APS car overheating
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 625
Likes: 0
cars with A/C, clean your condensors. After about 2-3 years of driving it on the street it will get about 50% clogged with debris. Mine was about 90% clogged after 4 years, couldn't run my A/C in hot weather or it would go right into the red in 4-5 minutes in city driving. Cleaned it and the temp never goes near the 210 mark with A/C blasting in hot weather and traffic.
To the topic, it would be nice if Peter at APS would chime in and give a little feedback, it is quite hot in Austailia, do they have any issues?
It's the exterior air finning of both the AC condenser and radiator that needs to be thoroughly clean and clear of any debris.............if the exterior air finning is partially blocked then the engine cooling will be compromised. 
peter
peter
Good point Peter.
It all comes down to airflow through the radiator. Whether it is debris in the fins of the condensor or something blocking the radiator like a bag that gets sucked up in there. If you interrupt the airflow through the radiator, you are going to have cooling issues.
For my old turbo kit with two pusher fans and one puller, with the LG racing radiator (800 bucks) and running 100% water with two jugs of 40 below coolant additive, the car still over heated with the AC on in stop and go traffic. When I say over heated, I mean it would shift between 220 and 230 degree's. Sometimes even higher.
So I am not sure about throwing a bunch of money at the cooling system is the answer.
Darren, I would look at the intercooler and see if can be mounted up front. The cost of tubing would be less than a radiator, pump, and coolant route.
Remember Speed Inc has a similar kit in regards to the turbos being mounted in the same fashion, but their intercooler is out front and not where the APS one is. I haven't heard of INTMD8T overheating with an iron LT1 block.
Just my .02,
Glenn
It all comes down to airflow through the radiator. Whether it is debris in the fins of the condensor or something blocking the radiator like a bag that gets sucked up in there. If you interrupt the airflow through the radiator, you are going to have cooling issues.
For my old turbo kit with two pusher fans and one puller, with the LG racing radiator (800 bucks) and running 100% water with two jugs of 40 below coolant additive, the car still over heated with the AC on in stop and go traffic. When I say over heated, I mean it would shift between 220 and 230 degree's. Sometimes even higher.
So I am not sure about throwing a bunch of money at the cooling system is the answer.
Darren, I would look at the intercooler and see if can be mounted up front. The cost of tubing would be less than a radiator, pump, and coolant route.
Remember Speed Inc has a similar kit in regards to the turbos being mounted in the same fashion, but their intercooler is out front and not where the APS one is. I haven't heard of INTMD8T overheating with an iron LT1 block.
Just my .02,
Glenn
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
From: Fairview NC (near Charlotte)
Good point Peter.
It all comes down to airflow through the radiator. Whether it is debris in the fins of the condensor or something blocking the radiator like a bag that gets sucked up in there. If you interrupt the airflow through the radiator, you are going to have cooling issues.
For my old turbo kit with two pusher fans and one puller, with the LG racing radiator (800 bucks) and running 100% water with two jugs of 40 below coolant additive, the car still over heated with the AC on in stop and go traffic. When I say over heated, I mean it would shift between 220 and 230 degree's. Sometimes even higher.
So I am not sure about throwing a bunch of money at the cooling system is the answer.
Darren, I would look at the intercooler and see if can be mounted up front. The cost of tubing would be less than a radiator, pump, and coolant route.
Remember Speed Inc has a similar kit in regards to the turbos being mounted in the same fashion, but their intercooler is out front and not where the APS one is. I haven't heard of INTMD8T overheating with an iron LT1 block.
Just my .02,
Glenn
It all comes down to airflow through the radiator. Whether it is debris in the fins of the condensor or something blocking the radiator like a bag that gets sucked up in there. If you interrupt the airflow through the radiator, you are going to have cooling issues.
For my old turbo kit with two pusher fans and one puller, with the LG racing radiator (800 bucks) and running 100% water with two jugs of 40 below coolant additive, the car still over heated with the AC on in stop and go traffic. When I say over heated, I mean it would shift between 220 and 230 degree's. Sometimes even higher.
So I am not sure about throwing a bunch of money at the cooling system is the answer.
Darren, I would look at the intercooler and see if can be mounted up front. The cost of tubing would be less than a radiator, pump, and coolant route.
Remember Speed Inc has a similar kit in regards to the turbos being mounted in the same fashion, but their intercooler is out front and not where the APS one is. I haven't heard of INTMD8T overheating with an iron LT1 block.
Just my .02,
Glenn
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its actually on the site of summit part !!Just punch in the year and make and the brand you want and it will give you your choices!! I went with the Be Cool racing one with the fans and everthing BUT WATCH !!!because they shipped me the wronge rad in the right box and instead of tranny cooler bungs ,,,it was for and LTI camaro with coolant lines which i ran my tranny lines too and ended up running coolant/tranny fluid all threw my engine and tranny!!theres a post about it in the FI site
This is what i was thinking!! maybe not enough flow at ideal .Ide go with a Evans high flow water pump and some Evans coolant which if you read up on it, will shock you as to how much heat it disapates when compared to reg coolant and wont hurt the bearings and such if you ever blow a head gasket
Be nice if APS was still on the boards.Peter used to be on here all the time and lately have not seen him at all. Would like his feedback on this stuff. Would like to know if the standard intake tubes have upgraded versions ready to buy yet. Maybe should be emailing APS directly the time difference for direct talking can be annoying.
Peter
So Peter what is your take on this overheating problem? And are the new intake ducts available for the standard system and will they solve the closing shut problem I plan on running 15 to 18psi likely if can go that high on my 408 with standard turbos.
As for possible help on this issue I was thinking to buy high volume new ls1 edebrock water pump and may consider different rad. But wondering why most of these rads like be cool or whatever are rated like 400hp? This last paragraphy is directed at posters in this thread.
here ya go Actually ,,LOL I just got it in the mail today if anyones intrested in it!! Its listed in the sales sect.heres some pics
http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/f...nat/Be%20Cool/
http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/f...nat/Be%20Cool/
Can you fit a be cool or a ron davis with the aps kit? If so, it would be well worth it IMO to go with one of those. Especially for thos of us who will be driving in 100 degree heat this summer.
I did play around with it in the hot weather last weekend and it ran hot just cruising in traffic, or after some wide open throttle blasts in 1st & 2nd gear. The temps stayed the same, which was good. But still hotter than it ran in the cooler weather. I will be watching this thread to see what else may need to happen as I want to keep my car a fun and reliable DD.
+ 1 for a new rad. im intrested in this thread as ill be grabbing the aps soon...
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas Nevada
so did you solve your issue. I am having similiar problems, I have 408 iron block but with procharger on 2004 GTO. my temps reach 230-233 on the streets after like 30mins of driving and thats with the ac off. but on the freeway it reads fine 202-205. here is the thing though, I do have a ron davis radiator and aftermarket fans and I have compelety redone all my piping in order to lower the intercooler out of the way of the radiator. but I am running the stock waterpump. Just curious if you found out what your issue was.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
From: Fairview NC (near Charlotte)
so did you solve your issue. I am having similiar problems, I have 408 iron block but with procharger on 2004 GTO. my temps reach 230-233 on the streets after like 30mins of driving and thats with the ac off. but on the freeway it reads fine 202-205. here is the thing though, I do have a ron davis radiator and aftermarket fans and I have compelety redone all my piping in order to lower the intercooler out of the way of the radiator. but I am running the stock waterpump. Just curious if you found out what your issue was.
I have not messed with it at all
I still watch it on hot days but for the most part, runs fine.