APS car overheating
06-11-2008, 10:09 PM
#23
10 Second Club
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Northwest side of Chicago
Posts: 3,677
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Im having the same issue probably because i have two huge trans coolers infront of my condensor. I think a bigger radiator is going to be your best bet. It will hold a lot more fluid and is designed to dissipate more heat. If you do different fluid or fans of water pump i think your going to nickel and dime yourself to death, the issue has to be the small ls1 radiator combined with double the hp the car was supposed to have.
06-12-2008, 12:04 AM
#24
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 625
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'd say thats pretty good.
06-12-2008, 06:01 AM
#28
On The Tree
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ocala, Florida
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bob, are you finding most with forced induction are having to go with an aftermarket radiator? I think it is a great idea, just wondered if you thought it was mandatory or not.
Of course, I am sure we need to first verify good working order of the thermostat, water pump, etc.
PS - Off topic - I was going to work, traveling down I-75 the other day and saw Don Gartlis out in his driveway doing a burnout in an old rail.....awesome sight.
Thanks, Rick
Of course, I am sure we need to first verify good working order of the thermostat, water pump, etc.
PS - Off topic - I was going to work, traveling down I-75 the other day and saw Don Gartlis out in his driveway doing a burnout in an old rail.....awesome sight.
Thanks, Rick
06-12-2008, 07:53 AM
#30
to the poster who posted
"Approximately 500F lower turbo temperatures. Eliminates the need for a turbo-timer, which allows the engine to run after the car is shut off in order to cool down the turbo and prevent oil and bearing damage.
Denser exhaust gasses drive the turbo turbine wheel more efficiently."
you want more heat IN the turbo.....and theres no way in hell a rearmount setup gives you denser gases and will drive the turbo more efficiently.id love to know where you copied that information from.
"Approximately 500F lower turbo temperatures. Eliminates the need for a turbo-timer, which allows the engine to run after the car is shut off in order to cool down the turbo and prevent oil and bearing damage.
Denser exhaust gasses drive the turbo turbine wheel more efficiently."
you want more heat IN the turbo.....and theres no way in hell a rearmount setup gives you denser gases and will drive the turbo more efficiently.id love to know where you copied that information from.
06-12-2008, 08:41 AM
#31
8 Second Club
iTrader: (40)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Raleigh,North Carolina
Posts: 1,861
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
to the poster who posted
"Approximately 500F lower turbo temperatures. Eliminates the need for a turbo-timer, which allows the engine to run after the car is shut off in order to cool down the turbo and prevent oil and bearing damage.
Denser exhaust gasses drive the turbo turbine wheel more efficiently."
you want more heat IN the turbo.....and theres no way in hell a rearmount setup gives you denser gases and will drive the turbo more efficiently.id love to know where you copied that information from.
"Approximately 500F lower turbo temperatures. Eliminates the need for a turbo-timer, which allows the engine to run after the car is shut off in order to cool down the turbo and prevent oil and bearing damage.
Denser exhaust gasses drive the turbo turbine wheel more efficiently."
you want more heat IN the turbo.....and theres no way in hell a rearmount setup gives you denser gases and will drive the turbo more efficiently.id love to know where you copied that information from.
To the OP, I am over in the Wilmington area, I could try to meet up with you and give you a hand in sorting this out. The heat has been killer here lately!
06-12-2008, 09:39 AM
#32
i know i had an issue with my car in similar fashion. but my car is n/a. but i had a big *** buddle in it that i couldnt get out and i had to burp it which i would highyl recomend against doing as u get coolant everywhere including yourself. im not saying its your prob but its always worth to check the easy stuff first.
06-12-2008, 09:52 AM
#33
DROP THE TALK ABOUT STS IN THIS THREAD or it will be removed.
-MODERATOR
for your overheating problem if it was me i would move the intercooler, i am not a big fan of putting it by the radiator, i learned my lesson with the tti street kit, i had horrible IAT temps and it ran kindof hot.
since you have an iron block those are a bit harder to cool, so you need as much air as possible going to the radiator.
sure it looks nice and factory like, but your IAT temps will be higher then the need to be and your car is going to run hot.
