LSX is ready to be dropped in tomorrow (PICS!)
09-24-2008, 04:12 PM
#763
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Does anyone know the answer to my previous question? When using an advanced timed cam, do you need to clock the timing chain in the opposite degree to keep everything hunky dory?
09-24-2008, 05:15 PM
#764
Ground-in advance (as in on the cam) does not need to be compensated for if I understand your question correctly. You can put additional advance or retard with an adj timing set. Alot of times (i'm told) the cam may be off from the card that you get with it. This is checked by degreeing the cam and can be adjusted with the timing set.
09-24-2008, 09:35 PM
#766
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As cobrakiller said, the cam is ground the way it is to be installed, just that, the way it is. You use the timing chain to add more or subtract but that's not the best way. It's better to just get a cam ground the way you want it from the start. When a cam has ground in advance, the purpose of that was to run it that way. Now since my clearances are tight with this cam to begin with, a tooth off on the chain could be causing my problems, that's why I'm going to check the timming chain but the cam may just have too much duration for my set-up. It sucks because I really wanted to try a nice big cam with this F2. I know most think that a big cam is not necessary with boost but I like the sound of a big cam on boost and my experience from my old set-up is they make killer power too.
09-24-2008, 09:48 PM
#767
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Since I didn't purchase the block from them or have them assemble it, I feel kind of bad asking them for help. I got most of the parts online so I'm kind of stuck doing it myself unless I want to dish out a bunch more money that I don't have.
Another thing I noticed that I thought was kind of odd, on both sides of the block, with each piston they hit noticably more. The two pistons to the front of the block barley got touched and then as you go back each piston got hit a little worse. The two pistons at the back are the worst, but still not that bad. The pic I posted is the second to last on the drivers side and it is about the same as the farthest back but the rear piston does have a slightly larger mark. Then the first piston didn't even get touched in the center and just a little nick on the outside. I'm not sure if this matters but I would have thought they would all hit the same.
Since I didn't purchase the block from them or have them assemble it, I feel kind of bad asking them for help. I got most of the parts online so I'm kind of stuck doing it myself unless I want to dish out a bunch more money that I don't have.
Another thing I noticed that I thought was kind of odd, on both sides of the block, with each piston they hit noticably more. The two pistons to the front of the block barley got touched and then as you go back each piston got hit a little worse. The two pistons at the back are the worst, but still not that bad. The pic I posted is the second to last on the drivers side and it is about the same as the farthest back but the rear piston does have a slightly larger mark. Then the first piston didn't even get touched in the center and just a little nick on the outside. I'm not sure if this matters but I would have thought they would all hit the same.
Was this block square decked? From what you are describing it sounds like the block decks are not squared. It could be in the heads but not likely. Take a magnetic base indicator and check the deck clearance (piston top to block deck) for each hole while the heads are off. Be interesting to see where you are off. Rod length, crank stroke, and CD of the piston are all also possibilities but not likely from what you are describing. Seems too consistent to be anything other than the block. If someone decked it they may have had the set-up incorrect, it is actually easy to do.
09-25-2008, 01:57 PM
#769
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Was this block square decked? From what you are describing it sounds like the block decks are not squared. It could be in the heads but not likely. Take a magnetic base indicator and check the deck clearance (piston top to block deck) for each hole while the heads are off. Be interesting to see where you are off. Rod length, crank stroke, and CD of the piston are all also possibilities but not likely from what you are describing. Seems too consistent to be anything other than the block. If someone decked it they may have had the set-up incorrect, it is actually easy to do.
09-25-2008, 02:51 PM
#771
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I may just take the whole engine back to him once I have a set of heads, give all to him and say make it work. Then he can do whatever needs to be done with the pistons, make sure the deck is good, check for clearances and make sure it's building compression. Then I can take it back home, install it, slap on the blower set-up and drive it to the speed shop for tuning.
09-25-2008, 04:41 PM
#772
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I don't think my engine builder did anything with the deck but I'm not sure. I never had an engine built before but he was suposed to give it back to me ready to install. It cost $1500 and I supplied all the parts so I would hope he did everything that needed to be done.
09-25-2008, 08:55 PM
#773
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Here's the list of what I got charged for:
balance
ck pistons/rods pin fit rods
hone w/plate
clearance block for stroke
micropolish crank
mockup for deck & stroke
wash all parts for final assembly
install cam bearings
assemble short
machine piston for clearance
=$1565.80 in labor
09-26-2008, 06:52 AM
#775
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No not yet. The clearanced piston has nothing to do with the valves, it was one that had somekind of clearance issue internaly, it was just a $20 extra. As far as I know, my problems have nothing to do with my engine build, just a bad set of heads and possibly cam install error on my part. I have to dig into it a little further when I get a chance to see if I can figure out why I had clearance issues. So far it looks like the heads are the main problem and the engine builder never saw them, he only did the bottom end for me and put in the cam, I did the timing chain and everything else.
09-26-2008, 08:14 AM
#777
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Can you tell by my list if my deck should be good or at least checked, he listed "mockup for deck & stroke" but I'm not sure what all was done or even what should have been done. If my block isn't right, I'm going to be really pissed as if I'm not pissed already.
09-26-2008, 08:30 AM
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Was this block square decked? From what you are describing it sounds like the block decks are not squared. It could be in the heads but not likely. Take a magnetic base indicator and check the deck clearance (piston top to block deck) for each hole while the heads are off. Be interesting to see where you are off. Rod length, crank stroke, and CD of the piston are all also possibilities but not likely from what you are describing. Seems too consistent to be anything other than the block. If someone decked it they may have had the set-up incorrect, it is actually easy to do.
Thanks.
09-26-2008, 09:03 AM
#780
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Do I just magnatize it to the block and set it to where the piston comes up and it will measure how far out of the hole the pistons are coming up?