LSX is ready to be dropped in tomorrow (PICS!)
#981
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Hope you get it worked out and hope it's just the plugs causing it. Just food for thought though on your tune, the only variable thats the same on your new setup is the fuel system. Motor, blower, cam, intake, tranny, etc is all different, it could still be the tune especially an SD tune made for your last setup with no MAF to adjust anything. Do you have data logging software to see whats going on?
I did have hp tuners at one point but was scared to change anything so I sold it and leave the tuning up to someone that knows what they are doing. So to answer your question, no, I have no way to data log.
#983
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I won't argue with a tuner like speed inc, I don't know enough about it. Data logger will tell you though whats going on, see if someone by you can help out. I know when I went to the TRex on my old stuff from a smaller cam, the car started fine the first time, then didn't run for **** from then on without a tune, but did start, and that was just a cam swap. Maybe it's just your plugs, hopefully something simple. Just get those rings sealed and quit washing the cylinders .
#984
is your regulator boost referenced? how many lbs you plan on running? have your regulator set for 60psi max and at full boost and subtract the boost you plan on running from 60 so that your running alot lower at idle. example 15lbs of boost at 60psi fuel= 45psi at idle.
#985
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Well the new plugs and wires didn't do ****. I wish I new someone around me that had something to log it. I'm not going to be able to have it towed to the shop this year so I guess it's time to call it quits until the spring. I'll throw a new map sensor on it to check but I doubt it's that because it has run for a short period of time already. If the map doesn't work then it's time for a break until I can get some tuning
#986
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is your regulator boost referenced? how many lbs you plan on running? have your regulator set for 60psi max and at full boost and subtract the boost you plan on running from 60 so that your running alot lower at idle. example 15lbs of boost at 60psi fuel= 45psi at idle.
#987
Could it still be the map sensor? You could check the voltage coming out of the 3 bar map sensor it should be about 1 bar or 100kpa with the key on engine not running. So .1 volts is 0kpa and 4.9volts is 300kpa or so. If my math is right 1.6 volts is 100kpa or 1bar. It should be close to that. Also when i did my IAT relocate I did not have it pluged in all the way and it defaults to -30* so my truck was pig rich from the IAT adder tables in the tune.
Last edited by MFIC; 11-15-2008 at 10:49 AM.
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Could it still be the map sensor? You could check the voltage coming out of the 3 bar map sensor it should be about 1 bar or 100kpa with the key on engine not running. So .1 volts is 0kpa and 4.9volts is 300kpa or so. If my math is right 1.6 volts is 100kpa or 1bar. It should be close to that. Also when i did my IAT relocate I did not have it pluged in all the way and it defaults to -30* so my truck was pig rich from the IAT adder tables in the tune.
What does ECT stand for?
#991
#994
not to hijack, but mine hasnt been pluged in for a year, and im just no recently having serious fuel issues with my car and wonder if this is it.
#995
I am not 100% sure here, but bear with me. You just built this setup and you have changed just about everything from your old setup. If you had HPT or EFI live you can find a table called Predicted MAP Max...in that table you have rows for RPM and Columns for MAP kpa....My car like yours is supercharged and got a hellatious amount of extra airflow at idle when I first put it on and this freaked those values in my tune. Basically it had more kpa at idle than the computer could calculate for and it would just run for a second and then die...no codes just die. Then I would try and start it again and it would do just like your car does now. Also, did you change your map from what you previously had on your car from before the build, because if you went from a 1 bar to a 2 or even a 3 then the value they are going to show when your car does try to crank is eith going to be half of what it should be if it is a 2 bar or 1/3 if it is a 3 bar. Good luck and may the force be with you.