LSX is ready to be dropped in tomorrow (PICS!)
no problem man , just doing my homework 
give procharger a call and ask one of the techs for a 2" idler pulley with some deep walls . they should have them in stock.
give procharger a call and ask one of the techs for a 2" idler pulley with some deep walls . they should have them in stock.
FormerVendor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,540
Likes: 0
From: Hell AFB
Exactly!
Hey man, thanks for the link to that tensioner site, lot's of options there. I should be able to use one but all the pulleys look so narrow. If I could just find the right size pulley, I think I can actually rig up my own style tensioner simular to the one that comes on the 8 rib bracket. That exact pulley but wider, like 2" wide would work perfect.
Hey man, thanks for the link to that tensioner site, lot's of options there. I should be able to use one but all the pulleys look so narrow. If I could just find the right size pulley, I think I can actually rig up my own style tensioner simular to the one that comes on the 8 rib bracket. That exact pulley but wider, like 2" wide would work perfect.
Looks like a great setup, just make sure everything is spot on as far as alignment and proper setup, this isnt a toy any more
man that bracket looks good!
for the standoffs ( the thingys that space the bracket out) wht not use a thick pipe of the same length with an all thread going through it ?? it would look alot cleaner.
for the standoffs ( the thingys that space the bracket out) wht not use a thick pipe of the same length with an all thread going through it ?? it would look alot cleaner.
Also, if you use a 1/4 inch thick alum piece, I would attach it to the block, the motor plate, and attach it to the chassis. Weld a good thick beefy tab to the frame on the passenger's side,maybe even a U shaped one that goes around the whole drame rail, support the back wide with some triangles and attach the big thick alum plate that holds the blower to that.
I'd try to run a support piece underneath it to the front too to the radiator support area if there's anything strong enough there.
Get that thing on lockdown, it will only make things less painful down the road.
Awesome buildup, I love where you're going with this. Everyone is so "turbo" these days, it's nice to see someone doing something a little different. Even if it doesn't outrun all the turbo setups, it's gonna be unique
I'd try to run a support piece underneath it to the front too to the radiator support area if there's anything strong enough there.
Get that thing on lockdown, it will only make things less painful down the road.
Awesome buildup, I love where you're going with this. Everyone is so "turbo" these days, it's nice to see someone doing something a little different. Even if it doesn't outrun all the turbo setups, it's gonna be unique
Some great ideas there. I might need a little more support but as solid as it is now with wood, I think I might be ok once the bracket is made out of aluminum. No flimsy 1/4" stuff here either, this beastly piece of aluminum is 1/2" thick. That attatched to the frame on both sides, this blower isn't going anywhere. It never hurt's to go overboard though, so I'm going to see how solid it is with the aluminum and then add more if needed then. I really don't want to add any more weight because the sheet of aluminum is 50lbs, it's marine aluminum and supposed to be pretty damn strong. Hopefully when it's all cut down it will loose 20-30lbs.
I'm waiting to mount to the frame because I want the tranny installed so I can make sure the engine is sitting exactly how it will permenantly. Then I can mount the plates and the bracket to the frame and it should be solid, real solid.
...... if you don't have the tranny in there already , then you mught have to redo the bracket, cause as soon as you put the tranny in there and tighten everything up , the motor will want to sit a bit lower from the back side.
I already have the back of the engine jacked up to the aproximate location of where it will sit. The motor plates are solid on the block and once the rear of the engine is jacked up, the motor plates sit on the frame, so that's pretty much where it will go. If I did this with the engine just sagging, yeah, I'd be screwed, lol.
I just went out to measure, the pulley has a clearance of 2.5 inches = 63mm. So I will be using a 60mm belt, I just have to find a tensioner that wide. Do you know where to get these 60mm kevlar belts you speak of?
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Those threaded rod pars, I'd get some steel stock and have it cut/drilled and tapped to use rather then that for 2 reaosns, this way you can go thicker with them and they will be more effective because of the size of the footprint they will have on both mating surfaces, and they will look about 10 times better.
The 1/2 inch thick plate, if you wanted to be trick about it you could have the GM "lsx" logo cut into it, that would look sweet.
With your setup, before you make any final decisions you should look into having a radiator made, maybe ditch the stock waterpump, get a meziere radiator that has the elec pump right on the radiator rather then that pump, it would make your life with the belt about 10 times easier
The 1/2 inch thick plate, if you wanted to be trick about it you could have the GM "lsx" logo cut into it, that would look sweet.
