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APS car overheating

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Old 06-12-2008, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
The Ron Davis radiators are some of the best, we have had great success with them.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...html?item=1228 Bob
Whoa..thats the most expensive radiator I've ever seen.
Old 06-12-2008, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by smokinHawk
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for your overheating problem if it was me i would move the intercooler, i am not a big fan of putting it by the radiator, i learned my lesson with the tti street kit, i had horrible IAT temps and it ran kindof hot.
since you have an iron block those are a bit harder to cool, so you need as much air as possible going to the radiator.
sure it looks nice and factory like, but your IAT temps will be higher then the need to be and your car is going to run hot.

I have a LS2 block and I am thinking of moving the intercooler to the front but my thinking is the kit should work as it is. I wonder how much heat the watercooled turbos are adding to the system
Old 06-12-2008, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by TNTramair
i think hes the only one of us running an iron block which could be contributing to his issue. i dont have any issues with it running hot (stock radiator, stock thermostat, stock water pump) but i havent run it with the A/C on yet in 98* weather either so i cant be positive i wont also.
i am running a LS2 block not a iron one.

and Keliente is having the same problems but not quite as bad. She is stock CI and 317 heads with a small cam
Old 06-12-2008, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by sciff5
Whoa..thats the most expensive radiator I've ever seen.
+ 1 I wonder how much better it is than a Griffin radiator?
Old 06-12-2008, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Darren P
+ 1 I wonder how much better it is than a Griffin radiator?
Hard to say, but Ron Davis is big in Nascar. They are a higher end radiator, you might get by with less though. Bob
Old 06-12-2008, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
Hard to say, but Ron Davis is big in Nascar. They are a higher end radiator, you might get by with less though. Bob
bob, is this a direct bolt in. like it has the little tabs for my fan sheroud?
Old 06-12-2008, 08:16 PM
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I think edelbrock is also making a better waterpump now for our cars.That might help also. I want to know what rad to get that will fit like stock one don't think there is that much room in there for deeper with the intercooler and stuff?? Also can a person put a pusher fan in front maybe? And you already said you were running water wetter. Are you fans for sure coming on?
Old 06-12-2008, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Darren P
+ 1 I wonder how much better it is than a Griffin radiator?
I have a griffin circle track radiator in my ls1 rx7. We'll see how it goes when I get the car up and running.
Old 06-13-2008, 12:02 AM
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Barnet, how much cooler will your water temps be with this $50 Evans Coolant I hear you talking about so much? BTW, because of what happened to your car, I already think its evil lol, j/k... no I'm not.
Old 06-13-2008, 07:43 AM
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After 9,000 miles on my APS set-up, I finally ran my car in the hot weather last weekend with AC and it did start to get hot on me. It ran warmer than usual but stayed put on the roadtrip to Norwalk, Ohio for Pinks All Out. Friday on the way back to the hotel with 4 people in the it started to get a lot hotter in traffic (with A/C). I was thinking about looking into improving the shrouds that block the air on the sides of the heat exchangers. It seems like there is nothing keeping air from exiting the sides of the radiator versus being forced through it. But I am also wondering if a larger radiator is needed now. The car has no problems below 90 degrees but on the hot days it seems to struggle to maintain temps.

I have the 160 thermostat, stock waterpump (no underdrive pulleys) and am running the dexcool/water mix. I did have to burp my system a lot after I got it all back together last fall and still check it once in a while as it seems low now and then.

I did play around with it in the hot weather last weekend and it ran hot just cruising in traffic, or after some wide open throttle blasts in 1st & 2nd gear. The temps stayed the same, which was good. But still hotter than it ran in the cooler weather. I will be watching this thread to see what else may need to happen as I want to keep my car a fun and reliable DD.
Old 06-13-2008, 07:52 AM
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back to the LT1 talk? will this really work will this really make a big enough difference. or should i just spend the 600 for the be cool. also do these aftermarket cools come with the tabs that hold my stock shroud on?
Old 06-13-2008, 08:00 AM
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and on Be Cool website. it says there rad only supports 700 horse. well that sucks.

bob. how direct fit is the one you sell?
Old 06-13-2008, 09:18 AM
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thats a bit surprising now that you say its an aluminum.
do you have an aftermarket temp gauge to tell what she is really doing?
Old 06-13-2008, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by smokinHawk
thats a bit surprising now that you say its an aluminum.
do you have an aftermarket temp gauge to tell what she is really doing?
were is the best palce to tap in at for this after market gauge. and you bought up a good point. the factory guage is not good in 99-02
Old 06-13-2008, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by smokinHawk
thats a bit surprising now that you say its an aluminum.
do you have an aftermarket temp gauge to tell what she is really doing?
no guage. I was logging on HPtuners
Old 06-13-2008, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Darren P
no guage. I was logging on HPtuners
i dont know if i would trust that 100% either.



the best place to tap it probably would be the other coolant plug on the head, as the driverside head has the stock coolant sensor so probably use the passenger side if available.
Old 06-13-2008, 11:14 AM
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unfortunately the aps kit uses that for the turbos water supply....
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Old 06-13-2008, 11:14 AM
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I have spent time logging my old PTK turbo set up and keep in mind the stock guage can be way off in regards to temp. I have seen anywhere from 8 to
14+ degrees difference from my logs to guessing where the guage is at.

Darrin, I would relo the intercooler and be done with it.

Glenn
Old 06-13-2008, 01:22 PM
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Um how is he supposed to relocate the intercooler? You could try delete the intercooler and just run alc injection.Some guys do that pretty successfully.

I think a combo of stuff might be needed. Better water pump like the edelbrock one and better rad and possibly some pusher fan in front? Not sure if there is room in front for one I don't have my kit on my car yet.
160 stat,fans coming on pretty much all the time the key is on ,water wetter...all that should do the job.

Be nice if APS was still on the boards.Peter used to be on here all the time and lately have not seen him at all. Would like his feedback on this stuff. Would like to know if the standard intake tubes have upgraded versions ready to buy yet. Maybe should be emailing APS directly the time difference for direct talking can be annoying.
Old 06-13-2008, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by smokinHawk
the best place to tap it probably would be the other coolant plug on the head, as the driverside head has the stock coolant sensor so probably use the passenger side if available.
I bet his passenger side head will read even a hotter temp. I have the stock plug in the driver side head, and the BS3 plug in the passenger side. By the time the water reachers the passenger side head, its already heated up the first head.


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