Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

APS car overheating

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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 09:44 PM
  #21  
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**** this makes me feel better about my procharged car having trouble in the heat!

could always bend the airdam a little so its more like a scoop.
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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by sslateron
Switch to STS Turbo system.
great idea. Maybe I could put a flathead ford in as well
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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 10:09 PM
  #23  
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Im having the same issue probably because i have two huge trans coolers infront of my condensor. I think a bigger radiator is going to be your best bet. It will hold a lot more fluid and is designed to dissipate more heat. If you do different fluid or fans of water pump i think your going to nickel and dime yourself to death, the issue has to be the small ls1 radiator combined with double the hp the car was supposed to have.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 12:04 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Darren P
I can't run the A/C at all highway or setting still. With the heat on wide open on Saturday (98*day) it would stay between 205 and 212 turn the heat off and it went to 220 with the AC, forget it.
It only went to 220* with the A/C "on" in 98* heat????

I'd say thats pretty good.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 04:42 AM
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Originally Posted by needadvice
It only went to 220* with the A/C "on" in 98* heat????

I'd say thats pretty good.
I said that wrong. It went to 220 when I turned the heat off and went to 230+ with the AC on and I had to turn the heat back on
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Darren P
great idea. Maybe I could put a flathead ford in as well
That was a great comeback!!!
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 05:50 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
and for the same price you can get a nice turbo or hot parts setup
Yeah, but that wouldn't solve his overheating problem. Bob
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 06:01 AM
  #28  
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Bob, are you finding most with forced induction are having to go with an aftermarket radiator? I think it is a great idea, just wondered if you thought it was mandatory or not.
Of course, I am sure we need to first verify good working order of the thermostat, water pump, etc.

PS - Off topic - I was going to work, traveling down I-75 the other day and saw Don Gartlis out in his driveway doing a burnout in an old rail.....awesome sight.

Thanks, Rick
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 07:34 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by sslateron
Switch to STS Turbo system.
yeah, cause no ones ever had any problems with those systems
your posts are pretty much useless in this thread...thanks for playing though.

Last edited by TNTramair; Jun 12, 2008 at 08:30 AM.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 07:53 AM
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to the poster who posted
"Approximately 500F lower turbo temperatures. Eliminates the need for a turbo-timer, which allows the engine to run after the car is shut off in order to cool down the turbo and prevent oil and bearing damage.
Denser exhaust gasses drive the turbo turbine wheel more efficiently."
you want more heat IN the turbo.....and theres no way in hell a rearmount setup gives you denser gases and will drive the turbo more efficiently.id love to know where you copied that information from.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by TNTramair
yeah, cause no ones ever had any problems with those systems
your posts are pretty much useless in this thread...thanks for playing though.
Originally Posted by ddnspider
to the poster who posted
"Approximately 500F lower turbo temperatures. Eliminates the need for a turbo-timer, which allows the engine to run after the car is shut off in order to cool down the turbo and prevent oil and bearing damage.
Denser exhaust gasses drive the turbo turbine wheel more efficiently."
you want more heat IN the turbo.....and theres no way in hell a rearmount setup gives you denser gases and will drive the turbo more efficiently.id love to know where you copied that information from.
Yeah way to buy into the marketing crap without any firsthand knowledge. This guy already has an APS kit which is a far superior setup to the STS. I just read your post asking if the STS was the best FI for an LSX. I believe it is called " Newbie + boost". Before copying and pasting some crap from STS's website, you should look into how "great" those systems are. Actually go ahead and buy one, you can even get a used one on here for cheap, and then we will see how outdated the front mount turbo kits really are.
To the OP, I am over in the Wilmington area, I could try to meet up with you and give you a hand in sorting this out. The heat has been killer here lately!
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 09:39 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Darren P
I ran all the air out of it. I have added a little water to top it off but it is full. Is there another way to bleed it other than filling it up and bringing it to operating temp and addding water till it is full?
i know i had an issue with my car in similar fashion. but my car is n/a. but i had a big *** buddle in it that i couldnt get out and i had to burp it which i would highyl recomend against doing as u get coolant everywhere including yourself. im not saying its your prob but its always worth to check the easy stuff first.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 09:52 AM
  #33  
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DROP THE TALK ABOUT STS IN THIS THREAD or it will be removed.
-MODERATOR


