LSX is ready to be dropped in tomorrow (PICS!)
I don't know how the tuning stuff works but they said he may not of been able to tell on the dyno? That's why I sold hptuners, too complicated for me lol.
I'll make sure to get a print out this last pull so we can look at the curve. From what I understand it went to like 500rwhp instantly and then only gained another 100 all the way up the rpm range. I didn't see the curve but I would think with the blower increasing boost with rpm it should have increased a lot after the initial power.
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From: Here and sometimes there too.
He should be able to read A/F ratio with the dyno sensor they stick out the tailpipe at least. If it was showing rich on 7 cylinders +1 dumping fuel in the exhaust and he was leaning it out it could of gotten ugly.
But HPtuners has a window that will show if all 8 cylinders are firing.
But HPtuners has a window that will show if all 8 cylinders are firing.
I've been doing some research on the th400/converter thing with boost set-ups and I'm starting to think my numbers might not be that off. It might have been on all 8 cylinders and it's just not dynoing good because the th400 and loose converter. I just found multiple threads about guys who are only putting down in the 500s and running track times like a car that puts down in the 700s. One guy said it only dynoed 540rwhp but trapped in the 140s. One guy had in the 800s with a six speed but dropped to 560rwhp just by swapping to the th400 but went faster at the track. Another guy only dynoed a little over 500 but ran 10.0. It sounds like you can't trust the dyno with a th400 car. One guy even mentioned you can't dyno with a no lock-up converter because it will just blow through it on the dyno even though it may not on the street/track. So I may even just be blowing through the converter on the dyno but on the street/track it might be ok. Great, that means I'm going to have to go to the track at least once before I sell or part out
I'm still going to have them throw it on the dyno one more time just to be safe and make sure I was on all 8 cylinders but I'm not going to get down about the low dyno #s until I see how it feels. I wonder what rpm I'll be safe up to. There is no way I could make a full pass with the injectors getting maxed but I wonder if I can get away with just shifting a little earlier like 5800rpms just to play with it a little. I'll have to ask my tuner what he thinks it's safe to go up to.
I'm still going to have them throw it on the dyno one more time just to be safe and make sure I was on all 8 cylinders but I'm not going to get down about the low dyno #s until I see how it feels. I wonder what rpm I'll be safe up to. There is no way I could make a full pass with the injectors getting maxed but I wonder if I can get away with just shifting a little earlier like 5800rpms just to play with it a little. I'll have to ask my tuner what he thinks it's safe to go up to. Is that the same converter from your previous setup? Has someone got on it on the street that has driven a fast car before? My butt meter is accurate to about a half second in the 1/4.
I've been doing some research on the th400/converter thing with boost set-ups and I'm starting to think my numbers might not be that off. It might have been on all 8 cylinders and it's just not dynoing good because the th400 and loose converter. I just found multiple threads about guys who are only putting down in the 500s and running track times like a car that puts down in the 700s. One guy said it only dynoed 540rwhp but trapped in the 140s. One guy had in the 800s with a six speed but dropped to 560rwhp just by swapping to the th400 but went faster at the track. Another guy only dynoed a little over 500 but ran 10.0. It sounds like you can't trust the dyno with a th400 car. One guy even mentioned you can't dyno with a no lock-up converter because it will just blow through it on the dyno even though it may not on the street/track. So I may even just be blowing through the converter on the dyno but on the street/track it might be ok. Great, that means I'm going to have to go to the track at least once before I sell or part out I'm still going to have them throw it on the dyno one more time just to be safe and make sure I was on all 8 cylinders but I'm not going to get down about the low dyno #s until I see how it feels. I wonder what rpm I'll be safe up to. There is no way I could make a full pass with the injectors getting maxed but I wonder if I can get away with just shifting a little earlier like 5800rpms just to play with it a little. I'll have to ask my tuner what he thinks it's safe to go up to.
I'm still going to have them throw it on the dyno one more time just to be safe and make sure I was on all 8 cylinders but I'm not going to get down about the low dyno #s until I see how it feels. I wonder what rpm I'll be safe up to. There is no way I could make a full pass with the injectors getting maxed but I wonder if I can get away with just shifting a little earlier like 5800rpms just to play with it a little. I'll have to ask my tuner what he thinks it's safe to go up to.I would think the guys knew if the car was running on 7 cylinders on a dyno pull, its fairly obvious if you have a dead hole, and even more obvious when you are driving the car at low speed.
