fly.
I plan to order up an LSX 427 shortblock very soon and get it running again. I am on a budget and I want to pick up a set of 6 bolt heads as well so time will tell.
I have a bunch of pictures. The car ran great, but I did not get to run it in traffic with the AC on. I lost the rod driving out to get the AC charged so I could log ECT's. I did log ECT's during an 85+ degree day and it never went above 200 and I was on it pretty hard for a good hour to get the tune changed for the new turbos.
I will try and post the pictures soon or build and F-Quick site to house all of the pictures.
Thanks,
Glenn
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The only thing I dont like is the WG position. I understand clearance, but it's less than optimal.
http://www.turbosmartonline.com/inde...ownload&id=201
http://www.turbosmartonline.com/inde...ownload&id=201
#55
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Cracker, I understand your point of view. I spoke with two different turbo fabricators out here and while it is not optimum, it works.
I have a feeling that is why I saw more boost than what the springs are rated at, plus the fact that the turbos are large for that setup.
After getting it all together I wanted to tear it apart and re-do it because I saw areas for improvement, but I wanted it to run so I coated everything and ran it.
I plan to build another system down the road when this one shows signs of wear or I come accross something major as I get the new motor in it.
Glenn
I have a feeling that is why I saw more boost than what the springs are rated at, plus the fact that the turbos are large for that setup.
After getting it all together I wanted to tear it apart and re-do it because I saw areas for improvement, but I wanted it to run so I coated everything and ran it.
I plan to build another system down the road when this one shows signs of wear or I come accross something major as I get the new motor in it.
Glenn