With your setup, before you make any final decisions you should look into having a radiator made, maybe ditch the stock waterpump, get a meziere radiator that has the elec pump right on the radiator rather then that pump, it would make your life with the belt about 10 times easier
FormerVendor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,540
Likes: 0
From: Hell AFB
Check out Gates website, i believe the kevlar series is called the GT.
Those threaded rod pars, I'd get some steel stock and have it cut/drilled and tapped to use rather then that for 2 reaosns, this way you can go thicker with them and they will be more effective because of the size of the footprint they will have on both mating surfaces, and they will look about 10 times better.
The 1/2 inch thick plate, if you wanted to be trick about it you could have the GM "lsx" logo cut into it, that would look sweet.
With your setup, before you make any final decisions you should look into having a radiator made, maybe ditch the stock waterpump, get a meziere radiator that has the elec pump right on the radiator rather then that pump, it would make your life with the belt about 10 times easier
The 1/2 inch thick plate, if you wanted to be trick about it you could have the GM "lsx" logo cut into it, that would look sweet.
With your setup, before you make any final decisions you should look into having a radiator made, maybe ditch the stock waterpump, get a meziere radiator that has the elec pump right on the radiator rather then that pump, it would make your life with the belt about 10 times easier
Engraving the plate is a great idea, I had already thought about putting my name in it, lol. The LSX logo would look awesome.
I already ditched the stock waterpump and stock radiator, I have the meziere water pump and a Ron Davis radiator. What your talking about sounds really nice but I just don't have any extra funds and I'm trying to get this done with as little extra costs as possible. Considering I would have to ditch two very expensive aftermarket part's that I already have, I think I'm just going to try and make them work.
Sell them, you probably can recoup the $ you spent on them no problem.
The engraving could go right thru the plate, waterjet's can cut soem neat stuff
Trust me, look into that remove water pump, couple blocks with an fittings to run a hose to the pump and then back to the radiator will make your life so much easier it's not even funny.
Plus then you can have the radiator made to fit in the space youe have left after everything is done, it can be made to mount to the single piece of round tubing you'll run in place of the stock upper radiator support (which you need to box that in, but have the bar removable, for ease of engine removal later)
The engraving could go right thru the plate, waterjet's can cut soem neat stuff
Trust me, look into that remove water pump, couple blocks with an fittings to run a hose to the pump and then back to the radiator will make your life so much easier it's not even funny.
Plus then you can have the radiator made to fit in the space youe have left after everything is done, it can be made to mount to the single piece of round tubing you'll run in place of the stock upper radiator support (which you need to box that in, but have the bar removable, for ease of engine removal later)
Also, if you use a 1/4 inch thick alum piece, I would attach it to the block, the motor plate, and attach it to the chassis. Weld a good thick beefy tab to the frame on the passenger's side,maybe even a U shaped one that goes around the whole drame rail, support the back wide with some triangles and attach the big thick alum plate that holds the blower to that.
I'd try to run a support piece underneath it to the front too to the radiator support area if there's anything strong enough there.
Get that thing on lockdown, it will only make things less painful down the road.
Awesome buildup, I love where you're going with this. Everyone is so "turbo" these days, it's nice to see someone doing something a little different. Even if it doesn't outrun all the turbo setups, it's gonna be unique
I'd try to run a support piece underneath it to the front too to the radiator support area if there's anything strong enough there.
Get that thing on lockdown, it will only make things less painful down the road.
Awesome buildup, I love where you're going with this. Everyone is so "turbo" these days, it's nice to see someone doing something a little different. Even if it doesn't outrun all the turbo setups, it's gonna be unique
I cant agree more. The Bracket needs to be mounted the body of the car just like the motor plate and mounted the motor with the fours threaded rods yu have now. I know before when i had JUST a D1-SC and was trying to push it the bracket would flex (I had a steal bracket not the ALUM) I had the 8 rib spring tensioned setup KP has and it has another support that secures the head unit and mounts to it and secure it as another arm to the motor.
Over Kill LOL
Look at Bradys pic's.
Kyle
I wish I had a few more pieces of equipment at my disposal, if I did, something like this would be getting done to my own car.
I just don't have the tools to do it. Sucks, because I love making stuff and love to make things work that were never meant to.