Only thing is thats an exceptional amount of boost to be throwing at the engine and not making a lot of power, there may other things invlolved but trying to diagnose on the internet is pretty tough. Not to mention the blower is probably taking 50-100hp more to drive than a D1SC..
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Verdad Gallardo Nobodys hit it on the street so I'm pretty excited to drive it home and see what it feels like. It was running low 10s before so I should be able to feel how it's doing, only problem is it will feel fast no matter what because I havn't felt the power in 2 years.
Thats why I pay no attention to dyno numbers, its a fun thing to post but with high stall autos its pretty meaningless. I have a very efficient converter in mine and it will dyno well considering its a 4500+ stall, I also have another converter that runs almost as well at the track, within .2 and 2mph that dynos 100hp less.
I would think the guys knew if the car was running on 7 cylinders on a dyno pull, its fairly obvious if you have a dead hole, and even more obvious when you are driving the car at low speed.
Only thing is thats an exceptional amount of boost to be throwing at the engine and not making a lot of power, there may other things invlolved but trying to diagnose on the internet is pretty tough. Not to mention the blower is probably taking 50-100hp more to drive than a D1SC..
I would think the guys knew if the car was running on 7 cylinders on a dyno pull, its fairly obvious if you have a dead hole, and even more obvious when you are driving the car at low speed.
Only thing is thats an exceptional amount of boost to be throwing at the engine and not making a lot of power, there may other things invlolved but trying to diagnose on the internet is pretty tough. Not to mention the blower is probably taking 50-100hp more to drive than a D1SC..
one other thing I thought maybe was the valves are floating with all that boost. I'll post up the dyno so you guys can see what you think.
Specifications:
Install Height: 1.820
Max. Valve Spring Lift: .690
Spring Pressure Closed: 150lbs
Spring Pressure Open: 382@.620 / 410@.680
Coil Bind: 1.100
Retainer Material: Titanium
Kit includes:
Livernois Motorsports Chrome Dual Valve Springs (16)
Livernois Motorsports Titanium Retainers (16)
Livernois Motorsports ID Valve Spring Locators (16)
Super 7 Locks (32)
Rubber Valve Seals (16)
No shims installed out of the box.
Cam is 246/250 .632/.635 on a 112+4
Install Height: 1.820
Max. Valve Spring Lift: .690
Spring Pressure Closed: 150lbs
Spring Pressure Open: 382@.620 / 410@.680
Coil Bind: 1.100
Retainer Material: Titanium
Kit includes:
Livernois Motorsports Chrome Dual Valve Springs (16)
Livernois Motorsports Titanium Retainers (16)
Livernois Motorsports ID Valve Spring Locators (16)
Super 7 Locks (32)
Rubber Valve Seals (16)
No shims installed out of the box.
Cam is 246/250 .632/.635 on a 112+4
Great build man and I'm sure you'll get everything sorted out. I read the first 30 pages and skipped the rest, lol. Low or high impedance injectors? I'd be surprised if your 80's are maxed. My low impedance 75's with an acceleronics driver are well within their limits making 770RWHP with a D1 (A4, 12 bolt, 17x12 wheels). However, if the car is making boost, which clearly it is, you may just have huge drivetrain loss. What was your A/F, which fuel and what timing?
Great build man and I'm sure you'll get everything sorted out. I read the first 30 pages and skipped the rest, lol. Low or high impedance injectors? I'd be surprised if your 80's are maxed. My low impedance 75's with an acceleronics driver are well within their limits making 770RWHP with a D1 (A4, 12 bolt, 17x12 wheels). However, if the car is making boost, which clearly it is, you may just have huge drivetrain loss. What was your A/F, which fuel and what timing?
He's not new to tuning with boost but most of the high hp stuff he does is turbos. I know he's worked with more than a couple that are over the 1000rwhp mark.
