seems like there would be more room down there to move it forward a bit more? Maybe not... I dunno. 
LSX is ready to be dropped in tomorrow (PICS!)
If you search you will find the info you want. I found several threads that a couple different members have phoned ARP themselves and asked them. I just can't remember 100%. I do rememeber it being b/w 220-240 or so. They also talked about appying some kind of arp 'special juice' to the threads as well. Search is your friend. I can tell you that I used mine to fully seat my pulley and never even hit 200lb and it was a bitch to back it off.
Just got off the phone with arp tech line. 235ft/lbs with arp lube, no lock tight. Out of everything I've read on here, none of them were right, lol. There it is for the next person searching. They just have to read through 9 pages of my build to find it, lol.
The weird thing is, when I asked about lock tight, he said lube or lock tight? That doesn't make sence to me but he said lube before I asked so that's what I'll use.
Now the question is, if I called again and got someone else would they tell me the same thing? LOL, oh well, that's what I'm going with.
The weird thing is, when I asked about lock tight, he said lube or lock tight? That doesn't make sence to me but he said lube before I asked so that's what I'll use.
Now the question is, if I called again and got someone else would they tell me the same thing? LOL, oh well, that's what I'm going with.
And I thought it was going to be easy, lol
Well the bracket design is coming along pretty good. I think it's going to be possible but I will not be able to run a air filter. I'll have to rig up a screen type filter that will just go over the inlet. I guess that's pretty common for race aplications anyway, it sure won't be restricted. Anyway, the biggest problem is the pulleys don't line up right now. I'm going to have to move the radiator up another 2-3 inches
Here's a couple progress pics. Remember, when I get the final bracket design it will be layed out nicely on the aluminum and machined to look good, not all hacked up, lol, like this wood prototype.
Well the bracket design is coming along pretty good. I think it's going to be possible but I will not be able to run a air filter. I'll have to rig up a screen type filter that will just go over the inlet. I guess that's pretty common for race aplications anyway, it sure won't be restricted. Anyway, the biggest problem is the pulleys don't line up right now. I'm going to have to move the radiator up another 2-3 inches
Here's a couple progress pics. Remember, when I get the final bracket design it will be layed out nicely on the aluminum and machined to look good, not all hacked up, lol, like this wood prototype.
Just got off the phone with arp tech line. 235ft/lbs with arp lube, no lock tight. Out of everything I've read on here, none of them were right, lol. There it is for the next person searching. They just have to read through 9 pages of my build to find it, lol.
The weird thing is, when I asked about lock tight, he said lube or lock tight? That doesn't make sence to me but he said lube before I asked so that's what I'll use.
Now the question is, if I called again and got someone else would they tell me the same thing? LOL, oh well, that's what I'm going with.
The weird thing is, when I asked about lock tight, he said lube or lock tight? That doesn't make sence to me but he said lube before I asked so that's what I'll use.
Now the question is, if I called again and got someone else would they tell me the same thing? LOL, oh well, that's what I'm going with.
It might have a touch more room down low but I want this thing to be seen. That's why I chose to mount it up there, it's polished and oh so pretty. Since I'm making my own bracket anyway, I figure I'm going to mount it where I want it.
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Verdad Gallardo Holy ****! This is really going to work! It's mounted where it's staying now. I have room for about a 2" belt, it clears the hood and I'm in the process of moving the radiator up a couple more inches. I'm so excited I got it to fit, I don't even know what else to say. Here is how it will be mounted, of course I will be adding more cross bars to make sure it is solid.
ou may, want to look into a different radiator, one that is thicker but a good bit narrower, so that you can offset it to the right. That may help your cause a whole bunch.
I'd get thet thing mounted up where you need it, maybe even foreward a touch more so you can run a full 3 inch wide belt on it, and once you have it mounted where it will work and have your charge piping done, get a radiator made afterwards. PITA I know, but you probably can have a radiator made that is a good bit thicker and much more narrow that will do the cooling job and fit in the space you have left when you are done.
That's good that the inlet lines up with the hood too like that.
I'd get thet thing mounted up where you need it, maybe even foreward a touch more so you can run a full 3 inch wide belt on it, and once you have it mounted where it will work and have your charge piping done, get a radiator made afterwards. PITA I know, but you probably can have a radiator made that is a good bit thicker and much more narrow that will do the cooling job and fit in the space you have left when you are done.
That's good that the inlet lines up with the hood too like that.
Also, if you use a 1/4 inch thick alum piece, I would attach it to the block, the motor plate, and attach it to the chassis. Weld a good thick beefy tab to the frame on the passenger's side,maybe even a U shaped one that goes around the whole drame rail, support the back wide with some triangles and attach the big thick alum plate that holds the blower to that.
I'd try to run a support piece underneath it to the front too to the radiator support area if there's anything strong enough there.
Get that thing on lockdown, it will only make things less painful down the road.
Awesome buildup, I love where you're going with this. Everyone is so "turbo" these days, it's nice to see someone doing something a little different. Even if it doesn't outrun all the turbo setups, it's gonna be unique
I'd try to run a support piece underneath it to the front too to the radiator support area if there's anything strong enough there.
Get that thing on lockdown, it will only make things less painful down the road.
Awesome buildup, I love where you're going with this. Everyone is so "turbo" these days, it's nice to see someone doing something a little different. Even if it doesn't outrun all the turbo setups, it's gonna be unique
SAWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!!!! i can't belive the hood actually fits !
thanks for giving me an idea for how to mount my blower on the stang
thanks for giving me an idea for how to mount my blower on the stang
Last edited by 1dirtyZ; Jun 22, 2008 at 03:28 AM.
8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
iTrader: (50)
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 4,092
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From: Savannah, GA
Looks awesome where it is now! 
I only have one question- whats to stop the belt from 'walking' out towards the front and then getting caught up on the bracket? That would suck!
I only have one question- whats to stop the belt from 'walking' out towards the front and then getting caught up on the bracket? That would suck! 
Hey man, thanks for the link to that tensioner site, lot's of options there. I should be able to use one but all the pulleys look so narrow. If I could just find the right size pulley, I think I can actually rig up my own style tensioner simular to the one that comes on the 8 rib bracket. That exact pulley but wider, like 2" wide would work perfect.
The template is just about finished. I still need a tensioner, a hole for the other radiator hose and I may take a little more material out, like slots in the blank areas. But the main foundation is down and fit's. I'm going to need to mount the tensioner right next to the water pump which will serve 3 purposes. One is to tension the belt obviously, two is to keep the belt in line with a large lip so the belt doesn't shift around and three to move the belt over enough to clear the water pump. Here's where I'm at so far.