I'd personally do a F3, just because noone's done it Little short radiator, mount the blower to the chassis solid and square, then the motor. Remote water pump so it's not in the way, and an air to water unit the size of R2 D2 in the passenger's seat
I just don't have the tools to do it. Sucks, because I love making stuff and love to make things work that were never meant to.
I'd personally do a F3, just because noone's done it Little short radiator, mount the blower to the chassis solid and square, then the motor. Remote water pump so it's not in the way, and an air to water unit the size of R2 D2 in the passenger's seat
I wish I had a few more pieces of equipment at my disposal, if I did, something like this would be getting done to my own car.
I just don't have the tools to do it. Sucks, because I love making stuff and love to make things work that were never meant to.
I'd personally do a F3, just because noone's done it Little short radiator, mount the blower to the chassis solid and square, then the motor. Remote water pump so it's not in the way, and an air to water unit the size of R2 D2 in the passenger's seat
I just don't have the tools to do it. Sucks, because I love making stuff and love to make things work that were never meant to.
I'd personally do a F3, just because noone's done it Little short radiator, mount the blower to the chassis solid and square, then the motor. Remote water pump so it's not in the way, and an air to water unit the size of R2 D2 in the passenger's seat
I'm trying to make this work with what I have.Anyway, I've never seen anything like this before even with the F2?
The bracket I made up is attatched to the frame and is only in the begining stages of getting the F2 mounted where I want it. I'm not going to just start it up the way it is. I still have a few tricks up my sleeve but this is a step by step process to get to the final outcome. Once I'm ready to start it, if the design still looks week, then you guys can jump all over it but for now I'm just sharing my progress and listening to helpful ideas that are posted.
I have seen a setup similar to what you're doing in a fox body. THe guy had the blower sandwiched between 2 1/4 inch plates, he had it bolted on bu teh mounting holes like you do but he had the inlet also supported by a big 1/4 inch plate as well, the plate was a very precision machined piece that mated around the outside of the inlet to give the blower added support, so it was explained to me.
The car was running a large cogged belt like you are, had a motor plate also made from 1/4 inch alum if I remember correctly, and all 3 were attached together via the large diameter (one inch if I remember right, with 3/4 inch bolts) steel standoff's that had threaded rod in the ends of them to make them like bolts to keep everything together.
I remember there being several of them, and there was large heavy duty mounting tabs that were built with triangle pieces on the back side to support the alum plates. It didn't span the whole width of the engine bay, the motor plate did but the other plate did not.
He had to do a remove water pump like I described to have room for the belt and tensioner and idler pulley, which I remember was a very heavy duty looking pieces. There was a tensioner pulley up near the blower that kept the belt tight, and there was a smooth idler pulley with real tall outer ribs mounted down by the crank pulley that kept the belt centered on the bottom 1/2 of the belt. Also helped to rout the belt away form the water pump lines.
Car had a mandrel on the pulley with a vacum pump on it as well. Engine bay probably had 100 lbs of alum plates in it, wild looking, and it looked like a real bear to change the belt, when it needed it.
I wasn't trying to knock your project, it's awesome and I love these things. I someday would like to attampt something of this type. Until then I'm stuck with my 9 second nitrous car.
The car was running a large cogged belt like you are, had a motor plate also made from 1/4 inch alum if I remember correctly, and all 3 were attached together via the large diameter (one inch if I remember right, with 3/4 inch bolts) steel standoff's that had threaded rod in the ends of them to make them like bolts to keep everything together.
I remember there being several of them, and there was large heavy duty mounting tabs that were built with triangle pieces on the back side to support the alum plates. It didn't span the whole width of the engine bay, the motor plate did but the other plate did not.
He had to do a remove water pump like I described to have room for the belt and tensioner and idler pulley, which I remember was a very heavy duty looking pieces. There was a tensioner pulley up near the blower that kept the belt tight, and there was a smooth idler pulley with real tall outer ribs mounted down by the crank pulley that kept the belt centered on the bottom 1/2 of the belt. Also helped to rout the belt away form the water pump lines.
Car had a mandrel on the pulley with a vacum pump on it as well. Engine bay probably had 100 lbs of alum plates in it, wild looking, and it looked like a real bear to change the belt, when it needed it.
I wasn't trying to knock your project, it's awesome and I love these things. I someday would like to attampt something of this type. Until then I'm stuck with my 9 second nitrous car.