As for the fuel stuff, the injectors are high impedance 80s at 43 psi I think and fuel pressure was at about 58psi at idle but other than that I have no idea and not sure if he changed it. Fuel was mostly 110 with a little left over 100 mixed in. With the 26psi boost and maxing the 80s, it's got to be making more power but I'm not sure how that would work if it was only firing 7 cylinders, if that's not the case then it's got to be loosing it through the drivetrain. If it's still at around 600 with the new plug wire, I'm going to point my finger at the shitiest converter ever, or at least shitiest for my combo, lol.
I really think the heads and converter are working together. From the way you explained it the converter is semi adequate. At least a lot more so than the heads.
Specifications:
Install Height: 1.820
Max. Valve Spring Lift: .690
Spring Pressure Closed: 150lbs
Spring Pressure Open: 382@.620 / 410@.680
Coil Bind: 1.100
Retainer Material: Titanium
Kit includes:
Livernois Motorsports Chrome Dual Valve Springs (16)
Livernois Motorsports Titanium Retainers (16)
Livernois Motorsports ID Valve Spring Locators (16)
Super 7 Locks (32)
Rubber Valve Seals (16)
No shims installed out of the box.
Cam is 246/250 .632/.635 on a 112+4
Install Height: 1.820
Max. Valve Spring Lift: .690
Spring Pressure Closed: 150lbs
Spring Pressure Open: 382@.620 / 410@.680
Coil Bind: 1.100
Retainer Material: Titanium
Kit includes:
Livernois Motorsports Chrome Dual Valve Springs (16)
Livernois Motorsports Titanium Retainers (16)
Livernois Motorsports ID Valve Spring Locators (16)
Super 7 Locks (32)
Rubber Valve Seals (16)
No shims installed out of the box.
Cam is 246/250 .632/.635 on a 112+4
I see two problems...but I'm not a boost expert, but just observations of what I've read about..
Those springs are getting blasted - 26psi boost and those pressures are not getting along well
Toss that massive cam on top of an already border line valve train for that boost, and you have a complete no go.
Lastly, that cam has too much overlap and you're just wasting your boost. 24 degrees I would think is just too much, that cam basically looks like an aggressive N/A camshaft. I think its wrong for the setup, but I maybe completely wrong
First place I would look is the valve train, and before I would run it hard on the street, make absolutely SURE that the valve train will handle it (call a valve train expert), because otherwise you run the risk of grenading the entire setup!
Specifications:
Install Height: 1.820
Max. Valve Spring Lift: .690
Spring Pressure Closed: 150lbs
Spring Pressure Open: 382@.620 / 410@.680
Coil Bind: 1.100
Retainer Material: Titanium
Kit includes:
Livernois Motorsports Chrome Dual Valve Springs (16)
Livernois Motorsports Titanium Retainers (16)
Livernois Motorsports ID Valve Spring Locators (16)
Super 7 Locks (32)
Rubber Valve Seals (16)
No shims installed out of the box.
Cam is 246/250 .632/.635 on a 112+4
Install Height: 1.820
Max. Valve Spring Lift: .690
Spring Pressure Closed: 150lbs
Spring Pressure Open: 382@.620 / 410@.680
Coil Bind: 1.100
Retainer Material: Titanium
Kit includes:
Livernois Motorsports Chrome Dual Valve Springs (16)
Livernois Motorsports Titanium Retainers (16)
Livernois Motorsports ID Valve Spring Locators (16)
Super 7 Locks (32)
Rubber Valve Seals (16)
No shims installed out of the box.
Cam is 246/250 .632/.635 on a 112+4
I'm not even sure they are a problem. I just threw that out there as a possibility but after researching it a little, it sounds like when valve float starts happening, it's pretty obvious and Jim didn't mention anything about that. It's weird because it seems to be running fine, it's just making a lot of boost and eating a lot of fuel to only put down in the 600rwhp range.
I'm not even sure they are a problem. I just threw that out there as a possibility but after researching it a little, it sounds like when valve float starts happening, it's pretty obvious and Jim didn't mention anything about that. It's weird because it seems to be running fine, it's just making a lot of boost and eating a lot of fuel to only put down in the 600rwhp range.
If it was too much overlap in the cam wouldn't the boost pressure be lower? Seems like that would be the case to me. My vote is converter & valve float.
Is there a dyno graph in here anywhere?
Is there a dyno graph in here anywhere?