LSX is ready to be dropped in tomorrow (PICS!)
Thanks again everybody. I can't believe how may of you guys stuck it out with me following my whole build, it's pretty cool to be able to share it with all of you because I don't have many friends that are into cars so when I try to explain it to them they don't have a clue what I'm talking about lol. I really can't wait to get you guys some dyno numbers and even more important track times. I wonder how long I'll get away with running with only a bolt in cage.
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Hopefully next year. But thanks for the comps.Numbers won't be for a while, I'll have a better vid soon though. I'm just waiting on the last couple fittings to finish up my remote water pump set-up.
Well I've about had it! I can't get the stupid thing to run. It starts a little and then dies. Then starts a little then dies then just nothing or back fires. I don't get it. It seems like when I give it gas it dies instantly and that also seems to cause the backfires. Here's about how it goes:
On a good note, all the water plumbing is done and everything seems to be working except it wont start. Here's some pics of the close to finished project, still needs quite a bit of cleaning. I tried to get some shots to show the coolant system but it's pretty hard to see. Then one just to show how close the F2 is to the hood.
If anyone has any ideas on the start issues, please share. I'm pretty frustrated and don't really even know what to do.
On a good note, all the water plumbing is done and everything seems to be working except it wont start. Here's some pics of the close to finished project, still needs quite a bit of cleaning. I tried to get some shots to show the coolant system but it's pretty hard to see. Then one just to show how close the F2 is to the hood.
If anyone has any ideas on the start issues, please share. I'm pretty frustrated and don't really even know what to do.
8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
iTrader: (50)
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 4,092
Likes: 2
From: Savannah, GA
Man.. i hope it doesnt have anything to do with your computer or wiring after that fire incodent.. but u said everything checked out, so it cant be that... 
may be totally off the wall here, but will it start without the belt on the blower? just wondering...
may be totally off the wall here, but will it start without the belt on the blower? just wondering...
It sounds just like the problem I was just having with my 3 bar sensor. Listen to this video and tell me if this is how you feel yours is like
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpUbawCDvDQ
It ended up being that the 3 bar was not working correctly
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpUbawCDvDQ
It ended up being that the 3 bar was not working correctly
another similar issue that I had after running for just a short amount of time, (with my D1SC), I had to change the plugs and it fired right up! Have you adjusted your tune for a specific map sensor yet? What MAP are you running? Do you have a way to Log your car?
I think it would have a worse chance of starting without the blower. When I had my cam only car I would always have to play with the gas to get it running and once I added the D1, it would start right up because the blower was pushing a little more air in.
It sounds just like the problem I was just having with my 3 bar sensor. Listen to this video and tell me if this is how you feel yours is like
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpUbawCDvDQ
It ended up being that the 3 bar was not working correctly
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpUbawCDvDQ
It ended up being that the 3 bar was not working correctly
Either way, your two ideas are actually my two first concerns. I was thinking maybe my 3 bar map sensor got some **** thrown up in it when my engine blew before, there was a ton of **** in the intake, oil, coolant and chunks of metal. Some of that might of got in there and I was going to swap it out before but it turned out to be a different issue, now that this is happening it's back on the top of the list. I may go buy one and just try it out.
The spark plugs were my second concern. I went from tr6 to tr10. the tr10s are new but I have heard they idle like crap and I do have a pretty big cam in it. They are cheap enough to just throw a set of tr6s in to see if it will run.
The tune should still be good enough to run, I'm on the same fuel system and the same 3 bar set-up. The cubes are bigger and the cam is bigger but just to get it running my tuner said he wouldn't even make any changes. Obviously once on the dyno there will be fine tuning but he said to get it running and be able to drive it to the shop, it should be fine just the way it is.
Nothing got hurt with the fire, it was a direct connection to the battery. I do however think it is electrical related.
I think it would have a worse chance of starting without the blower. When I had my cam only car I would always have to play with the gas to get it running and once I added the D1, it would start right up because the blower was pushing a little more air in.
Your vid is close but not quite the same. Yours tries to start each time and dies quickly. Mine will actually start, rough but it does start, then it chugs a few times and dies. If I give it gas, it dies right away. First or second try is always the best, starts running and then every try after that it seems to get worse where it doesn't even try at all or it even starts popping/backfiring. With yours it sounds like it starts every time but dies almost instantly after it starts.
Either way, your two ideas are actually my two first concerns. I was thinking maybe my 3 bar map sensor got some **** thrown up in it when my engine blew before, there was a ton of **** in the intake, oil, coolant and chunks of metal. Some of that might of got in there and I was going to swap it out before but it turned out to be a different issue, now that this is happening it's back on the top of the list. I may go buy one and just try it out.
The spark plugs were my second concern. I went from tr6 to tr10. the tr10s are new but I have heard they idle like crap and I do have a pretty big cam in it. They are cheap enough to just throw a set of tr6s in to see if it will run.
The tune should still be good enough to run, I'm on the same fuel system and the same 3 bar set-up. The cubes are bigger and the cam is bigger but just to get it running my tuner said he wouldn't even make any changes. Obviously once on the dyno there will be fine tuning but he said to get it running and be able to drive it to the shop, it should be fine just the way it is.
I think it would have a worse chance of starting without the blower. When I had my cam only car I would always have to play with the gas to get it running and once I added the D1, it would start right up because the blower was pushing a little more air in.
Your vid is close but not quite the same. Yours tries to start each time and dies quickly. Mine will actually start, rough but it does start, then it chugs a few times and dies. If I give it gas, it dies right away. First or second try is always the best, starts running and then every try after that it seems to get worse where it doesn't even try at all or it even starts popping/backfiring. With yours it sounds like it starts every time but dies almost instantly after it starts.
Either way, your two ideas are actually my two first concerns. I was thinking maybe my 3 bar map sensor got some **** thrown up in it when my engine blew before, there was a ton of **** in the intake, oil, coolant and chunks of metal. Some of that might of got in there and I was going to swap it out before but it turned out to be a different issue, now that this is happening it's back on the top of the list. I may go buy one and just try it out.
The spark plugs were my second concern. I went from tr6 to tr10. the tr10s are new but I have heard they idle like crap and I do have a pretty big cam in it. They are cheap enough to just throw a set of tr6s in to see if it will run.
The tune should still be good enough to run, I'm on the same fuel system and the same 3 bar set-up. The cubes are bigger and the cam is bigger but just to get it running my tuner said he wouldn't even make any changes. Obviously once on the dyno there will be fine tuning but he said to get it running and be able to drive it to the shop, it should be fine just the way it is.
__________________
95 Pontiac Formula- Stock engine with ATI Procharger, Moser 12 bolt w/4:30 gears, Rossler trans, Neil Chance 4000 stall, M/T ET streets, 10.914@ 121.90mph, 1.452 60ft. GMHTP November 2010 Feature Car. Check it out at:
https://www.motortrend.com/features/...ebird-formula/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abZ1z...ature=youtu.be
95 Pontiac Formula- Stock engine with ATI Procharger, Moser 12 bolt w/4:30 gears, Rossler trans, Neil Chance 4000 stall, M/T ET streets, 10.914@ 121.90mph, 1.452 60ft. GMHTP November 2010 Feature Car. Check it out at:
https://www.motortrend.com/features/...ebird-formula/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abZ1z...ature=youtu.be
It needs a good tune job! Check your plugs! Getting the car to start should be the easy part if it's all together right. It's either air, gas, or spark. DUH!!! lol - i kid i kid!!!
Good luck!
Good luck!