-MODERATOR
for your overheating problem if it was me i would move the intercooler, i am not a big fan of putting it by the radiator, i learned my lesson with the tti street kit, i had horrible IAT temps and it ran kindof hot.
since you have an iron block those are a bit harder to cool, so you need as much air as possible going to the radiator.
sure it looks nice and factory like, but your IAT temps will be higher then the need to be and your car is going to run hot.
06-12-2008, 12:02 PM
#34
Banned
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,990
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
DROP THE TALK ABOUT STS IN THIS THREAD or it will be removed.
-MODERATOR
for your overheating problem if it was me i would move the intercooler, i am not a big fan of putting it by the radiator, i learned my lesson with the tti street kit, i had horrible IAT temps and it ran kindof hot.
since you have an iron block those are a bit harder to cool, so you need as much air as possible going to the radiator.
sure it looks nice and factory like, but your IAT temps will be higher then the need to be and your car is going to run hot.
-MODERATOR
for your overheating problem if it was me i would move the intercooler, i am not a big fan of putting it by the radiator, i learned my lesson with the tti street kit, i had horrible IAT temps and it ran kindof hot.
since you have an iron block those are a bit harder to cool, so you need as much air as possible going to the radiator.
sure it looks nice and factory like, but your IAT temps will be higher then the need to be and your car is going to run hot.
06-12-2008, 12:27 PM
#35
one problem though Smokin, in order for him to do that he would need to purchase a new front mount and run all new intercooler pipes. cause of APS's design, we cant just move the intercooler we have.
06-12-2008, 12:40 PM
#36
TECH Resident
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Palestine (East Texas), Texas
Posts: 777
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The 93-96 LT1 Radiator is a cheap and effective step up. Just don't get the 97, it's smaller. With 5 minutes of work, it fits just like stock, and you won't have to worry about it interfering with your APS kit. The Be Cool and Griffin radiators take a bit more work to make fit, and are considerably bigger. They're also at least twice as much as a new LT1 rad. Then again, it's possible that the LT1 radiator isn't enough for your setup. IIRC, the 93-96 LT1 rad has a 1 3/8" thick core while 98-02 LS1 is only 7/8" thick.
06-12-2008, 01:05 PM
#37
relax...SmokinHawk is just suggesting to move it from out in from of the radiator cause the way the kit is designed they have the intercooler right up against and in front of the radiator. no need to get smart with him.
one problem though Smokin, in order for him to do that he would need to purchase a new front mount and run all new intercooler pipes. cause of APS's design, we cant just move the intercooler we have.
one problem though Smokin, in order for him to do that he would need to purchase a new front mount and run all new intercooler pipes. cause of APS's design, we cant just move the intercooler we have.
06-12-2008, 01:08 PM
#38
8 Second Club
iTrader: (40)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Raleigh,North Carolina
Posts: 1,861
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The 93-96 LT1 Radiator is a cheap and effective step up. Just don't get the 97, it's smaller. With 5 minutes of work, it fits just like stock, and you won't have to worry about it interfering with your APS kit. The Be Cool and Griffin radiators take a bit more work to make fit, and are considerably bigger. They're also at least twice as much as a new LT1 rad. Then again, it's possible that the LT1 radiator isn't enough for your setup. IIRC, the 93-96 LT1 rad has a 1 3/8" thick core while 98-02 LS1 is only 7/8" thick.
Is anyone else running hotter with the APS kit? If this is a trend, it would certainly be an intercooler covering the radiator issue.
06-12-2008, 01:15 PM
#40
I have a Modine 94 LT1 auto radiator for sale, it is way thicker than the LS1 rad. Great shape if anyone is wanting to swap one in. I just sold a LS1 manual rad, and it was tiny compared to the LT1 style. You really gain a bit more capacity with the LT1 rad.
Is anyone else running hotter with the APS kit? If this is a trend, it would certainly be an intercooler covering the radiator issue.
Is anyone else running hotter with the APS kit? If this is a trend, it would certainly be an intercooler covering the radiator issue.