for your overheating problem if it was me i would move the intercooler, i am not a big fan of putting it by the radiator, i learned my lesson with the tti street kit, i had horrible IAT temps and it ran kindof hot.
since you have an iron block those are a bit harder to cool, so you need as much air as possible going to the radiator.
sure it looks nice and factory like, but your IAT temps will be higher then the need to be and your car is going to run hot.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 12:02 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by smokinHawk
DROP THE TALK ABOUT STS IN THIS THREAD or it will be removed.
-MODERATOR


for your overheating problem if it was me i would move the intercooler, i am not a big fan of putting it by the radiator, i learned my lesson with the tti street kit, i had horrible IAT temps and it ran kindof hot.
since you have an iron block those are a bit harder to cool, so you need as much air as possible going to the radiator.
sure it looks nice and factory like, but your IAT temps will be higher then the need to be and your car is going to run hot.
so what is he suppose to do. run no intercooler. don't think i will do that. good choice, not.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Bird WS6
so what is he suppose to do. run no intercooler. don't think i will do that. good choice, not.
relax...SmokinHawk is just suggesting to move it from out in from of the radiator cause the way the kit is designed they have the intercooler right up against and in front of the radiator. no need to get smart with him.

one problem though Smokin, in order for him to do that he would need to purchase a new front mount and run all new intercooler pipes. cause of APS's design, we cant just move the intercooler we have.

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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 12:40 PM
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The 93-96 LT1 Radiator is a cheap and effective step up. Just don't get the 97, it's smaller. With 5 minutes of work, it fits just like stock, and you won't have to worry about it interfering with your APS kit. The Be Cool and Griffin radiators take a bit more work to make fit, and are considerably bigger. They're also at least twice as much as a new LT1 rad. Then again, it's possible that the LT1 radiator isn't enough for your setup. IIRC, the 93-96 LT1 rad has a 1 3/8" thick core while 98-02 LS1 is only 7/8" thick.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by TNTramair
relax...SmokinHawk is just suggesting to move it from out in from of the radiator cause the way the kit is designed they have the intercooler right up against and in front of the radiator. no need to get smart with him.

one problem though Smokin, in order for him to do that he would need to purchase a new front mount and run all new intercooler pipes. cause of APS's design, we cant just move the intercooler we have.

yes i know it wont be an easy fix, but a good one.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jmdale1984
The 93-96 LT1 Radiator is a cheap and effective step up. Just don't get the 97, it's smaller. With 5 minutes of work, it fits just like stock, and you won't have to worry about it interfering with your APS kit. The Be Cool and Griffin radiators take a bit more work to make fit, and are considerably bigger. They're also at least twice as much as a new LT1 rad. Then again, it's possible that the LT1 radiator isn't enough for your setup. IIRC, the 93-96 LT1 rad has a 1 3/8" thick core while 98-02 LS1 is only 7/8" thick.
I have a Modine 94 LT1 auto radiator for sale, it is way thicker than the LS1 rad. Great shape if anyone is wanting to swap one in. I just sold a LS1 manual rad, and it was tiny compared to the LT1 style. You really gain a bit more capacity with the LT1 rad.
Is anyone else running hotter with the APS kit? If this is a trend, it would certainly be an intercooler covering the radiator issue.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by smokinHawk
yes i know it wont be an easy fix, but a good one.
oh i know....but what a pain in the *** it will be lol.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by veee8
I have a Modine 94 LT1 auto radiator for sale, it is way thicker than the LS1 rad. Great shape if anyone is wanting to swap one in. I just sold a LS1 manual rad, and it was tiny compared to the LT1 style. You really gain a bit more capacity with the LT1 rad.
Is anyone else running hotter with the APS kit? If this is a trend, it would certainly be an intercooler covering the radiator issue.
i think hes the only one of us running an iron block which could be contributing to his issue. i dont have any issues with it running hot (stock radiator, stock thermostat, stock water pump) but i havent run it with the A/C on yet in 98* weather either so i cant be positive i wont also.
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