Supercharger vs. Turbo
#21
Yeah, sorry I meant 9.2:1 compression. If Magnuson made the new MP2300 roots blower for the f-bodies, that would probably be my favorite choice, but I don't think it will fit. I know the MP1200 Maggie can't hold a candle to the centrifugal Procharger in power making potential, but the torque and power under the curve is incredible. Not to mention that the sound that a roots blower makes is like music to my ears vs the screechy whining of the centrifugal setup. Since the centri makes more power up top, it would probably work great coming into a turn, winding into a lower gear and shooting the rpms up to power out of that turn. At the same time, however, a roots blower can keep that power and torque right on tap and make for more pull with less shifting. I need to decide exactly what I want before I order my new rear end so that I can go ahead and choose the right gear for my needs.
#24
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Since you're wanting quick power, and you're more interested in road course than drag racing....I'd advise a nice dual BB turbo (to reduce spool time) or a smaller twins setup...Since you're generally under rev while at a roadcourse you shouldn't have problems falling out of boost often anyways, and with either of those setups, if you DID fall out, it wouldn't take long to fix it.
I've had 3 superchargers, and I love em....but a turbo won't sling a belt, its always there just like a s/c, and adjusting the boost doesn't require a pulley swap...
-Will
I've had 3 superchargers, and I love em....but a turbo won't sling a belt, its always there just like a s/c, and adjusting the boost doesn't require a pulley swap...
-Will
#25
and the 03/04 cobra is also the old eaton design..
Why do you think the new ZR1 has a roots blower? its designed for scorching lap times
On a road course, i'll take smooth consistent and repeatable power every day of the week..
Last edited by DanO; 06-08-2008 at 06:18 PM.
#27
I am debating between a kenne bell 2.8 and a single turbo. Ihave an ls1/t56 rx7 with 4.10 gears and a 2500lb curb weight. Goal for it is to run as high of a trap speed as possible, and then work on bringing my ETs down more and more as I sort the suspension.
#28
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In all reality NA is where it is for road course, design the power band via cam around where you need to be for coming out of corners.
We had one car a customer decided to start road coursing that had big boost and meth with a centri blower. It works, but its not optimal, if it was then every proteam would have a poweradder as such.
Also the quick boost on boost off is going to give hell on the serp belt and stress the blower for sure, same with turbos.
From fueling perspective, the above car has basicly washed the rings out from the constant hosing of methanol, now i know this car has been beat on a few times a week for many weeks, but FI has no place in road racing.
We built a NA monster for the above customer and it should see a outing pretty soon to see where it should stand.
Check out the NA setup Katech did for a customer.
#29
#31
On magnacharger's website the 112 is 5.36 inches tall and the 2300 is 5.52 inches tall. The LM speed kit supplies .75" K member spacers for the 112 kit, so I am sure you could just toss in an extra washer and the 2300 should fit.
#32
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Doesn't MTI have kit for our cars?
I would think NA is best with centrifical being second although there are many turbo car that do pretty good in the types of racing you are talking about..turbo porches as one example.
The key is to not have a big laggy system. Smaller single or twins would likely work fine and they have some very good boost controllers out now like ams 500 or 1000, eboost 2 that can help you control the turbos. You can also play with ar on the turbo to give more low end or more top end,etc.
I think for max predictibility you should have maybe stayed NA for this type of thing.
But your compression is pretty low from that now.
I am personally trying to build a pretty all around car in my 99. I went to a 408 to get better off boost and quicker spool.I stayed with pretty mellow cam. I am going to think 3.54 rear gears and likely a 3400 stall in a 4l80e. I have some handling and braking mods and my car is not a 1/4 mile car at all. I don't do hard core road racing or autocross though its just a street car.
The twin screws do seem to have a great powerband these days but centrificals are also pretty predictable in the way they make power.
Oh well pick something and let us know how it works out.
I would think NA is best with centrifical being second although there are many turbo car that do pretty good in the types of racing you are talking about..turbo porches as one example.
The key is to not have a big laggy system. Smaller single or twins would likely work fine and they have some very good boost controllers out now like ams 500 or 1000, eboost 2 that can help you control the turbos. You can also play with ar on the turbo to give more low end or more top end,etc.
I think for max predictibility you should have maybe stayed NA for this type of thing.
But your compression is pretty low from that now.
I am personally trying to build a pretty all around car in my 99. I went to a 408 to get better off boost and quicker spool.I stayed with pretty mellow cam. I am going to think 3.54 rear gears and likely a 3400 stall in a 4l80e. I have some handling and braking mods and my car is not a 1/4 mile car at all. I don't do hard core road racing or autocross though its just a street car.
The twin screws do seem to have a great powerband these days but centrificals are also pretty predictable in the way they make power.
Oh well pick something and let us know how it works out.
#33
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the last hardcore road race car I saw was an old Porsche 911, slung way low to the ground, etc. Power output?
250hp.
from what I understand, you don't need big power to turn corners, you need big $$ suspension and frame. On the twisties its easy to have an engine that vastly overpowers the car its in or the driver that's handling it. Go NA like Bob suggested and forget about trying to manage boost vs blower/turbo stress in that kind of environment
250hp.
from what I understand, you don't need big power to turn corners, you need big $$ suspension and frame. On the twisties its easy to have an engine that vastly overpowers the car its in or the driver that's handling it. Go NA like Bob suggested and forget about trying to manage boost vs blower/turbo stress in that kind of environment
#34
go with either the new TVS blowers from eaton\harrop, or go with a twin screw kenne bell. Loads of power instantly, doesnt fall off up top, doesnt heat up and lose power like the older roots 112-122 blowers.
Do it, do it.... do it.
Do it, do it.... do it.